To all those with an Accusump

Sorry if this is a cross post from another forum, but I need advice and I need it resolved by the end of next week…have 4 days at the Ring coming up!

I know the procedure that is described in the manual to check the oil level.

However, I’m not getting the same pressure readings (pre-charge pressure of 15 PSI and oil pressure of 40 PSI)

Here’s what’s happened/happening :

I have had an oil change at the dealer’s and when I arrived at home the Accusump pressure gauge reading was at 60 PSI.
After 2 hours of cooling down, I checked the pressure again (engine was off) and the pressure was still at 60 PSI.

Today (after 24 hours of non-use) I have noticed that the pressure was at 45 PSI (engine was off). I then wanted to check the pre-pressure and turned the car key into position "ignition"� but the pressure stayed static at 45 PSI�…

Is something broken ?

is the il level correct when warm, i.e. folloowing the correct procedure?

[quote=jbs]I have had an oil change at the dealer’s and when I arrived at home the Accusump pressure gauge reading was at 60 PSI.

Is something broken ? [/quote]

No !!! :slight_smile: it’s probably not fully upto temperature on all sides :slight_smile: IMHO and double check oil levels ae correct as per handbook.

The engine oil pressure shown on the gauge of the accusump should mirror that of the engine, once you have oil pressure and the accusump is full. So that side sounds like its working fine.

On the discharge side, that sounds like its not working properly. If your car is set up as standard, then there will be a 2 pin pressure switch with 2 connectors, by the accusump valve. Turn on the ignition and disconnect the sensor and join the two wires together, if the accusump discharges, then the pressure switch is at fault. If it doesn’t, either its not set up right or the accusump valve is at fault.

[quote=JDS]The engine oil pressure shown on the gauge of the accusump should mirror that of the engine, once you have oil pressure and the accusump is full. So that side sounds like its working fine.

On the discharge side, that sounds like its not working properly. If your car is set up as standard, then there will be a 2 pin pressure switch with 2 connectors, by the accusump valve. Turn on the ignition and disconnect the sensor and join the two wires together, if the accusump discharges, then the pressure switch is at fault. If it doesn’t, either its not set up right or the accusump valve is at fault. [/quote]

Thanks a lot for this piece of advice. I have tried it. I have disconnected the sensor and joined the 2 wires. I heard a light ticktack sound, it could have been the valve opening? However, there was no oil flowing out the Accusump and the Accusump pressure stayed the same… at 15 PSI. (15 PSI now since I had dropped the air pressure from 42 PSI to 15 PSI when I tried to reset to the Pre-Charge earlier this day)

Ok, you will need to increase the pressure in the air side to overcome the oil pressure in the cylinder. 15 psi on the air side isn’t enough to overcome the 42 psi oil pressure.

Pump the air pressure up to 50, and join the 2 wires again, hopefully this will allow the oil to flow out. Then reset the air side pressure to 10 psi, when you are sure the accusump is empty of oil.

JDS, you’re a genius! I did what you suggested and raised the pressure to 55 PSI, joined the 2 wires and the Accusump discharged completely…at long last!
I then adjusted the pressure to 15 PSI, and started the engine. The pressure then raised to 65 PSI.

A thought then came to me that the dealer may have connected the 2 wires on the sensor inverted by mistake. When I swapped the wires and put the key on ignition, the Accusump discharged again! Eureka!
I can’t tell for sure, whether it was really the two wires that had been connected wrongly (maybe it shouldn’t make any difference how you connect them?) or if it was something else (like air on the oil side in the Accusump)… but I’m glad it’s working again.

I now have another problem however:
Whenever I try unscrewing the compressor from the air pressure valve, the pressure in the Accusump drops very very fast (in less than a second). Now there are 0 PSI in the Accusump.
I am somewhat surprised, that the change in pressure from 60 PSI to 0 PSI happens so fast. When I drop the pressure in one of my tires, it takes way longer…(I dare to conclude, that it is dependent on the volume?)

Again, I’m so very thankful for your help JDS !!

Glad its sorted. I would keep an eye on it, as the pressure switches can be a bit tempremental.

The air in the accusump is a tiny amount, so will empty very quickly, especially if full of oil. You need to prime the air side when the accusump has no oil in, pump up to 50 psi and remove the compressor. Then drop the air pressure down to 10 ish psi, by releasing the schrader valve.

I rejoiced to early :frowning:

Discharge is still not working by itself. I’ve had the engine running the other day and the Accusump pressure had raised up to 80 PSI before I cut off the engine.
I had it rest for 24h until today. I’ve put the key on ignition, and the pressure didn’t fall, and the oil didn’t flow out the Accusump.

I then put the 2 wires together manually and the Accusump discharged completely.

You should deffo go and see someone if you have an oily discharge!

I’m currently thinking about removing the whole Accusump and installing a baffled oil pan instead.

I have a few questions regarding the replacing of the pressure switch.


I suppose I have to start with :

  • put the key on ignition and open the valve manually (join 2 wires), then
  • pressurize the Accusump to 60 PSI (at the air valve) to force all the oil out of the Accusump
    wait a few minutes until the oil has settled in the oil pan


    Is it now safe to unscrew and replace the pressure switch ? Or will there still be any pressure left in the oil lines ?


    This might be a silly question, but when I have replaced the pressure switch, then air will have entered the Accusump oil lines. How do I bleed the air from the oil lines ?

sounds like a plan.

sounds like a plan. [/quote]

if it were that simple :frowning:

the Accusump has 3 advantages, while the baffled oil pan only has 1:

The Accusump,

  1. helps when oil is getting stuck in the cylinder head
  2. helps when oil is not getting picked up in the oil pan
  3. helps pre-lubing the engine

The baffled oil pan only helps with number (2).

sounds like a plan. [/quote]

if it were that simple :frowning:

the Accusump has 3 advantages, while the baffled oil pan only has 1:

The Accusump,

  1. helps when oil is getting stuck in the cylinder head
  2. helps when oil is not getting picked up in the oil pan
  3. helps pre-lubing the engine

The baffled oil pan only helps with number (2). [/quote]

when it is working

sounds like a plan. [/quote]

if it were that simple :frowning:

the Accusump has 3 advantages, while the baffled oil pan only has 1:

The Accusump,

  1. helps when oil is getting stuck in the cylinder head
  2. helps when oil is not getting picked up in the oil pan
  3. helps pre-lubing the engine

The baffled oil pan only helps with number (2). [/quote]

Is number 3 the, errr, ‘sucking’ noise you hear just before start up?

mine king of thumps when it pre lubes prior to starting

It’s number 2 that kills your engine in 99 out of a hundred cases though.

Also, how does the accusump help with number 1?? Genuine question as I had never thought of that.

[quote=SeanB]It’s number 2 that kills your engine in 99 out of a hundred cases though.

Also, how does the accusump help with number 1?? Genuine question as I had never thought of that.[/quote]
Agreed, No2 is your enemy

I unplugged the cable at the pin/tab closest to the valve (circled in red on the pic above) and measured the voltage at the pin. It showed 12,3 Volt.

BUT, when I replugged the cable back in the pin and measured the voltage through the cable shoe, it only showed 5,3 Volt.

Then I measured the voltage at the valve at the lead that has the cable that goes to the pressure switch and it also showed only 5,3 Volt . The voltage at the ground lead of the valve was always 0 Volt.

Is this all normal ? Because, when I bypass the pressure switch (when I join the 2 wires, the valve DOES open) and I measure the voltage at the valve, it shows 12 V … it seems to me as if the valve is only opening at 12 V (bypassing the switch) but not at 5 V? By the way, where are the missing 7 V going?