2006 Exige S

Happy tax day! Today SORN is over and I’m now back on the road, sort of.

I took the car out for petrol and that’s about it, the front toe angle despite a few DIY attempts to straighten it out is still all over the place so I can’t really drive the car with any real enthusiasm. I’ll also reserve any judgement on the new suspension until I’ve got a good setup sorted.

I did have a couple of ‘pulls’ up to the business end of the rev range to remind myself how it felt, feels pretty good - much the same as it did before really which is good as it means I didn’t break anything. As I expected the charge cooler has not really added any benefit to the perceived “on-the-road” performance but I’m sure this will come into its own once I put some laps in (hopefully soon!).

Car got a wash, was nice to clean the dust off.

I’ll see if I can get the front toe tracked in somewhere next week to free me up for a longer/more enthusiastic drive. My tinkering is not concluded yet, got a couple other things I want to address but nothing that will require lengthy time off the road etc. Just enough to keep me out of trouble :slight_smile:

Great news. Just waiting for a decent day and and empty diary to give mine a run out.

I’ve fallen behind on updates a little bit, so will post an update up-to today for now, then will compile the today update a bit later.

Car was road worthy but front geo was on the piss, so took it down to a local tyre place for a £25 alignment. The lads really take their time over it and in fairness I think they do a good job - just don’t have the gear for a full four wheel setup/corner balancing etc.

They got it driveable and allowed me to get a few miles done just to shakedown everything else. Car running well, happy days.

With my geo and dyno day coming up I replaced a few more consumables to service the car.

Air filter up for the TRD airbox first:

Then something I’ve been debating all winter. I posted on a few forums (including here) about the condition of my ignition coils. They’ve got obvious burn marks on the outside of their insulators which just didn’t seem right to me. The general consensus was that they’re fine, but I was having sleepless nights so I chucked some new ones in:

I lathered them up with dielectric grease to assist with insulating, will keep an eye on this set.

Finally I broke a rule I’ve tried to enforce on myself which is never to take on a “new” job when I’ve got a deadline… and I wish I stuck to my rule now.

I’ve had a tiny oil weep on the car since I bought it, barely noticeable and it doesn’t drop enough oil to register on the dipstick… it just collects between the timing cover and sump and every now and then the side of the sump gets a bit damp from it. It’s never even leaked enough to drip down onto the undertray or floor… so that should have been a back burner job? Right?

I was convinced (and still am) that it’s just the timing cover gasket at the bottom - as that looks like that’s where it’s collecting. I’d been asking around to see if it was possible to remove the timing cover with the engine and clam in situ. It’s hard to gauge from being laid on the floor so I’d like to hear of a first hand tale before starting it myself. In the meantime though I figured I’d pick up a new crank seal and maybe do that, as that sits right above the apparent location of the leak and could be an easy fix. Easy. Right?

Crank pulley off:

Calling on my inner-Dexter, it’s clear there’s a circular pattern of oil - whether the turbulent air from the belt whizzing round has just picked up the oil from the suspected timing cover leak below, or whether the actual crank seal was the root cause - I’m still not sure. Either way, crank seal is inexpensive so why not change that now to rule it out and come back to the timing cover later if needed?

Unfortunately at this point I regretted taking this on. The crank pulley had some odd markings on it, some I suspect are normal wear/tear but others I was less sure about.

There’s quite a deep groove caused by the old seal, hard to imagine rubber on metal can do this - but with the heat/RPMs involved who knows. The dimple though is something else, I’m fairly sure I didn’t cause it during removal - so was this the cause of the leak?! This left me in a bit of a pickle… I had one working day before I was due to drive 130 odd miles for geo and dyno and I really wasn’t sure about putting this pulley back on.

With options and time limited, I picked up the phone and ordered one from Toyota. I really don’t want to talk about how much it was, so let’s leave it there :cry:

I cleaned up the engine to help identify any subsequent leaks:

New seal was fitted with a smear of RTV on its outer surface, then left overnight to cure.

Whilst there I also found the idler pulley to be a bit rattly, with a bit of play on it. Luckily these are a standard fitment so cheap as chips from motorfactors, but I couldn’t get one in time so that’ll come later. The belt runs straight and true so it’s not urgent.

Nervously I cranked it over the following day and watched for leaks. What I absolutely could not afford was to actually cause a worse problem with a badly fitted seal so I really did take my time with it, even making a tool to push it in nice and square.

First impressions looked good, bone dry after coming up to temp in the garage. The following day I took it out for 40 miles or so and inspected again once home… still dry. More updates to come, I don’t expect to have fixed it (still suspecting the timing cover) but the early signs look good that I’ve at least not made it worse :laughing:

Next update will cover todays Dyno/Geo session - just need to collate the info / graphs etc first as I didn’t pick any up whilst there.

Excellent progress on the oil leak.

Did you notice any difference to the pull of the engine or smoothness with the new coils?

The only thing I can really comment on is the cold start of the car, very occasionally before it would stumble a little bit if I gave it some revs from cold whilst on idle (when moving it’s not noticeable) and it’s not done that since I put the coils in… but then it only happened rarely so I can’t be sure it’s ruled out yet!

My car is certainly pulling well at the moment, at least it feels so. More on that later though!

Is it later yet?

#impatient

Just wrote a reply out, clicked Preview and my login had timed out… so the draft was lost :laughing:

Give me another half hour…

OK I’ll do an update, might just need to edit it later to add some stuff that’s missing. I’ve been waiting for some dyno graphs to post up, I neglected to take any copies whilst there so Dan is going to send me some over next time he’s in the dynocell… not nagged him because he’s a busy boy :slight_smile:

I was booked in to see Dan “first thing” Monday, which was a bloody stupid idea. M1 on Monday morning in an Exige, in the rain… pretty miserable!

Arrived and Dan wasted no time getting the kettle on whilst we got the car ready for geo.

As expected/hoped it wasn’t a million miles out - I’d not touched toe/camber at the rear so it was just a case of sorting front toe out and ride heights. Even the ride height didn’t need much adjustment, but Dan did notice that my NS Front was carrying a bit too much camber (as OS Front was maxed out with no shims) so we added a shim back into the NS to even them out at approx 1.3 deg.

The overall car weight was a pleasant surprise. This was before adjustment so only the headline figure is really relevant:

I calculated the net gain of the charge cooler being 13kg so to think this car was a sub-900kg car stock is nice to know. I’ve been assuming it was close to the wikipedia figure of 930kg (since I do have carpets, AC and pig iron wheels) but I can only assume that’s for a black dash car with all the extra gubbins in it.

It’s good to know that I’m a set of forged wheels away from being sub 900 again, but I’ve decided in the meantime I need to lose 3kg bodyweight to get it back under a tonne with me inside. Anybody know where I can find a carbon fibre burger? :laughing:

Once the suspension was sorted, it was Dyno time. As said I don’t have the graphs for this yet and my memory on the figures is starting to haze over, so might have to retro-edit later.

After warming the car up, we did three “power runs” and a “test the charge cooler” run in which the car was held at highish RPM for a bit before doing a WOT pull right at the end. The results can be summarised as follows:

  • All runs within 1bhp of each other
  • IAT’s didn’t exceed 26 degrees and recovered back to their 16 degree tick-over temp very quickly each time
  • AFRs bang on the money
  • Headline figure 255bhp ATF / 216bhpish ATW. Torque I’ve forgotton.

My biggest regret of the winter is not getting a dyno run done before I took the car apart. You can probably ignore any of the following comparisons if you’re a true scientist, but working with what I’ve got I can make some conclusions.

First up, the headline figure. I did not expect any power gains from the charge cooler, I was told by a few people that the 260 map responded really well to intercooling/charge cooling upgrades and that I could maybe make a bit of peak power out of it - but I never really expected it. I have however seen dyno readouts from other 260 cars that have made comfortably into the 270s, I’m not dismissing those or diminishing their numbers I’m just aware that all cars, dynos and days are different. I’ll talk more about the headline figure and my next objectives later.

Second up IATs, they were amazing! Again I’ve got no dyno comparison but I do have a road comparison from some tests I did last year.

Dyno pulls: 8degree ambient

(first run is warmup, second run is the “abuse the CC” run, third and fourth are power runs with the final power run missing because I took the phone to make a video)

Peak average around 25degrees, settling very quickly each time down to the 16 degree “baseline” for tickover.

Road pulls: 12 degree ambient:

Peaking over 40 degrees, never really settling down to the original “baseline” of 21/22 degrees for off-boost driving

I think it’s fair to say the charge cooler is a bit of a monster, and that those gains are excellent. The heat soak element is only half of the story, the fact that peak temps are almost halved is just crazy, this should reduce the parasitic losses on the supercharger nicely as it’ll be so much easier to meet the boost target. Really looking forward to logging a trackday too.

I may need to edit this section later, but we were able to compare my graphs against a legit 260 cup car that was on the standard intercooler. Obviously different day, different car but still yielded some interesting comparisons. This particular car made 268bhp(something like that) but when we overlaid the curves, mine was making more power all the way through the range and only got pipped in the final 500 rpm or so. The torque graph showed even bigger gains (to my car) in the mid range. Oh, the 260 Cup car also lost 5-10 bhp PER RUN when doing back to backs!

I’m really happy with how the day went, the car feels very quick to me currently - so if it is “only” making 255bhp then that does give me a bit more ceiling for cheap-ish improvements. If I’d have dyno’d at 280bhp (for example) I’d be at my ceiling already, and I’d take no pleasure from the higher figure.

Whilst spending the day messing around with the ODB reader and logging the various info, I came across something. When at WOT, my Throttle Opening % (at the manifold) is reading 78%. This initially meant nothing to me (who’s to say the ECU is even measuring a linear 0-100% scale?!), but then I stumbled across an old post on forum with this information in it about the Exige S maps:

220 = run on 315 injectors with throttle percentage of 67%
240 = run on 440 injectors with a throttle percentage of 78%
260 = also runs on 440 injectors with a fully opening throttle 100%

Suddenly that 78% figure started to seem a little bit coincidental, no?

I don’t for a moment thing that I’m running the 240 map on my car, the 255bhp figure should be evidence of that alone but I’ve also spent plenty of time on track with 260 Cup cars and I’ve had no issue holding straight line pace with them, I know that’s hardly scientific - but the car just feels too quick for that.

There’s also the 255 map that is floating around, I don’t know what the throttle limits were for that though and I’m struggling to find any info on it other than it was apparently crap.

I’m fairly certain I’ve got the 260 ECU and that the 78% thing is just an anomoly, but I need to confirm it one way or the other so I’ve asked for some of the 260 owners that I know to take some similar readings, but none are currently armed with an ODB device. Alterntively Oakmere Lotus have told me they can plug in and tell me one way or the other, but that’s another day off work and ~200 mile journey I can do without this month!

If there are any readers/lurkers here with a 260 ECU (or 220 or 240 tbh, it would be good to compare notes) then please feel free to contribute :slight_smile:

Once I put that to bed, I’ve got a couple of options for trying to untap a bit more power:

  • If I don’t have a 260 ECU, then I should certainly try and source one… might be easier said then done…
  • If I do have 260 and still want a bit more, then it’s time to go aftermarket. Really liking the look of the EMU Black ECU that a few people have fitted recently.

Happy days anyway, car is now fully ready for use - time to get some track days booked I think.

Oh, and to add - Dan @ HPE is great, a fantastic contribution to our ‘community’ and is certainly somebody I will use more of. His Honda work is well known/established but there’s not much he doesn’t know about the Lotus cars and engine tuning in general - so well worth a chat if you’re considering some outside help with a project.

Great write up. I am glad Dan sorted things for you.

I need to work out why my car is 25.5kgs heavier than yours. I am only a cable throttle car and not a black dash …

What kit did you use to monitor IATs?

I am curious about the 255 map as well , as that was my cars claimed output. The map was crap though!

Cheers Andy.

How much petrol did you have? Even so - at I think petrol is something like 0.75kg per litre at room temperature so I’d need to be on absolute fumes compared to you being absolutely brimmed for that to account for it. I had about 1/3rd tank I think.

You’ve got lighter wheels too… so that net difference is probably closer to 35kg! Strange one… scales calibration out?

It was Dans scales!

I had around 80% fuel. I have a MY2010 rear wing but that wont be 30KGs! Its best not be!

Mine is a touring pack , could that be it?

Mine is touring pack too mate, that’s all the carpets n’ jazz I think.

There’s possibly a couple of generational things, stuff like window wipers - I think they actually went lighter when they went from windy windows to leccy… but by grams not KGs!

I’d say fuel probably makes up for half that difference to be fair. Spoiler maybe a few KG as it is a big old unit compared to the pre-2010 one that I have.

Oh, something that could be a big chunk - my roof isn’t a real one. It’s one of Jon Seals, not like a motorsport special but it’s not lined currently and it might be a little lighter in construction, not sure?

How many pound coins you got under the seat? :smiley:

I have leccy windows as well.
Fuel - with you on that , plus the roof and spoiler. Ill settle for that.

I have fresh air under me seat. The lotus has liberated every last pound making it run right!

:laughing: :laughing:

Just popped out for bog roll and hand sanitiser, thought I’d log the journey.

This is a similar route to my last year tests of IAT on the road, except a part of the route was closed so I truncated it to just the bit where I can do the WOT pulls.

What are you using for these logs?

Oh yeah, you asked that earlier…

Bluetooth ODBII reader connected to the Torque Pro app on Android. Logs to CSV, then I tidy it up and graph it in Excel later.

If you’re an iOS person - alternatives do exist, but I think you need to use a wifi adapter rather than bluetooth.

My non OEM ECU blocks the ODB2 stuff.

Ill have to get a logging cable to do it …

That certainly all looks very interesting, what gave you the idea it was a 260 map? Was it fitted by Lotus?
You are right about the throttle opening, this was how my car was the first UK car to get 100% throttle and ~260hp
You have seen exactly what my car did when I fitted the charge cooler, much better midrange torque, I think most of this was produced by the reduction of parasitic losses as the charge cooler flows better than the air to air one.
good to see your car is nice and light, mine finally weight about 875kg (half a tank 30 litres of fuel), but that still had AC, charge cooler (2 pumps) accusump (the bigger one) 315mm discs all round and laminova gearbox oil cooler. It however had no interior left apart from the dash, wind up windows and a large spattering of carbon fibre!

Cheers Ade

Two things suggest it’s a 260 upgrade car:

1 - It was fitted by the supplying trader (so not Lotus), he took the car in as a standard 220 and upgraded it to assist with sale. He sourced pump (confirmed as the 260 cup Denso hiflow model when I took it out a few weeks ago…) and some DW injectors - I THINK 440s but I’m not 100%

2- The ECU literally says Exige 260 on it… but in Biro. No, Seriously…

Underneath that label is the original part number for a 220 ECU. The part number that’s written onto it with Biro doesn’t seem to exist, at least nowhere that I can find on Deroure. The only part number I can find that comes close is ALS3M0240F (so the last digit is the only difference) and that comes up as… dun dun duuuuunnn:

https://www.deroure.com/partinfo.asp?MAK=1&MDL=12&TBL=12422&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=ALS3M0240&SC=1&PBID=1500724

The 255 ECU.

Now this might be purely a case of it being that a 260 ECU simply does not exist as its own discreet part number, and that they’re all just remapped versions of lesser ECUs but again if there are any 260 cup owners lurking that can grab me a part number, that would be much appreciated!

Have a look at this [mention]Fonzey[/mention]

https://www.lotuspartsonline.com/p/Lotus__/CUP-CAR-07-ECM/78545900/ALS3M0240J.html

Says a lotus cup car ECU …

so does this :

https://www.ecutuningperformance.com/en/chip-tuning/?brand=LOTUS&model=EXIGE+S2+MY2006&engine=CUP+255+1.8L+16V+TOYOTA+187KW+256PS+EFI+T4E

and this