Well I have just got back from croft (saturday 17th) and it was good to see a few exiges there.
A couple of questions. My car is on the original suspension and in the photos from the day the car is really pitched into the corners. Are Nitrons worth the 2.5k (NTR items fitted) or should I go for the Ohlins @ 2.8k fitted ? Also, does anyone run slicks, if so can you give me an idea on price/how long they last/difference they make/where to buy/etc/etc.
thanks chaps.
Ok, I have found a number of previous threads about the nitrons. But, can some one advise on the best springs to go for (for track use), also are the remote resevoirs worth the extra pennies.
thanks.
Unless you really know what you are doing then go for single way adjustables without the remote resevoir. For track use I would recomend 400/550 springs.
I want to learn about suspension settings and the difference the various settings make. Or are you saying its fooking complicated and I will probably make the car handle like a barge and just get mega frustrated ?
Also, who would fit them in the manchester area ?
Any thoughts on the slicks ?
Also, who would fit them in the manchester area ?
Any thoughts on the slicks ?
Try Blink Motorsport
Only use slicks if you have upgraded the toe-links.
Also remember that you will need a second car or trailer to bring them to the track so that stops any potential for arrive and drive.
Finally, there are comments about regarding the usefullness of slicks after several heat cycles. The tyres can go off well before the actual tread is worn out. If this is true then on a normal trackday you would be looking to bin them after each one.
The 39’s used to push so much rubber across the tyre because of the large amount of blocks - no surprise as the tread pattern was listed by Yoko as a wet weather racing tyre! The 48’s are so much better in this regard that i think most normal trackday warriors are sticking to them rather than slicks.
Indeed the 48’s are so close to a slick that if you are the type to push hard on a trackday then the toe link upgrade is a worthwhile precaution. The loadings on the ball joints must be pretty high - mine sheared very cleanly at right angles to the stud!
There’re plenty to adjustments to play with and learn even if you go for the 1-ways, including bump+rebound, ride height, camber, toe, tyre pressure and front ARB, if you have an adjustable one.
Even though slick tyre grip is governed over time by heat cycles, I have found that even a bollxd slick is better than a new road tyre when they both nice and hot. I used to get a set of slicks for trackday use from BMTR. They would be discarded formula car test tyres, 10 laps max, 1 or 2 heat cycles, and I’d get them for 10 quid each. Bargain! Trouble with exiges is the sizies though
If you are messing about with your suspension and tyres, IMHO the best tool you can get is a tyre temp tester. It can tell you nearly everything you need to know about how the tyres are working.
Slicks are great, i use 2 sets a year, 1 set only for race weekends (+/- 8 - 10 a year) basically 1 qualifier and 2 races on the weekend, and the other set for weekly practices.
Personally the Yoko a005 slicks work so well and last great for me so i have not bothered trying any other brands. Remember once you have driven it on slicks it’s gonna be poo on anything other than the A048’s
They always look like they’re leaning too much whatever springs you put on them. I remember taking pics of Russ at Anglesey with his well’ard springs on and it was leaning alot.
DSE, go for the �1k Nitrons first, you can upgrade them to remote res if you get really into it.
Unless you’ve got Randy’s skill and experience, or are only going to run it on track, then I wouldn’t agree with his spring rate recommendation (no offence there quick buddy ). I think the std Exige Nitron rates of 325/400s are a good start, you do need to be a bit quicker to catch stuff.
Ian
Whats this about upgrading to 2-ways?
Do you send your old shocks in for Nitron to convert them to remote-resevoir/2-way or do they do a p/x with the old ones? I was expecting to have to buy a set outright…so just curious if there is a cheaper route…
I looked at doing this a few months back but I have the mono-tubes which have steel bodies and these can’t be converted, however the later alu-bodied ones can.
Give Guy a call.
There is no real advantage to remote resevoirs. In fact they are fairly undisirable as the oil has that much further to travel meaning the shocks are less responsive. Put things into perspective… on race days the F1 boys use completely non-adjustable shocks. Thats because that way they get nearer to ‘perfect’ damping characteristics. The only reason to use remote canisters s ease of adjustment.
On the spring rate front 400/550 really isn’t that stiff. Ride quality is determined more by dampers and bushes ets than spring rate.
I recently upgraded to Nitron 1-way adjustables (set 10 clicks from maximum… whatever that means) and the ride is so much better. The car is more compliant, not so bouncy, but without being crashy. Money well spent.
Heres a question for you -
If the drivers are of equal skill and its a hot dry day at, ooohh now lets say, croft circuit. What should a nitron, a048r, 190 k-series s1 exige keep up with ?
noble m12 ?
caterham r300 ?
atom ?
etc
I’ve kept up with/passed all of those (if the atom wasn’t SCed!). And you can pretty much add 240R to the list!
It’s a pretty crap indicator though, I wasn’t racing them, just enjoying myself. And it obviously doesn’t take driver ability or other factors (eg. passenger weight) into consideration.
Ian