Was messing about with this today and thought that it would not come off without being unlocked first…however, it would! It appears that the sprung loaded locking bolt may be jammed - does anyone how much should it should protrude when locked? Even better if anyone has a pic?
I don’t quite understand your explanation…
I have the removable wheel & could post a couple of pics tomorrow. What is it you want to see exactly?
Tim.
thanks…if you take the steering wheel off, turn it over and photograph the inside of the hub. There should be 3 protrusions, two are the sliding release catches and the third is the locking bolt. Its the length of the locking bolt in its locked position that I am interested in.
Ok, i’ll get it posted today.
Tim.
Steve, is this what you’re after?
[image]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b318/r5lot/DSC00836.jpg[/image]
![http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b318/r5lot/DSC00836.jpg[/image]](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b318/r5lot/DSC00836.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
The brass locking pin projects just 3mm throught the inside face, so with a small amount of wear it would be useless.
Mine aint spring loaded though, you must have the improved version
Tim.
If the pic is not correct let me know & i’ll try again.
Tim
perfect thanks.
I’ll post a picture of mine later. The pin is steel not brass and is partly chamfered on the edge. I’m wondering now whether its not working because it has rotated a bit and the chamfered edge is now aligning with the hub in the locked position?
I’ve never considered the locking pin to be a anti theft device, its just too flimsy on its own (with the other pins released). I think of it as a last line of defense should the wheel somehow become released accidently (& there’s almost no chance of that ).
If the roofs off & I can’t take the wheel with me it gets locked in the boot (a reasonable option on a 111R).
Tim.
[image]http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/stevegreen101/DSC04754.jpg[/image]
![http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/stevegreen101/DSC04754.jpg[/image]](http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d121/stevegreen101/DSC04754.jpg%5B/image%5D){kind=link}
Photo of mine for comparison - anyone got the steel rather than brass locking pin?
Isn’t the steel one part of a lock actually on the hub? I think Turner has one.
The brass one is a seperate little lock that simply drops through a hole.
Ian
Isn’t the steel one part of a lock actually on the hub? I think Turner has one.
Yes, it cannot be removed and sits proud of the outside of the hub by about one inch
The steel one looks as though it is designed to click into place without need of a key. The problem with the brass one is that it all too easily falls off the key when not in use…I tape mine to the key.
Have you tried removing the s’wheel from the hub for a better view, or squirting some WD40/Plus gas around the steel lock if it is sticking (a bit obvious I know… )
Tim.
Steve,
Looking at the picture of yours it looks like it isn’t seating properly as there seems to be lots of marks around the circumference where it sits on the hub. Is it loose when fitted to the car?
My original one ended up looking like that, and caused a knocking feeling in certain conditions.
Ian
Steve,
Looking at the picture of yours it looks like it isn’t seating properly as there seems to be lots of marks around the circumference where it sits on the hub. Is it loose when fitted to the car?
Can’t explain the marks around the hub - there are alot of them and some are deeper than you would expect from being loose on the hub. I believe that they were either already on the hub when it was installed or were marked whilst it was being installed.
It was a problematic piece of kit and I was not happy with it when first installed, however, it is not loose on the hub.
I recall reading on here that people were experiencing loose wheels, especially if they were taking the wheels on and off frequently. I generaly leave it on and don’t bother taking it off. Just did it because I was removing the steering column shroud to change the indicator stalk.