So these super VHPD's ;)

cracks open a can of worms

So… heh heh heh…

These powerful, reliable engines that are “buildable”… From reading what’s been said you can take the bits off a standard engine and go from there right.

So, you can pick up a cheap K16 from a breakers for �500 with the aim to rebuild it ahem correctly…

So looking at realistic costs and all that jazz, you have the engine minus intake and exhaust manifolds.

You take out the crank and send it off to Vibration Free to be balanced and lightened up to say 8.5 - 9k rpm. How much does this cost?

Then you do the same with the standard flywheel. How much is this?

Assuming the con-rods are OK, so you just need new big end bearings and shells right? How much?

Then forged pistons? Again how much would these be?

So that’s the bottom end. Correct?

Or would the liners need changing as well?

Now for the head, and this I guess is where I get’s very expensive right?

So could you take a standard head (120bhp) and Dave Andrews to work his magic on it? Or would you really need a VVC / VHPD head to start?

Then new valves, cams, solid tappits. What else have I missed? Oh and a shed load of gaskets and the long bolts to hold it all together

But just bored speculation, I’d like to build an engine or have a go so to speak… Maybe over months rather than weeks (poss even years LOL!) but obviously wouldn’t want to use my engine as it works(ish)…

So any thoughts on the matter? Or am I just a mad man to even think like that?


you asked a lot of q’s there…

but i have the same idea in my head as well

I think Uldis will be along to speak on this but for now, i think you would also want to change the liners to Chromoduro and maybe go up to 1.9litres while your at it…

you don’t just send the crank and flywheel to be balenced - in fact you get a new lighter flywheel - but you send all rotating parts including the pistons and rods and clutch etc… etc…

make sure its got steel dowels.

remote stat.

dry sump ?

upgrade oil pump ?

jenvey throttle bodies ?

ucr gearbox and lsd ?

all ads up to moocho spondoolo… but i reckon youd get a good basic 1.8 K series for a lot less than 500 quid.

all ads up to moocho spondoolo…

How much do folks reckon, for the parts/specialised work (ie assuming removing/refitting engine & box is D-I-Y)?

Vibration Free charged me �135 + vat to balance the full bottom end set: Crank, flywheel, clutch cover, rods and pistons. Apparently it would be something like �200 if you include the cams and verniers at the same time.

Bloody good value, I reckon.

Brendan, that is awesome value actually!!! I thought I’d be more but that sounds purfect

Rox, great minds eh? I guess if the cost could be spread over long enough and all the work is DIY then it’s just a very long list of parts


thats just what i have been thinking… I (and you right enough !! ) have plenty space in my garage so was thinking… keep an eye out at the scrappies for a cheap 1.8K series strip it down and just spend the money as i have it buying bits, sending stuff away to get balanced, flowed checked etc… and put it all together nice n slow… then when your ready, do the swap and repeat the excercise with my own original lump if the one i put in lasts a decent amount of time to prove i can do it… … could work out expensive tho’… pop crackle and fizz… if you know what i mean…

Reckon its 3.5K minimum … but a standard 1.8 is not a great plan as you need a VHPD or VVC head for the best flow - I seem to recall from the DVA site …

A VVC MGF lump then?



saw your post a couple of days ago, buyt heven’t had time to reply, been busy these last weeks with the urchase of a house.
And now I have to fix it before moving.
But a few points:
-yes, you can start with a std one, but better with a VHPD, since you will need at least the VVC or if possible the VHPD casting.
-the Omega pistons from the VHPD will come in handy as well if you want to retain 1.8L, but these days, I don’t see why. better go for 1.9 or 2L, in that case you’ll get new pistons.
-Crank, Brendan replied, you need to balance all rotating masses, and it’s fairly cheap.

So, as a basis, a chap std one + VVC or VHPD head, you will change valves, cams and all sort of little thingies there and port.
And you can use the rest of the engine as a donor, but change pistons, rods, liners, oil pump if needed, etc.

In fact, I was toying with the idea of doing as a long term project a 2L on the side, and when it’s ready just swap engines

But let’s see, I’m very busy the next few months.
But will defo meet you at Croft.