What Geo???

Hi folks,

OK car’s nearly back in one piece! Huzzar!!! And I did go down the insurance route in the end

But will be getting the geo redone so… WHAT GEO!!!

Once my poxies are dead I’ll defo be getting some A048’s so what’s a suitably aggressive geo for 48’s? And after this it’s gonna be more a sprint / trackday car witht he Xantia for day to day stuff

Is a 340R geo suitable?

Also thinking of some stiffer springs on the LSS dampers, has anyone done this? Just to get rid of some of the body roll.


Hi Mark,

Really glad to hear youve got the beast back up and running

Im sure one of the clever ones will be along in a minute to tell you about the geo


Glad to here you are almost back on the road, these things always take toooooo long.

I wouldn’t use stiffer spring on LSS. The shocks are already under damped for the springs so having stiffer springs to control is only going to make things worse. I would sooner go for better shocks although it makes the most sence to do them both at the same time to save chasing your tail.

I’ve done a fair bit of research and this is what I have planned for my car: Nitrons with extra travel at the rear and 400/525 Eibach springs, 3* stiffer ARB, Nylotron bushes and Pagid pads. You could probably get away with softer rear springs as you have less power/weight so I would try 400/500.

I will probably start with standardish geo and work from there depending on what the car needs. May bw wise to do the same or take a base setting from someone else but don’t run any silly ride heights.

Hope this helps.

Agree with Randy

I run standard height with Nitrons on 325/400 - Nylatron bushes, std ARB - Geo change is basic more negative at the front ( 1-1.2 degree) - a little less toe in at rear ( 1.4mm perside ) - and parallel toe at front.

Mark - your the MR2 specialist ? - MK2 - early facelift model - 84K miles - 4.9K Pounds - reasonable ?

Was thinking a degree more neg camber all round, but the toe is a good tip, cheers andy

For the MR2… Early facelift will be a 94 car right, (N/M - or round there), so has the “round” rear lights? There were revision 2’s made in 94 IIRC (revision 3 is the first of the face lifts).

84k isn’t too bad but the price sounds a little high, owners goggles on that one possibly It’d be worth that if it was a t-bar in a desirable colour and very good condition IMHO.

If it’s a sunroof model then seems a little high. Also a turbo would fetch that kind of price (but could get away with being a little ropey here and there IYSWIM).

Unfortunantly MkII MR2’s are becoming “proper chavster” cars, the real early cars go for as little as �2k And this seems to help to drop the prices even further!


A girl I work with has just bought virtually exactly the same car. Its a 94 with about 80k on the clock.

Nice mid blue, T Bar as well, every MOT kept and FSH, Just a couple of little dings, but nothing major and was just �2800!

Thanks Mark and Paul !! - Its for a friend BTW

If your “friend” like a bit of power defo look for a turbo, loads of power and if you’re going Rev 3+ then it’s 240bhp fromt he factory and good for 300+ by basically just upping the boost

Then T-Bar for maximum pose value! I did love my T-Bars, such a good idea, open top motoring but not a ragtop (which can be cut open, flaps about etc…), all good

P.S. everyone, keep an eye on him, next thing he’ll be bidding for THIS!!!

P.S. everyone, keep an eye on him, next thing he’ll be bidding for > THIS!!! >

Come to think of it Mark, Im getting worried…

Have a look back at this previous thread Click

… A ‘friend’ eh

P.S. everyone, keep an eye on him, next thing he’ll be bidding for > THIS!!! >

Come to think of it Mark, Im getting worried…

Have a look back at this previous thread > Click >

… A ‘friend’ eh

LOL! Hmmm I wonder what this “friends” name is… Wonder if it starts with the letter “A”


good to hear your car is getting ready…

Is it at Sinclaires?.. if so then they will give good advice about the geo… also the settings will depend what you end-up doing with the shocks/dampers. I wouldn’t mess with stiffer springs on the LSS as Randy says…

Andy prolly gave you good advice on geo but I also think that if you leave the suspension standard then you should start with standard settings but i’m sure 340R settings would work pretty well & more -ve camber will help at trac-days, but if you don’t really use it all then what you’ll get is faster wear on the inside edge of your A048’s. And it might be more twitchy on the road??

Andy – a baw hair off �5k for a Mk2 MR2 with 84k miles is bonkers… nae chance…

Cool beans! I’ll probably stay with the standard Geo then for the time being, maybe .5 deg of neg all round just as a tweak

As you say Rox, I’m not quite (read as: nowhere near) up to the limits of the car LOL!

And cheers for the dampers / springs advice, looks like I’ll start saving the pennies for some Nitrons Although my old shocks and springs are with K-Tec who do a load of suspension for the BSB… So hopefully they may be able to come up with something

mines all standard suspension and ride heights with

-0.5deg 3mins toe-out front and
-2.5deg 15mins toe-in rear

running A048’s, mostly on road and haven’t been on a dry track yet but luvvin it so far…

Rox, don’t get too over confident in the wet as the tyre wears down. While I agree they’re pretty good at clearing water when new, things change a bit was there’s less groove depth.


The “Friend” is deffo not me - I enjoy an open top car only once a year - and thanks for all the advice - its been passed on …

Cheers IDG

thanks for the advice… i am trully amazed at the standing water grip these things have at the mo’ tho’ but do realise that as they wear this will change…