BTW, I received some enquiries from people that (like me) would like to avoid an external swril pot and pump setup, preferring the in-tank fuel pump I use.
I thought of posting what I have done for the benefit (or not ) of all:
The main problem is that it’s a DIY thing, nobody currently makes a kit for this, and they won’t, because of a pinhole.
Basically it’s a Sytec 340 pump (I think, could be 341 or 342 as in the chart I have they’re all the same).
If you need the Pressure Vs flow chart get in touch with an email addy so I can send it.
The problem is that it’s a single stage one, there are absolutely no dual stage pumps that we can use and the Lotus jobbie is good at keeping it simple, but built of plastic (yes, even the internal gears) so it loses pressure quickly with time.
Not a problem when it’s got 118 BHP to feed, but a problem when they’re more like 220!
Also tried the S2, 111R pump, which is rated better but has a different loom, connector and electronics. Tried the VX220 pump as well, but it’s a single stage one that has its own problems.
So kept refining this one to the point that I no longer get any fuel starvation while cornering.
Basically it’s like this:
-remove previous pump from the white plastic (doh!) with external filter
-make a sleeve to adapt the new, bigger pump to sit inside (no external pick up anymore).
-lower the white plastic canister by thinning down the rubber feet to approx only 3mm from tank floor
-plug pinhole on the fuel return leg (used Mylar tape, spring on top keeps it tight)
-reduce overflow hole on top by installing a rubber grommet (hope the rubber was fuel-resistant)
-avoid parking on slopes tilted to the right (just in case).
This way the fuel will be picked up by… well, just because it’s around it.
As soon as the pump starts it will be picking some more fuel from the bottom hole (both of them with their rubber check valves) and circulating it through the fuel rail.
The return will be dumping it inside the canister where it’s going to have a hard time escaping (precisely because the rubber check valves are still there and because the overflow hole is very small now)
There is one drawback to all this, and the reason why nobody will be able to offer this as a kit to the public: the pinhole.
We blocked it, remember? this little hole prevented fuel from being pressurized and sent up the pipe when the tank is disconnected.
With this plugged, as soon as you’re bolting the pump, fuel vapours will start pressurizing the tank, and the ONLY way to escape is precisely sending fuel up the hose (it used to be vapour thanks to the little hole, but it’s not there anymore).
So basically fuel will be pouring from that pipe as you’re bolting the pump down (you need to have the pipes disconnected at this time in order to access the nuts) and need to be quick connecting the “quick” release fuel pipe connector.
Would recommend not to smoke while you’re doing this, and for the next day around the car. Actually, it’s a good excuse to stop smking altogether.
Other than that once the pipes are plugged the system is perfectly sealed and there are no more fuel starvation problems even with a single stage pump.
HTH.
Uldis