Well last night I removed the rear clam and today have started removing he head bolts, orginal stat and alternator.
I have brand new head bolts to go back in.
Is there an order I should tighten up the new headbolts to? And does anyone know what I should set me torque rench to? I have the elise sevice manual but just wanted to check with you guys.
Will post some pics up later on. There car is in bit all over my drive will it ever go back together!
Oh when removing the rocker cover I noticed the cams said piper on them, I thought I had VHPD cams in it, are they made by piper?
If you have the manual, you’re ok for the torque and order for tightening the bolts. Just follow the instructions.
Or you say you can’t find that data?
No its ok I have the data just checking that its still correct for these engines / gaskets
I’m a bit stuck on getting the bottom pulley off at the moment. When I move it it just seems to turn the engine over . Tried putting the car in gear etc and just cant seem to budge it Any ideas
IIRC on the other side of the engine by the fly wheel there’s an inspection hole, basically wedge a screwdriver into one of the teeth of the flywheel… This’ll stop the crank from moving
Why do you need to remove the crank pulley anyway?
I thought you could just loosen the tensioner then you can take the cam belt off and off with the head
Well I removed the starter mota and put a screw driver to wedge the engine and my rench snapped! So it still not off!
I have removed the cam belt buy the head wont come off as it looks like you need to removed the can belt cover the side near the engine and todo this u need to remove the bottom pully. I have spare new cam belt as well so I might as well put this on now that the bottom pully is coming off!
Ah I see… IIRC the crank pulley bolt is done up to 220nm or something silly like that! Woah!
But if you’re replacing the cam belt you’ll need to drop the engine on the cam belt side, so if you undo the engine mount then you can lower the engine that side and hopefully get better access to that bolt and maybe get a breaker bar on it!
stop there.
You definitely don’t need to remove the bottom pulley.
You don’t mention if you have removed the cams, but you do, as below the cam carrier you will find some more head bolts.
When you remove the cams you will see two bolts below each pulley, these are the ones that hld the cover.
This all from memory, but check it out, in the book, I think you’ll find it’s like that.
Just make sure you put the bottom pulley back on with the correct thread-lock and to the correct torque (i’d also use a new bolt) and double check it as there have been a few come loose following cam-belt changes.
Liner heights probably need checked - esp if you don’t see any evidence of HGF ?
From the symptoms you had I’m not surprised there is no evidence, as it was failing only when hammering it for some time.
Like mine did, and I could barely see a small change of shade on the gasket on an edge, less than a mm wide.
But check for cracks as much as you can (not common) or porosity (common)
I wouldn’t know how to check the liner heights precisely, but I know VHPD’s are commonly too low. They should have (from memory) 0.040" standproud and very even.
I would check with a Vernier and then with a glass (for evenness)
If it’s too low, the block will need to be machined?
If too high, the offending one could be filed down in place?
If you need to remove a liner, you’re on to basically a rebuild.
I’d be very weary of doing this for the first time. Be very careful, as if you rotate the engine (pistons move) you’ll unseat the liner, it seems to have an Oring or something below.
For the rings you’ll need a ring compressor.
You seem to be getting on deep waters.
If I was you, I’ll be on the phone straight away to an expert.
There’s a few: Dave Andrews, Simon Erland, even Steve Butts (as an aficionado) has built a few engines.
Its just that one of the liners seem to have a small score down it I have lifted it out a touch but dont think its a crack as its fine on the other side. U can only just see it and can feel it with you finger nail it seems to go about 3/4 of the way down the liner. Is this somthing to worry about. I have felt all the other liners and they all seem fine!
Like I say its only a fun car sat in my garge so its not like I need it for work. If I did I would be walking this week!!
From the symptoms you had I’m not surprised there is no evidence, as it was failing only when hammering it for some time.
Like mine did, and I could barely see a small change of shade on the gasket on an edge, less than a mm wide.
But check for cracks as much as you can (not common) or porosity (common)
I wouldn’t know how to check the liner heights precisely, but I know VHPD’s are commonly too low. They should have (from memory) 0.040" standproud and very even.
I would check with a Vernier and then with a glass (for evenness)
If it’s too low, the block will need to be machined?
If too high, the offending one could be filed down in place?
The standproud should be 0.003" to 0.005" not 0.040". They should really be within 0.001" of each other. You can measure it with a ground straight edge across the top of the liner and use a feeler gauge onto the top of the block. Measure at 4 points on each liner to make sure you are not out of square or measuring on a slight defect in the block.
If they are too low the head gasket can me modded Dave A has has the details but there is major scope for cock ups unless you are mechanically skilled. Failing that the block will have to be machined.
Its ok guys I have given up lol, Its going on the back of a trailer to the nearest scrap yard, lol only joking its going up to Albert who is an ex Lotus mechanic in North Manchester he fitted my coilovers for me and really knows his stuff. So should be back on the road in a few weeks time should go a little faster as well as my wallet will be lighter!!
Anyway would just like to say thanks to you guys for all the help esp Uldis!!
Will have to try and get along to a track day or two this year now I have a remote stat.
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