Waterless Coolant

Thought I’d check out views on this here as well as TLF.
Is anyone using it in their V6 Exige? - car temps seem to be rise very quickly in standing traffic, or at least that’s what temp gauge reads, up to 104, but gets up there really quite quickly. - Was higher in previous S2 Exige - 112.
Is waterless coolant a solution for me or something else, (additional electric pump) or just live with it?

Not completely convinced to be honest.

Had something sent to me that extolled it virtues, but didn’t really say a lot. Had something else emailed to me that put me off completely!! Will see what I can dig out. Still couldn’t work out if it was sour grapes that they weren’t asked to sell the product, or something else.

water is still the best in terms of specific heat capacity… that means how much thermal energy a material can absorb per unit of mass. So, the more water content in your cooling system, the more energy it will absorb. So, if you live in a place that does not get below freezing, do not put in any antifreeze in your system at all. If you live in a place where where you only see -1C or -2C, then only add the minimum amount of antifreeze you can get away with.

Where you can improve the efficiency of your cooling system is to reduce the interface losses. Watters has a surface tension that limits the surface contact to the cooling system. Add a “wetting” agent to reduce the surface tension of the water and it will minimize your interface losses…in other words, the wetting agent will improve the thermal efficiency of your cooling system.

I’m pretty sure the waterless coolant is propanol, even though its specific heat capacity is pretty high, it still is not as high as pure water. Where propanol shines over water is its boiling point. So, if your engine’s cooling system was poorly designed in the first place, the propanol will make up for that. But engines built after the 1950s all are very good at that now. Any Toyota product does not apply.

If your temp comes up very fast, maybe your thermostat is stuck or draggy… they are very cheap and do fail. I’d change that out too.

^ Yes, but no as well. Totally, that water is better than pretty much anything else as a cooling medium. Not putting any antifreeze in your car, totally not. Antifreeze does 3 things, drop the freezing point - obviously - but it also helps to lubricate the bearings of any pumps, and stops the dissimilar metals reacting with each other in the cooling system. Most cars have alloy heads, more so alloy blocks, ally rads, etc but you will find copper/steel radiators, cast iron blocks, but the one that gets most people is the water pump impellor, which is almost always steel. If you run no antifreeze at all, you end up with a horrible brown coolant, that happily sludges up your cooling system.

Found the link http://response.pure360.com/interface/external_view_email.php?C9249773712832585845429126424014&varId=

Didn’t someone use it when there was still some water left and it reacted and ate the radiator?

Thanks for the info guys, your link was good to read JDS, cheers.
From what most are saying this is not the solution then, but ‘Water Wetter’ might be a possibility to help a bit?

Again…yes, but… it is all of the additives that are added into to antifreeze that ishe doozing that…and that is only applicable to American V8s that still insist on using cast iron…BTW, those additives make your coolant worse. I’m still telling you to add the wetting solution…that is specially designed for cooling systems to add just a tiny bit of antifreeze.

It helps quite a bit… also reduce the amount of antifreeze you are adding and replace your thermostat… something like 5% rather than 50%…

They don’t react…lol… it’s just that if there is still 5% water in the system, it starts approaching the boiling point of water and negates the advantages…

My V6 gets to about 96/96 in traffic and then the fans cut in and it drops back to 85/86 -
I had an issue that the low temperature warning would randomly come on , checking the reading from the sensor showed it was reading low ( frustrating on track when it goes into limp mode ) - sensor was changed and since then no issues.
I would change the sensor to start with …