2006 Exige S

I was doing an all-round spanner check on the suspension and noticed that one of my Nitron shocks was able to easily rotate around its axis. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tmfgF0hzCs



All of the other three have a small bit of cushioned movement side to side, but nowhere near this much. I popped the front shocks off to compare, and hidden behind the bearing spacer/colett things was missing o-rings from the ‘loose’ shock. I presume these are just to avoid dirt ingress really, but they have a secondary benefit of preventing that rotational movement which I’m sure has probably contributed to the odd clunk or rattle whilst in use.



I’ve got some generic o-rings that I can drop in, but not too impressed from a set of not particularly cheap shocks! I’ve sent a note through to Nitron, not to complain as such - as it’s not a huge deal in the grand scheme of things and I don’t like confrontation, but to check that for some weird reason this isn’t intentional.







There’s some sort of trace of assembly lube on the spacers/bearing - any ideas if I should be repacking this with something else on assembly? I’m assuming the forum can help before Nitron get back in touch :slight_smile:

I avoid adding lubricants to the o rings. it attracts dust and dirt to stick…

The side spacers are normally a slight interference fit, Are the ones on yours? I always test the rotation when installing then to check the rings are fitted, But never found any missing.

Cheers Dave, I gave the bearings a good wipe down and rotated them all through their axis’ to make sure I got any grit out. There’s still a fine film of what I assume is some kind of assembly lube so I’ll just leave them alone I think and refit. If Nitron tell me otherwise I can always revisit.

The side spacers are definitely an interference fit, took a bit of persuasion to get out/back in again. I’ve had shocks from other brands in the past which would literally fall out if not cable tied in for transit, these certainly weren’t like that so it’s unlikely they ‘fell out’ somewhere in distribution.

Had all four shocks have had the same degree of movement I probably wouldn’t have thought twice on it - but as it was just one, seemed worthy of investigation. No harm done.

Nitron changed the design of the side spacers a couple of years ago for this very reason! They made them a deliberate interference fit to stop them falling out during assembly, it was amazing how many people lost the o ring fitting the shocks to the car!!!

Nitron just got back in touch, new set of o-rings (with spares) on its way out to me now. They said they will include ‘fitting grease’… I’m guessing a little sachet of red lithium type stuff.

Good service if nowt’ else! If there’s a sticker in the envelope too then they get extra brownie points

Great result - and good service from Nitron :slight_smile: On that subject, have you ever ordered anything from MonkeyWrenchRacing in the States? Much to my delight, they throw in a few American candies into the box when they send it - it’s almost worth ordering a few things just to get the sweets, lol!

Haha no I haven’t, but have eyed up a few things before.

Tegiwa in the UK are great for the occasional harribo or sometimes even a keyring!

I have! Great sweets and a decent company to deal with

We should compile a list of great companies that give you unexpected treats as little perks! :wink:

Frantic few days of car stuff, but in between all of this my new exhaust system arrived. I made a few posts some time ago saying that I wanted to avoid the ‘off the shelf’ options and instead pursue something custom from a local fabricator. As keen eyes might notice, I got a 2bular from Jim instead.

I’ve wanted a new manifold/cat for a while as I’ve had a bit of a rattle and I feel like it has been pegging my car back a little bit on the performance stakes. Charge cooler has raised my ceiling a little bit and hopefully given a reliability margin, but the exhaust is (probably) holding back the ultimate performance. The big concern is the not-OEM cat, my car has clearly collapsed the original cat in the past and looks like it got a pattern part as a replacement, it’s of unknown quality and the SC cars are sort of known for blowing cats away with lots of track use.

My main issue was that after lots of ‘interested’ parties, I couldn’t get anyone to actually follow through on sorting me out. I got tired in the end, had been doing loads of research and just decided that the R&D and dyno time that 2bular has put in over the years was worth the potential downsides - and figured I should make up my own mind about 2bular.

I think it’s fair/reasonable to say that 2bular have a bit of a reputation for lengthy lead times so I’ll address that in the name of neutrality. In short I was promised a system within 7 days (was listed as “In stock” on the website) but it turned out being 3 weeks and it arrived the day before my trackday. In 2bular terms this is practically next day delivery, but still you absolutely cannot rely on getting one in a hurry!

As for the product itself, it looks really good:

The system is actually pretty good value for money. Jim includes all new gaskets, fixings and even a pre-cat lamda sensor - so that’s probably the best part of £100 there straight away. The custom quotes I was discussing were all £2k+ for Manifold/Cat. After researching the market a fair bit, I’m happy to say that I feel Jim’s prices are very fair.

I decided not to fit before the trackday, with only 12 hours to resolve any potential fitment issues I didn’t want to be stressing myself out - plus I sort of want to dyno it before I kick the car in again to see how AFRs are looking. My current system did have a bit of a rattle that I was nervous about though, hence sort of wanting to rush the 2bular in time for Blyton (later turned out to the cone/donut gasket, and it held for long enough so no harm done).

On Sunday morning after Blyton I had an early start, so got to work on wrapping the cat elbow:

I spoke to Jim about heat management beforehand as the OEM manifold heatshields won’t fit, nor the factory elbow shield. Jim explained that some people wrap the lot, some people go ceramic, but many people leave it alone. Clearance to the inside of the clam is significant (and the clam has a heatshielded lining anyway) and the only place that comes dangerously close is the aforementioned elbow. I may revisit this and ceramic coat the manifold, but for now I’ll proceed and monitor with the elbow wrapped.

The manifold and cat would be mated up to the 2bular backbox which I already had on the car, so wasn’t expecting fitment issues. I Did buy some fresh rubbers as the old ones had been strained to force the backbox to fit my old pattern part cat section:

Manifold went on fine, I had to remove the heatshield above the rear engine mount but I revisited this later by modifying it a bit.

The install stalled here for a bit because my backbox slipjoint (female) was marginally too small, just from how it’s been clamped to the slightly undersized OEM cat in the past. I sorted a tool mid week and that was an easy fix (needed to expand it by 1mm at the most).

Everything else fitted up fine, a minor criticism would be that the lambda sensor pre-cat is angled in such a way that clearance to the bootfloor heatshield is very tight, it could have been rotated slightly towards the front of the car where there’s loads of clearance - but it’s not a big deal, and it fits - just :slight_smile:

I dry fitted the backbox and got the usual slipjoint leak, so a few more adjustments and some assembly paste later and it’s now sealed.

The car is still up on stands just sorting some other bits and pieces out, and the weather sucks - so no road testing yet. It sounds pretty good sat in the garage though, obviously the backbox is unchanged and that influences most of the sound but it’s certainly gained some depth to the sound and goes some way towards drowning out the sewing machine effect of the 2zz without being obnoxiously loud!

I modified the engine mount heatshield by chopping off the trailing edge of it, then re-attaching it with some rivets to gain 10mm or so of clearance.

In summary I am happy with the system delivered, it feels well made and fitment is good - many off the shelf “bolt on” systems really do stretch the definition of “bolt on” and require some degree of modification but this pretty idiot proof. I’m also confident that I’ve bought a setup that is well suited to the car and my goals for the car, Jim has gone through many iterations of the 4-1 setup and each one thoroughly tested, I have no doubts that once I sort out an ECU/Map that the gains will be significant. If I’d have gone custom, I’m sure I could have found somebody to match or even beat the workmanship of the welding etc, but any attempt to produce something well matched to the supercharged 2zz in the first attempt would be guess work at best.

I do sympathise for people who have to wait months for a 2bular system, and for those that have issues with quality control etc - but really Jim seems to have the best offering on the UK market, so you need to decide whether or not you can afford the time, effort and testing to get something done custom. I thought I had the patience for that, but I was wrong.

[mention]Fonzey[/mention] do you have any higher resolution pictures if the flange on the manifold?

Might be the light or just the photo but this bit looks rough/poorly finished.

No higher res pics but can probably blow up the original of that one tomorrow for a closer look.

I know what you mean John, the flange face is as flat/smooth as can be - I don’t really know much about welding but I think it’s just where the weld has penetrated through and has been ground back hence the discoloured bit. The innards are all pretty nicely polished and are bang on the same measurements as the exhaust ports on the engine, unlike the OEM manifold which is 10mm narrower on each port.

The welding aesthetically isn’t perfect, which is sort of what I was getting at - I know welders who can do nicer work than this, so I really disagree with the #weldporn movement when it comes to 2bular, but I suppose I can only really judge it on how long it lasts and how it performs for that time.

[mention]Fonzey[/mention] - my manifold and sports cat arrived after a few months of waiting and I share your thoughts. To be clear, I am extremely happy with the product and the company. It does what I expected it to do and in that respect I couldn’t be happier. I was expecting the delayed timescales so I don’t mind about that.

Would I order from Jim again? Absolutely. Works great. Sounds great. Does exactly what I hoped it would. The manifold design has been proven to work - and most other products you’re either ordering a custom ‘best guess’ design or something that is only backed up by manufacturer’s claims and anecdotal ‘it feels better’ comments.

Looks good - I have the 2bular manifold and sports cat (been on car for a few years now) and I always had good service from Jim, albeit like everyone else - delayed delivery. I now have the H111 twin exit rear box, as I wanted that look which Jim doesn’t do.
Interested in what you are thinking on ECU/remap - I am very close to pulling the trigger on EMU black and map by H111 (as I have their 280s kit). I did contact BOE in the states, but sending my ECU there seems too much, and as Greg knows the setup, I would hope the EMU solution is likely the right one for my car

Almost certainly will be the EMU Black for me, couple of reasons really - one they’re being actively worked on by H111 and RRR Engineering and I always like to be involved in an area of ‘active development’, and I’ve also got a couple of good friends locally back from my Subaru days who are EMU dealers/mappers so I’d always have somebody close at hand to help troubleshoot and/or tweak the map if I make some minor changes.

My first goal is to see what the 260 Lotus ECU can handle itself. Heard/read so many conflicting stories so I just want to find out for myself. If it makes no extra power on the Lotus ECU but the AFRs remain ‘safe’ then I at least know I can enjoy the car for a bit for the time being. Even if it does run safe and maybe even make a bit of power, I’ll still get the ECU sorted eventually - just want to know what sort of timescales I’m on!

I have Croft booked on 3rd July, so really would like to get it dyno checked before then. If it did show as being dangerously lean on that run, I probably wouldn’t have time to fix it before Croft so I could see the OEM system going back on for the trackday :laughing:

Ohh I hope not… yes… there are many stories on the 260 map… but I don’t think it allows for charge cooling ?

Best of luck with finding a dyno quickly, so you can enjoy croft !

Just as a vote of confidence, when I got my adapter cable sorted out properly, the EMU Black system has been really good on mine (NA though). Very simple to customise bits and bobs, plus running a Wideband lambda to keep things in check…

Beautiful pipework. What is it about shiny exhausts that excites us all?

My findings from the 260 map are that it didn’t gain anything from adding the charge cooler, but it didn’t do any harm either. I have seen 260 cars though do very well on their standard ECU by just adding 2bular kit, but that’s just in the context of ‘headline’ figures rather than the full story. Really don’t know which way to call it, but since first pulling the trigger on the charge cooler I’ve accepted that an ECU/Map will be coming eventually, so it’s not an unexpected expense when it does come.

Great news. I plan to go wideband too for mine.