Sean, you doing Oil/Air and Oil/Water cooling?
Ian
Sean - aren’t you worried about the possibility of the coolant pipe rubbing on the gearbox mount. It might just be the photo but it looks a close fit and with everything moving under power…couldn’t you double sleeve that section.
Also, where did the second straight flange go?
This has crossed my mind to be honest. I am going to keep an eye on it. The silicon hose I am using is properly thick 4 layer stuff and there are no hard or sharp edges in contact with the hose. As you say some sheathing may be required if I have any issues.
The second straight flange went onto the outlet of the water pipe. so that the putlet pointed straight up. I have then come off it with a 90 degree silicon hose onto the gearbox cooler.
The pic below shows the one straight connector on the pump inlet that is in the rubber hose. You can see the 90 degree flange on the outlet in the pic. That 90 has now been replaced with the straight one.
[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/waterpumpinplace.jpg[/image]
![http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/waterpumpinplace.jpg[/image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/waterpumpinplace.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
Sean
Sean, you doing Oil/Air and Oil/Water cooling?
Ian
No Ian I am just going oil/water. Its a bit of an experiment. If it doesn’t work how I expect it to, I will revert back to my old oil / water engine oil cooler as I know that works. The oil / water way I am trying is ultimatly lighter and there is less chance for a leak as the pipr runs are shorter and it gives the oil pump a bit of an easier time as it doesn’t have to pump the oil so far.
Sean…
i think the oil/water solution will work. These coolers r efficient. the only problem i see (maybe) with your solution using electric water pump without recirculation. U will have different water flows depending on water temperature. So the water flow in the cooler will change often.
In a classic solution u would put the cooler where u always have a water flow (water recirc and water from rad).
but to know if it work u only have to test it.
Continue sean, what a great read.
Nicolas
i think the oil/water solution will work. These coolers r efficient. the only problem i see (maybe) with your solution using electric water pump without recirculation. U will have different water flows depending on water temperature. So the water flow in the cooler will change often.
In a classic solution u would put the cooler where u always have a water flow (water recirc and water from rad).but to know if it work u only have to test it.
Continue sean, what a great read.Nicolas
Cheers Nicolas, to be honest that is a concern I am having, but like you say we wont know until its tested. However I am going to be trying to keep the water temp around the mid 70’s mark. For that I do think the water pump will be running more often than not at a fairly high rate (it actually runs all the time over 50 degrees, but at different speeds depending on the target temp) so fingers crossed the flow through the oil cooler will be enough to keep the oil temp in check.
anyway if it doen not work, u can simply put recirc pipes and a good thermostat in the right place…
Sean
I know you ain’t no dummy at this, so you have prolly sorted it out perfectly - but thought i’d just say that you should check your modified clutch-slave-cylinder bracket doesn’t flex when you push the clutch out as soon as you can because I lost two bolts from mine a while back and it flexed when I used the clutch giving me gear-change problems.
So you should check it while you still have good access if it needs to come off again for more mods… mind you, you prolly don’t need the clutch with that mega-wad motorbike gearbox
Hi mate,
Yeah I know what you mean about the clutch slave bracket. It would be helpful if you could let me know which two bolts you lost???
I have taken the top section that bolts to the gearbox mount off. The two lower bolts that go into the gearbox are still there. Plus I have the Eliseparts strengthening bracket. I have welded some extra gussets onto the bottom of what is left of the original, but I guess I wont know if all of that is enough until I have tried it out.
If it doesnt work I can still adapt the bracket to pick up on the top two original bolt holes, but fingers crossed it will all be OK.
anyway if it doen not work, u can simply put recirc pipes and a good thermostat in the right place…
Yeah, like you say verything I have done is reversable. But I am mega confident that the new water pump will do the business.
Sean…
Hi mate,
Yeah I know what you mean about the clutch slave bracket. It would be helpful if you could let me know which two bolts you lost???
Couldn’t quite remember when i posted up at first, but i’ve just been out to look and check… it was deffo the bottom ones that are into the gearbox. Looks like you cut the top ones off? so they might not take much of the ‘pushing’ from the slave cylinder arm? but you should still check before you put clam on
Cool, I was hoping you said you had lost the bottom ones. Looking at the angles and stuff, it deffo looks like the bottom ones do the lions share of the work. I am gonna loctight those buggers in after what you have said!!
Cheers big ears!!
agree… the bottom one nearest the slave cylinder especially…
Did a bit more today. And finally got ALL of the pipework finished.
I left it last week waiting for a -10 weld on boss to arrive so that I could finish off the adaptor that will take oil out of the gearbox and into the pump for the gearbox cooler.
Well it did arrive on Friday and I dropped it off to be welded. I didn�t want to do it myself as it needed to be TIG�d to keep the weld small so that the flat part that seals against the gearbox, stayed flat. Lol. They were busy so couldn�t do it while I waited as usual, so I had to pop back and due to the bloody traffic I didn�t make it back before they closed. Doh!!!
I did some Christmas shopping yesterday (God how much do I hate shopping!!!)
So I picked my welding up this morning and started to make up the pipes.
Before I started making the pipes, I refitted the drive shafts and the exhaust manifold and Cat rep pipe so that I could make sure none of the pipes fouled anything that they shouldn�t
So firstly then coming out of the gearbox with my new welded adaptor to a -10 45 degree fitting and then onto the pump.
[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/gearboxcoolerdrainpiped.jpg[/image]
![http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/gearboxcoolerdrainpiped.jpg[/image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/gearboxcoolerdrainpiped.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
Just getting this right took me ages. I originally was going to come off the fitting with a straight connector, but once I had that on the -10 pipe wouldn�t take the radius that I wanted (cus its so bloody big and doesn�t like to bend), so I went back to the aeroquip place and got a -10 90 degree fitting. But when I fitted that up, it actually turned to tight and fouled on the gear linkage. So off it came again and back to the bloody shop for a -10 45 degree fitting. I would love to just buy 10 of every fitting and have them on the shelf, but they are so bloody expensive that I just can�t afford to have loads of stuff just sitting around.
The gearbox cooler pump wont suck, it only blows (cue loads of jokes lol), so it has to be gravity fed, so getting it as low as possible is important.
[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/Gearboxcoolerpumppiped.jpg[/image]
![http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/Gearboxcoolerpumppiped.jpg[/image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/Gearboxcoolerpumppiped.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
Then its -6 out of the pump and up to the cooler.
[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/Gearboxcoolerpiped.jpg[/image]
![http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/Gearboxcoolerpiped.jpg[/image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/Gearboxcoolerpiped.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
Then out of the other side of the cooler and down underneath the gearbox, underneath the driveshaft and up and back into the gearbox through the hole that is used to fill up the oil.
[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/gearboxcoolerrefilpiped.jpg[/image]
![http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/gearboxcoolerrefilpiped.jpg[/image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/gearboxcoolerrefilpiped.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
The pipe does look close to the shaft, but that is a cameras angle thing, it is actually miles away and shouldn�t cause any problems.
Then it was onto the engine oil cooler pipes. These were pretty straight forward. They come out of the oil cooler
[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/Engineoilcoolerpiped.jpg[/image]
![http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/Engineoilcoolerpiped.jpg[/image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/Engineoilcoolerpiped.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
And run down and around the side of the engine and to the oil filter hosing on the front side of the engine.
[image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/Oilfilterendpiped.jpg[/image]
![http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/Oilfilterendpiped.jpg[/image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/SeanBicknell/Oilfilterendpiped.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
So at last the engine is all installed and piped and everything. The next job is the wiring. I want to get everything wired up, engine started and everything working before I finally tape up the loom and install everything. Once that is done the engine and box will come back out so that I can install the heat shielding and start to tidy everything up.
Just a quickie before I bugger off with my kids for the weekend.
The loom is in and the engine starts!!!
I only had two wires wrong, which only took 5 mins to sort out.
I was well chuffed with myself.
Off for the weekend, with a smile on my face!!!
Sean…
Well done, matey
First of all, thanks to SeanB for such an informative thread, it looks like a great work!!!
Then, if I’m allowed to ask a question, I am interested in the electric pump (if I got it right, the impeller of the original mechanic one has been removed)…
what is the pump chart (I mean flow/pressure) and the power rating? I am also interested in the pump operation logic.
cheers and well done so far
Carlo
Hi Carlo,
Your best bet for information on the water pump is to have a look at there website
Basically the pump has an electronic control box (purchased seperatly) that has a temperature dial on it. You basically set the target temp that you want the engine to run at. This control box then basically sends a varying voltage to the pump in order to speed it up or slow it down in order to achieve the target temperature. The control box has its own temperature probe in the water system.
Yes I have removed the impellor from the original pump.
thanks for the quick reply,
I’ve sent them an e-mail, as there is no flow/pressure chart available on their site and from the electric power it draws I have some doubts about the pump max capability. IMHO a dual pump setup (one for circulating the engine and another for getting cold coolant from the rad) could be preferable, but quite possibly the single one you have will be enough…
cheers
Carlo
I know of a couple elises that use the setup I have with absolutly no problems, one a race car and one a road car. Neither has had any problems, so fingers crossed all will be well. If not I will simply put an original pump back on and throw the electric one away.
I know of a couple elises that use the setup I have with absolutly no problems, one a race car and one a road car. Neither has had any problems, so fingers crossed all will be well.
Re-reading my posts, I might have given the wrong impression… I definitively didn’t mean to criticize your great work
thanks again for this thread!