My car’s in the garage for a geo and new brakes at the moment, but they’ve broken the locking wheel nut tool because they were massively over-tightened the last time the tyres were fitted.
Unfortunately, the replacement tool is on back-order, probably not available for a couple of months.
It’s a long shot, but would anybody be able to help with the loan of a matching tool? The code no. is 880
The car’s at Graypaul in Solihull, they’ve spent over four hours today trying to remove the wheel nuts, but one of them still hasn’t budged
It’s kind of urgent as I’m heading off for a driving holiday around Europe on Friday night, and I REALLY don’t want to do it in my wife’s Mini.
Hmm… I could ask the guys at Graypaul tomorrow if they can take a picture for me. I suppose.
I think the pattern looks kind of like a cloverleaf. Does that help?
If they’ve spend over four hours trying to remove them, I’d guess this is the type that’s a complete git
I broke my locking wheel nut tool a few months ago. I called Paul Matty Sportscars , who collected the car from my home in the UK, and took it to their workshops in Bromsgrove. Paul said that the locking tool had been an issue with lots of his customers ( inferior / cheap casting) .
They are very used to removing the locking nut , without the appropriate locking nut tool.
They did this successfully on my car , and I’ve know binned all locking wheel nuts as PMS recommended.
I suggest that Graypaul phone Paul Matty Sprortscars in the morning , and speak to Roy , in the workshops , as ’ how to ’
Thanks for all the replies guys! I’ve put Craig at Graypaul in touch with Paul Matty Sportscars, hopefully they can help!
Apparently the code for the locking wheel nut key is on the bag that it comes in. If anybody has a key with the right code (880), they might be able to help.
I don’t think photos are going to help identify the key as the differences are quite subtle.
Last I heard, they’ve started drilling one of them out, but there’s still 3 more to go.
They reckon they can’t weld anything to the nut because it’s too deeply recessed.
a 17mm shallow nut with a hole in the centre !
The mig wire will pass through the hole and weld the nut onto the bolt then just remove with a socket.The heat from welding will probably free up the corrosion thats keeping the bolt tight too.
Just mask the wheel off so as the stray mig sparks dont mark your wheels.
I,ve done this quite a few times when I was a motor trader and seldom used to have a wheel nut tool.
I asked them about welding something on, but they said there’s not enough room to get a weld of sufficient strength. The’re done up fecking tight apparently.
I can’t imagine the AA would be interested as the car isn’t broken down. It’s perfectly driveable, and it’s already at a garage that should be able to do the job!
[quote=Brendan]I asked them about welding something on, but they said there’s not enough room to get a weld of sufficient strength. The’re done up fecking tight apparently.
I can’t imagine the AA would be interested as the car isn’t broken down. It’s perfectly driveable, and it’s already at a garage that should be able to do the job! [/quote]
Brendan , collect your your , drive in down the M42 to PMS , and they’ll do the job for you INMHO
Agreed Podger … Removing wheel bolts should be child’s play for a workshop.Sharp ,quality drill bit will also glide through a bolt ,move up a size in stages then use a screw extractor … Quite a basic job.
I hope I’m not sounding a know it all here but hours and a fail to remove a bolt ??
