Shift light

Hi Peeps,

I’ve just fitted an Omex sequential shift light to my Exige. It took me around 5 minutes and it looks really good and is extremely easy to fit.

All wiring was done behind the dials and the block of lights fits really snug towards the top of the dials and under the cowling.

Some of you may argue the need for the shift light, but I found myself hitting the rev limiter at Bruntingthorpe too often, hopefully these 4 LEDs lighting up will remind me to shift :slight_smile:

If any of you show any interest i’ll post some simple instructions.

Happy Exigeing!

John.

Any chance of some pics?

If any of you show any interest i’ll post some simple instructions.

Consider my interest well and truely shown!

Ian

Yeah,me to

OK, i’ll take some pics and then post some instructions on the web. I’ll do it Friday afternoon.

Thanks for your interest.

Cheers.

Great stuff ! Cheers Littlejohn

OK here goes,

First of all buy yourself an Omex Shift Light ‘Sequential’ It’s the one with 4 LEDs in a nice easy to fit self contained block, Should cost around �135, you can also buy them from Demon Tweaks. There is also a Shift light Pro, which has one big LED, but this is designed for put through a hole and you don’t want to go drilling your Lotus.

By the way, everything you do while fitting this shift light is reversible, so you can take it off and use it on your next car, you also won’t be causing any damage.

The Shift light only has 3 wires Red (Coil Positive) Blue (Coil Negative) and Black (Earth). Then of course there is the wire that goes to the LED block.

Remove the bottom part of your steering column surround. If you then look up at your dash board at the bottom of the Stack dials, you should see a big’ish bolt on either side of the dials, this attaches the bracket which holds the Stack dials to the bulk head. Undo both of these bolts and the dials should lift up and fall forward, the wires are not very long though.

You will see at the back of the dials there is one big connector, you need to unplug this connector, mine was quite stiff (giggle), so I used a big screw driver to CAREFULLY tweak the connector off.

The connector has two rows of connectors, A and B, you should find these little letters embossed on either the connector or the back of the stack dials (I can�t remember which, but I spotted them so it can�t be that difficult.) You need to locate the wires that go into A3 and A4 connectors, simply see which end has a 1 embossed on it and then count on from there.

On the instructions I used, the colour of the wires were indicated with a G for A3 and WB for A4. Locate these wires and check that the colours are right (Please note, I can�t remember if G is for Green or Grey so don�t ask, and I really don�t want to have to remove my dials again to find out :slight_smile:.

You will be mounting the main control unit inside the dash, to the right of the dials behind the light switches on the aluminum bulkhead. Cut the red and blue wires to the appropriate length between this and the A3 and A4 wires.

The wires that go into the connector block are protected by a sleeve. You will need to slit this so you can get a scotch lock onto the wires.

Scotch lock the Red Shift Light wire to A3 and the Blue to A4. Then connect the Black wire to any suitable earthing point. All aluminum and even the steel bracket can be used as earthing points.

Set up the Shift light following the instructions that come with the Shift light. Once you are happy with the settings, peel off the backing to the sticky pad on the main controller and locate it inside the bulkhead behind the light switches.

You can now re-connect the big connector to the dials.

The wire that goes to the LEDs should now be routed round the left of the dials and the LEDs should be stuck in place at the top of the dials (see picture).

Shove the excess wire into the bulkhead and refit dials and surround.

You�re done. If you don�t feel like doing it yourself let me know and i’ll fit it for the cost of a pint, providing you come to Castle Donington because that’s where I live :slight_smile:.

Good luck.

John.

For picture go to www.homehelp.f9.co.uk/shiftlight.html

Splendid, thanks John.

How does it know the right revs to operate the lights at? Does the Stack/ECU handle that?

Cheers, Ian

Cheers for the comprehensive instructions, John

I think I know what Father Christmas will be bringing me this year (although, perhaps, somewhat earlier than December!!!)

Thanks very much John

The instructions that come with the shift light let you set up the shift light to illuminate whenever you like, it also has a test function so it operates at a much lower RPM so you don’t have to thrash your car to see it work for real. The shift light is sequential so the lights illuminate in sequence until the RED is illuminated, you can configure when the first will illuminate and then the RPM incrementals for the remaining lights.

Cheers,
John.

…a light to tell you when to change gear!!!
Call me old fashioned - but what is wrong with using your ears?

Sorry, been watching Billy Connolly tonight.

I think I know what Father Christmas will be bringing me this year (although, perhaps, somewhat earlier than December!!!)

I love the new Avatar

Well I get rather addicted to the increasing revs and don’t want them to stop!

Tone you obviously don’t have a problem with hitting the rev limiter on trackdays, I know I go through spells. As it would appear do the vast majority of racing drivers, F1 included.

I understand it’s not the best thing to do to ones engine.

Thanks again littlejohn.

Ian

…the colour of the wires were indicated with a G for A3 and WB for A4. Locate these wires and check that the colours are right (Please note, I can�t remember if G is for Green or Grey so don�t ask, and I really don�t want to have to remove my dials again to find out > :slight_smile:> .

FYI - G = Green WB= White/black

I finally fitted mine today. Which was easy and fun with littlejohn’s instuctions (thanks! ). Look and work great.

Mine were even a bit cheaper than littlejohn’s and I fitted my control unit under the steering column cover rather than behind the light switches as it’ll be easier to change the settings with it there.

Ian

Does anyone know what are the optimum change up times in each gear?

Max power is at max revs, so I set my shift lights to 7700rpm for the red light and I know I’ve got about a second or so before I hit the limiter (that’s the theory anyway, not tested on track yet).

Ian

Thanks Ian - I suspected that was the case

Ian, are you certain that in your case max power comes at max RPM?
Because in most cars it doesn’t. And you need to change gear when the power increase rate has diminished, and when you change up it falls nicely in the building-up section of the power curve. Something often overlooked.

No engine noise, no shiftlights. There is no substitute for using feeling.

I agree on the feeling point but I think that’s half the problem. Admitedly, I haven’t had my engine rolling roaded, but the power curve for the VHPD I have seen is almost an ever increasing line. Therefore you never feel a drop, just an ever increasing surge of power. Given this can change (eg. dependant on weather), I find myself on some trackdays regularly hitting the limiter; not good.

Also, I believe it’s how Lotus achieved their 190bhp claim for the 190 upgrade, by increasing the rev limiter.

Tis true that it’s not normal for most engines, where you’d go through the power band and then change up at the point where the next gear was at the start of the power band.

Or am I missing your point?

Ian