Interesting post on SELOC regarding excessive heat in a certain area in the back of the Honda powered S1. Looks like that some people have not enough heat protection in this area and it is causing the alloy structure to go through excessive heat cycles.
I am sure it doesn’t apply to anyone from this forum but for what it costs it may be worth a check over the winter …
Interesting post on SELOC regarding excessive heat in a certain area in the back of the Honda powered S1. Looks like that some people have not enough heat protection in this area and it is causing the alloy structure to go through excessive heat cycles.
I am sure it doesn’t apply to anyone from this forum but for what it costs it may be worth a check over the winter …
erm which alloy structure?
It’s got pictures in the post on SELOC explaining everything. Basically if it has been well heat insulated on the install then nothing to worry about - so it’s got to be worth a quick 5 mins of your time just to check it out…
Oh that one - the heat issue on the underside of the subframe?
Talking of those ceramic coatings mentioned, I invested on this on my manifold it cost �250 and did absolutely nothing. I measured the temps with a pyro guage and it was the same as uncoated right the way through the heat cyle range, even after continued running there was only marginal difference so I would say from experience that the coating i used didn’t work as claimed. I then went back to the good old fashioned exhaust wrap and saw massive temp drops right the way through the entire running cycle, all this and only �60…
Talking of those ceramic coatings mentioned, I invested on this on my manifold it cost �250 and did absolutely nothing. I measured the temps with a pyro guage and it was the same as uncoated right the way through the heat cyle range, even after continued running there was only marginal difference so I would say from experience that the coating i used didn’t work as claimed. I then went back to the good old fashioned exhaust wrap and saw massive temp drops right the way through the entire running cycle, all this and only �60…
wrap is the way forward - just fiddly to install and a PIA when it all falls off if you take out the manifold. Oh and the smell when its new!
Oh and the smell when its new!
Agreed - this stuff stinks first time it gets warm after installation…but works a treat.
Sorry Johnboy, but wrong… wrapping is the first thing I did when I discovered the heatproblems. Wrapped the complete manifold from head to cat. Temperature did NOT drop at all.
Using the Nimbus and Cirrus shields got the bootbox temperature down to 25-29 degree celcius, which is a bit of a difference if you consider that I’ve melted the plugs on my satnav loom which were travelling in the back when I was driving down to Stelvio this summer.
Have you actually measured your exhaust temps?
No, I didn’t really see the use of doing that as the exhaust temp changes quite a bit, so to have an accurate measurement, you’d have to define a specific kind of load for a specific time at a specific Ambient Temp.
What I’ve done is simply created a couple of reference points in the boot. Marked them and measured temperature at these points before and after at similar loads. (heaviest load seemed to be motorway driving for a couple of hours at 100mph).
Most extreme temperature went down from well over 100 degrees C to 29 degrees C.
Another thing, not measured, but simply noticed is that the rear clam isn’t getting hot anymore. Normally, when driving in the rain for a couple of hours (motorway), the rear of the car was always dry (and dirty). Now, the rear is wet and not even warm.
BTW, when I did the wrapping, I did the same temperature checks. There was NO difference at all.
A picture says more then a thousand words…
This connector travelled in the bootbag (which was ‘protected’ by the black foam stuff on the bootfloor) during Stelvio.
[image]http://www.lotus-elise.nl/Connector.jpg[/image]
![http://www.lotus-elise.nl/Connector.jpg[/image]](http://www.lotus-elise.nl/Connector.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
Looks like it was made at the same factory as these:
[image]http://www.creativechocolatesofvt.com/images/large_tools.jpg[/image]
![http://www.creativechocolatesofvt.com/images/large_tools.jpg[/image]](http://www.creativechocolatesofvt.com/images/large_tools.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
I don’t know if it applies in this case, but there are many different makes of exhaust wrap on the market currently. I tried purchasing some off ebay it looked good but was as useful as those chocolate tools pictured above. The expensive higher temp rated stuff made a massive difference on my car. Not disputing the Nimbus heat shield stuff made i think by thermo tech as i use this to sheild a turbo and it also works wonders. I am now going down a route that will be producing massive under clam temps so i will be relying heavily on heat reducing/reflecting materials throughout my engine bay this winter…
I don’t know which brand the exhaust wrap was that I’ve used. It looked ok (and smelled / smoked ok when started first time )
The application you mention (heat reflecting etc.) is certainly one I’d recommend either Nimbus or Cirrus for.
I have just wrapped my exhaust and the difference it has made is huge. You can touch the headers by the head now and still have your finger prints on!!
I bought the copper stuff from Demon tweeks.
Sean…
I’ve used the DT wrap before and it does the job.
I don’t bother wrapping past the primaries and have a bare ali boot floor without heat issues.
Did not have issues when I had a similar manifold to the link-up one (early blink prototype) but now I use a bigger bore so not a like for like I suppose.
If you think your boot is getting too hot I might be inclined to check all my temps in case one of more cylinders are running too lean/hot for some reason.
I have just wrapped my exhaust and the difference it has made is huge. You can touch the headers by the head now and still have your finger prints on!!
Can’t help thinking that this only pushes the heat issue on to somewhere else less obvious. Has anyone measured the internal temps of the exhaust and are there any stats on what the “correct” range should be?
Did not have issues when I had a similar manifold to the link-up one (early blink prototype) but now I use a bigger bore so not a like for like I suppose.
If you think your boot is getting too hot I might be inclined to check all my temps in case one of more cylinders are running too lean/hot for some reason.
That’ll be a bit odd then… Some mishaps from other owners:
Oxygen Sensor wiring was turned into a black blob with some copper sticking out of it on the boot floor.
Owner took his raincoat from the boot which was completely melted to one hard plastic plate.
Owner is complaining about heat, bootlid (the plastic fiddly thingy is deforming)
Owner is now going for the same solution as I do complaining about heat aswell. (that’s an S2)
I wouldn’t want to identify this problem as unique… I’ll take some measurements as soon as I get out with the car again. (will not happen coming weeks)
Have applied wrap to my exhaust and applied Cirrus XX whatever it is to the underside of the “boot” floor and around the exhaust ( Pics will follow when I get a new Sony battery ) I have also added temperature tell tale strips but as yet I havent run the engine maybe in a month when Im back in UK … so will have some definate data then
I agree with Johnboy on confirming that you don’t have a “running lean” issue that is raising your exhaust temps. One of those infa red temp guns on each exhaust header will let you know if one cylinder is running hotter than another. If all are equal then maybe it is worth borrowing a wide band lambda gauge so you can confirm that your mixture is correct. I say all this as if you do have a problem it will end up in a melted piston, so surely better safe than sorry!!