The following info came from Karl (Emerald). I hope it helps:
ECU configuration for VHPD engine (Elise S1 190), use sbelise1.fig as a
basemap :
No of cylinders = 4
Main trigger = Crank Type = inductive Pattern = Rover2
Cam/Phase sensor = not used
IACV type = stepper motor
Ignition driver output = single
Injection output = grouped.
ECU configuration for VHPD engine (Exige), Use ex1.fig as a basemap :
No of cylinders = 4
Main trigger = Crank Type = inductive Pattern = Rover2
Cam/Phase sensor = not used
IACV type = PWM valve Frequency = 120Hz
Ignition driver output = single
Injection output = grouped.
George
I am using the ex1.fig map, all I get is about half a second of life from the engine when I first try to start then I get nothing just turns over, if I then leave it for an hour and try again I get the same.
George…interesting…I’m sure I’ve got the ignition driver output set to something other than single, Looks like something to check. I’m using the exige IACV, and ex1.fig, so I’ll check my settings against that one you posted.
George
I am using the ex1.fig map, all I get is about half a second of life from the engine when I first try to start then I get nothing just turns over, if I then leave it for an hour and try again I get the same.
just tried the settings George posted, I only get sparks on cyl 2 and 3 if ignition driver output is set to single, get sparks on all 4 if I set it to double. Which is why I had it set to double originally.
Coil 1 should be connected to the spark plugs leads 1 and 4.
What I mean is that there is a chance you�ve connected spark plug leads 1 & 4 to coil 2 and 2&3 to coil 1.
Worth checking it.
Going to get my dad round tomorrow, could do with another pair of hands so I can mess with the fueling and ignition from live adjustments.
am I right in thinking retarding he ignition might help it start easier? seems contrary to the start up ignition which is only advance-able (I think I just made that word up!)
used a timing light, and on the Rover2 crank trigger pattern, cyl 1 spark triggers 180 degrees out, amended the ref position to 290 (the default was 110, so I tried 290) and it triggers exactly at TDC.
looks like I need to swap the coils over again!
I’ve got it correct according to all of the info from the paperwork, going to diconnect one of the wires from the coil - ecu. and determine exactly which pin is driving each coil.
forget that last post, at that time I had swapped the input to the coils and forgotten I’d done it, makes complete sense that they were firing 180 out, swapped the coil inputs and switched back to 110 degrees reference now.
double checked all the fuelling today, ran it with the fuel rail removed and can see it’s fuelling from eack injector, I can see it’s sparking when it should - but it’s a million miles from starting.
My only thought is that it may somehow be fuelling on the wrong stroke. Does anybody know how the fueling is triggered, i would have thought it was based on the same trigger as the ignition!
Even if was fueling at the wrong piont of the engine rotation it should still run (just not great). You may want to do something as simple as install a fresh set of plugs. I’m sure that the one that you have been running are knackered from all the fuel that you’ve been dumping on them.
I agree. At this stage with all the agro you have been giving them a fresh set of plugs would be good. No need to go for pukka ones. Get yourself to Halfords and get some 1.8 Rover 25 plugs.
Joff,
OK, you’ve established that you have fuel and spark. You have double and triple checked the wiring end of the business.
Maybe you should get back to basics and do a compression test on the cylinders to make sure that you have no mechanical problems.
Seeing that you have plenty of fuel and you have spark, it has to be something simple holing you back from
your right Mark, I’ve decided a compression test was the way to go, maybe I screwed up the timing somehow, giving no compression, worst case I’ve gone and done something partucularly stupid and bent the valves, so I might be looking for a new set of valves if anybody’s got some lying about.
Ah well…I’ve got a spare head gasket I guess…shame to not use it!
I had an ‘interesting’ solution to setting cam timing, thats not really worth me going into now, suffice to say, when I was finally happy with the setup I had, I removed one of the pulley’s briefly to mark it up properly with its new 90 deg btdc marks… and I transferred the marks incorrectly.
the result being the inlet cam was about 90 degrees out. Luckily in the safe direction. (I had rotated it by hand a few turns anyway so it was never going to be catastrophic)
when I whipped the cam cover off the night before last, I could see the cams were wrong in a second…but I’d never taken that step back to look at it with fresh eyes before.
it still hasn’t run yet, but I’m a bit more confident that it will now. Got friday of work, so I reckon that’ll be the day.
Thanks for all the help and advice.