Have you ruled out half-height cap heads?
link
Low Head Socket Cap Screw
:whistle:, no that’s a crappy choice lol
Gav, did you try Nitorn for the uprights! Expensive…? Are the the Eliseparts the same…
The bolts AP supply are quite special for the job Steve, you can’t just use any old nut and bolt…
I don’t know if AP supply half caps or not, it’s a bit late now as I have already tightened them to the discs (you should only use them once and then replace them all when you need new discs).
Tbh they are only just catching, it will be easier for me to simply file a small flat in the caliper, there is more than enough material in this area for it not to be a problem. The fronts being 20mm bigger don’t have an issue at all.
No RS green, message received and understood 
Yes I looked at the Nitron uprights, I fell in love with them a couple years ago when they first introduced them and always thought when the time to build the car came they were going to be at the top of the shopping list!!
They still were at the top of the list right up until about two months ago when I contacted them to order some only to be told they havent got any in stock and were not going to be making anymore…
Dave at Seriously Lotus (bless his cotton socks) managed to track down a full set sent out to OZ that the owner never got around to fitting. Mind the guy wanted back what he paid for them which ended up far too pricey for me with all the shipping back to the UK and I was ultimately buying obsolete parts…
I also looked at Pilbeam to supply the parts but again far too pricey when you added up all the little bits to make them work. For anyone who is interested it is Pilbeam that hold all the original jigs for the wide body GT3 wishbones… Had I not got all my wishbones etc I may have gone the full Pilbeam route but your talking the price of an S1 elise just to do the suspension!!
No, the EP ones were by far the most attractive in terms of cost for what you get and being able to buy replacements off the shelf if I ever need them is a bonus. I also took advantage of their Xmas sale and got a further 10% off which helped out nicely thank you very much!
[quote=stevegreen][quote=TarmacTerrorist]
First problem… The fully floating bells use bobbins mounted to them to hold the discs in place, these stand much prouder of disc face than a normal solid fix bell and as such the caps foul the caliper with a smaller 295 disc. Im going to have to file a little flat in the back of the calipers on one side to clear the bolt heads, no biggie. -
[/quote]
Have you ruled out half-height cap heads?
link
Low Head Socket Cap Screw
[/quote]
DO NOT USE CHEAP CAP HEAD SET SCREWS ON BRAKE DISCS - EVER!!!
The AP bolts have a shank that goes through the bobbin and the disc, so the forces are on an un threaded part of the bolt.
These bells where actually designed for use on the 304mm and bigger discs or on the rear with std h/brake calipers.
Having looked at the 2 pot calipers Gav’s Idea of removing a small amount of material will work and will be safe.
Dave - agree in part with what you are saying as my link to those bolts was to illustrate the half height element only.
I haven’t seen the detail of the AP bolts so can’t comment on how they actually are designed to work in this application but in certain applications it makes no difference if shank is plain or threaded as long as the correct cross sectional area is used in the shear calculations.
Not wanting to rain on someone else’s parade but finding the suitable alternative bolt might be preferable to making un-engineered changes to the caliper.
In any event, I think we can both agree on such a safety critical part it’s best to be sure before fitting.
Not a lot of info but -
and
Out of interest, the Eliseparts floating brake disc setup I have on my car, use special 12.9 grade half height heads to stop them touching the calipers. Therefore, I assume if anyone ever needs any, it would be possible to buy them from Geary and know they weren’t any old crap…assuming they are the correct size.
The drivers side sill is on, remembered my gloves this time! It’s so cold down the back here the passenger sill and bulkhead still haven’t gone off properly yet…!!
The rear suspension is all but built up, nothing tighten up still as it needs to come back apart when the drive shafts go in. Hopefully dropping the engine into position this weekend.
2 wheels on the wagon at least -
And of the correct style with correct lenght of unthreaded shank which is very very important
[quote=stevegreen]In any event, I think we can both agree on such a safety critical part it’s best to be sure before fitting.
[/quote]
Agreed 
If the gap between those bolts and the calliper really is just a gnats knacker, like it looks, I would make it bigger Gav, you will be surprised at how much things move and expand / contract.
There is approx. 2-3mm gap between the caliper and bolt head all round it Sean, I really cant see a small bolt expanding that much…
fair play, in the pic it looked about half a mill.
Its not the bolt you have to worry about, its the whole bell expanding and the bearing and hub flange flexing when braking and cornering. its surprising how much things move.
Cheers Sean, Ill dab a little paint on the area I have filed, see if it picks up anything when i get it running up to speed 
No worries mate, I am sure we have all felt ‘pad knock off’ that is normally due to stuff flexing and pushing the pads away from the disk.
I’ve managed to get another good couples of evenings on it again this weekend. It’s starting to look like a car… 
All four wheels are on and it’s back down to ground level, I’ve roughly set the ride heights to where I would like them (80f/90r) and just generally checking over everything to make sure nothing is fouling or looks dodgy -
Steering rack need to be adjusted in height, not sure wether there will be enough in it, I might have to flip the track rod ends upside down and revert back to std steering control arms…
Engine is in it’s hole…
Looks awesome mate lol I cooked Sunday roast today