I have 450/550 springs on mine, im not fat, but it would be far cheaper to loose weight thatn spend a fortune on lighter wheels.
Christian
I have 450/550 springs on mine, im not fat, but it would be far cheaper to loose weight thatn spend a fortune on lighter wheels.
Christian
Amen to that!!!
Now where’s that kebab.
Amen to that!!!
Now where’s that kebab.
Sorry, mate, just scoffed it
I’ve just upgraded to 450/550 springs.
Pesky - any science in the amount of change from your orignal setup, eg, is the additional poundage directly proportional to the additional weight of the engine or is it just trial and error/comparioson with what others are using?
Steve
Randy (whose opinion I highly value) recommended 400/550, & to be honest that’s what I was going to order when I phoned Nitron. Guy @ Nitron said that he would normally suggest a smaller difference, so I went for the 450/550.
Nitron also re-conditioned the dampers, & made a superb job of that - just like new. They fitted the springs to the dampers, & set the stiffness as they thought would be appropriate for the track. As it happens, a couple of days after getting them back, I did Oulton, & it was dry & sunny - car felt spot on. However, on the road it really is too stiff (particularly bearing in mind the Autumnal weather!), & I’ve hardly driven it since Oulton, apart from my trip to Milton Keynes. So, today in the garage, I’ve had a looksie, & the dampers were in fact set really hard. I’ve softened them off to 2 clicks from soft on the front, & 4 on the rear, but have not had chance to try it on the road yet. I’m hoping to do Anglesey on Saturday, so a 120 mile drive there should prove useful in getting a proper feel for my preferred set up.
PS My new jack is okay, thank you very much
Excellent info - thanks.
Please post an update after Anglesey.
My S160 had a std Elise ARB and even with the 325/400 Nitrons I ran on that I never felt the need to upgrade the bar.
OK I’m curious about this - both Plans and Eliseparts have upgraded (read stiffer) arb’s but the price difference appears to be quite large (Eliseparts is �158.57 and Plans is �287.00 - both prices taken from their websites and are mail order). They both appear to be the 5 hole items similar to what is fitted as standard to our cars.
A further option from Eliseparts is to have these adjustable slider drop links for �146.82:
[image]http://www.eliseparts.com/secure/media/droplinks5.jpg[/image]
![http://www.eliseparts.com/secure/media/droplinks5.jpg[/image]](http://www.eliseparts.com/secure/media/droplinks5.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
I must admit that I like the sound of this bit of kit and would probably mess about with the settings if this was fitted rather than the 5 hole arrangement.
I have always been concerned about the amount of body roll the exige generates when driven hard into corners.
[color:“red”]QUESTION: Does anyone know the angle of lean? [/color] The book suggests a maximum of 4 degrees for a road car and 2 degrees or less for a race car.
[color:“red”]QUESTION: Has anyone ever moved their arb off the central setting?[/color]
According to one book I have (“How to make your car handle” by Fred Puhn) installing stiffer arb’s will give more improvement in handling per pound spent than almost anything else you can do.
If the car leans too much, you can get positive camber on the front tyres, loosing traction and creating understeer.
I have selectively quoted from the book as its a complicated science/art…however providing that the arb is not as stiff as to make a front wheel lift, then is it not a good thing?
A final comment from the book - replacing rubber bushings with solid ones (nylon or nylatron?) can have a bigger effect uppon roll stiffness than an increase in the diameter of the bar!
PS the upgraded bar from Eliseparts looks better value for money if there is play in the original bushes which will cost �50 on their own to replace
…just trying to use some of the wifes “shopping logic” ands would love to quote it back at her
A final comment from the book - replacing rubber bushings with solid ones (nylon or nylatron?) can have a bigger effect uppon roll stiffness than an increase in the diameter of the bar!
isnt nylon the same as nylatron??? if not…whats the differnt…???
A final comment from the book - replacing rubber bushings with solid ones (nylon or nylatron?) can have a bigger effect uppon roll stiffness than an increase in the diameter of the bar!
isnt nylon the same as nylatron??? if not…whats the differnt…???
Nerd alert this is my day job …
Nylatron is Nylon but with added lubricating properties because molybdenum disulphide is added to the base material - hence its colour - dark grey. There are many grades available, some more relevant than others for our applications ( some are quite brittle ).
There is also a grade which is blue, but that has no MoO2 and so is not so self lubricating.
There is some great material from Dupont called Vespel and that is perfect for bearings etc but costs are way higher than Nylatron
Nerd alert this is my day job …
Nylatron is Nylon but with added lubricating properties because molybdenum disulphide is added to the base material - hence its colour - dark grey. There are many grades available, some more relevant than others for our applications ( some are quite brittle ).
There is also a grade which is blue, but that has no MoO2 and so is not so self lubricating.
There is some great material from Dupont called Vespel and that is perfect for bearings etc but costs are way higher than Nylatron
Nice to know… … anyway… I understand that if you fit nylatron you still have to grease them now and then?.. but how often should you do that…km? year?
I understand that if you fit nylatron you still have to grease them now and then?.. but how often should you do that…km? year?
No fixed rule - it depends upon when they start “squeaking” - not as pleasant as our friendly “yip”