They’re some serious ‘speed holes’. Just think of the weight saving 
Things I learned on my S1:
Laughed at point 3.
I am assuming you are all patching behind where the hole has worn rather than filling the hole? ( oh matron?! )
Cheers Deggles, this may be a good opportunity to work on my fibreglass repair skills on somewhere out of sight .
[mention]andybond[/mention] I plan to patch behind the holes to give that crucial extra millimetre of clearance. For the headlamp “bulge” I can now get a nice view on how much clearance there actually is between it and the headlight itself thanks to the new access view port I have.
I’ll probably trim a bit more of the bulge back and then patch as close to the headlight cluster as I can. I think the reason I destroyed the liners and didn’t touch the clam itself is because the added weight of my CC pipes marginally pushes down on the arch liner and probably means it’s a couple of mm closer to the tyre than it would normally be - so it’s served nicely as an early warning system.
you absolutely need a stiffer anti roll bar to run lower ride heights, as will said these liners are disposable items when running lower ride heights on track, I gave up replacing mine and just ran with the holes with no bad effect I found.
I also ended up running much stiffer front springs when I moved to 46mm nitrons and even running at 105mm (with passenger and driver) I would only get the odd hit onto the bottom of the headlamp bucket.
What springs did you run [mention]ade[/mention] ?
Stiffer ARB is certainly on the radar now, was something I’d never even considered beforehand as I really liked the balance of the car and didn’t want to mess with it for the sake of tuning out a bit of roll. This weekend chucked that on its head completely.
650F 800R springs to mind, but you absolutely need 46mm nitrons for springs that stiff, I’ll look and see if I can find the order details when I bought them, still very compliant on the road as well, I was amazed how good they were
Wow that is stiff!
Mine are 450/600 so a good bit softer, but I like everything about them so far aside from on track (annoyingly 
) so I’d be really reluctant to go any stiffer on those for now.
Any recommended ARBs to upgrade to ?
The EP 7/8th one seems to come up in a lot of searches for the best road car compromise but I’m sure all of the 1" bars are much of a muchness. Maybe?!
I think the most important thing is to make sure its not mounted to the chassis but uses the wishbone pickup point…
I used an adjustable 3x stiffer roll bar, maybe elise parts I don’t remember, installed it within 2 months of buying the car and then ignored it, was also set to full stiff. On a wet day, I did release one side to removed it from being used but only if it was going to be wet all day, seemed to work well to allow the extra roll in the wet.
Soemthing like that?
Similar, but not as complex, it is sadly too long ago to remember exactly what I bought
Arch liner repairs under way tonight, picked up some Bostik Flashband roofing stuff. Self adhesive, starts very flexible and ‘sort of’ sticky, then leave it a bit and it cures to make for a really strong bond. Impressive stuff.
Started off with the back side/top of the arch liner:
Then sandwiched it with a strip from the wheel-side of the damage:
I manipulated it to create an outwards bulge where the hole is, and since it’s cured that bulge has sort of solidified a bit - so not only is the hole patched, but clearance will be marginally better than before.
Similar story on the front panel:
Great stuff really, pretty cheap - got enough for a tenner to probably last me 5 years worth of trackdays assuming I destroy at least one liner each time
Do bear in mind that fitting a stiffer front arb is going to change the handling. On cornering this will promote greater weight transfer onto the outside rear wheel and induce understeer.
You may be better increasing spring rates all round if you want to keep the balance as-is. A modest increase won’t necessarily create a significantly harsher ride on the road and, in any case, this could be mitigated by adjusting damping rates.
Another consideration is that a stiffer front arb may not be compliant enough for wet conditions, even on its softest setting.
I too have now bought some of that stuff 
Yes I think it’s clear to me now that this is always going to be a case of juggling compromises, so I’ll just take it one change at a time until I’m happy. I’ve spoken to somebody who’s spent a lot of time around S2 based cars driving them rather quickly on track and his summary was essentially that an ARB will assist in the ‘arch liner’ issues and will probably offer a higher level of ultimate grip if the car is setup correctly around the ARB but ultimately the feeling of weight transfer (roll) will be reduced and the car may initially feel harder to drive as a result. If/when I do go for a stiffer ARB, I’ll get the “least stiff” available and work from there, in the grand scheme of things they’re not horrendously expensive and easy to remove/swap around - so it would give me options to experiment when the time comes.
Speaking of incremental changes, I got another [mention]seriouslylotus[/mention] care package through this morning.
I’m really keen to get the riser plates fitted but it’s looking like an utter bugger of a job… so less looking forward to the process! I talked about perceived bumpsteer on the road a few pages back, and this should go some way towards mitigating that. If I do settle on a ~ 120/130 ride height then this is right in the ballpark for the riser plate according to theory.
My bleed nipples are a bit crusty, so got some of those too for my next bleed, and got some more arch liner clips… because you can never have too many!
Ill be following your ARB progress with interest. I have bought the tape to seal my already slightly destroyed arch liners ( pre my ride height drop )
I assume the plates are for the steering rack?
What spring rates are you running BTW?
Yep steering rack riser plates, needs some intimate footwell time so really not looking forward to that. 
Spring rates are 450/600 on the Clubsports according to me booklet… 
I have a 7/8 ARB on mine… weirdly, it also seemed to help ‘dive’ under braking. Mine is more of road car now than track beast (per my thread) so I have a fast road geo rather than the ‘Randy’ one I had before - that ride height was 110F/115R from memory - but I bashed the front constantly, so its now 115F. The rake on the car helped to eliminate understeer for sure, but of course you then had to be careful of a light rear (oooeerrr). I found you could adjust to that using the weight transfer on turn in…
