Running a K-Series in?

I know this is widely argued and debated subject, so here goes.

I have just rebuilt my K with forged internals, new crank and shells and ideally wanted to run it in for 1000miles or so.

I am currently running an emerald ECU and I’m utterly useless at merely getting the car to idle let alone to drive down the road without substaining whiplash.

I’ve managed to run the cams in properly, but need it mapping. SO… I’ve booked a slot at Emerald in a few weeks time.

The question is: Would the engine be ok (once up to temp) to do a full mapping session or am I right to cringe at the thought of a brand-new engine spinning up to the limiter :astonished:



Also keen to hear thoughts on this.

Mine will be geot to the point where it can be started and idled in the garage, then it’s straight off to the dyno. It’ll then be warmed up and broken in on the dyno (varying loads, low-medium RPM stuff) while it gets a base running map done.

I’ll then drive the car for a couple of weeks on this base map gradually using more and more RPM before revisiting the dyno once there’s a good few hundred miles on the clock to get the full-RPM map sorted out.

For what it is worth, I had 1/4 of this issue when my number 3 piston, rings and bearings were all replaced following Dave Walkers discovery that I was losing 25% compression in a leakdown test on my then puny 171 BHP VHPD!

When I went back to Dave to have the engine re-mapped and the cams set up, I had only done 200 miles since the re-build work…

Dave gave it the beans without hesitation… lots more BHP too!

Aircraft piston engines are run in with WOT (wide open throttle) as it helps the rings expand and seat with the bore linings… albeit only running a 2600 ish RPM… but then again with 7 litres or so capacity!

I am sure DVA will have some real answers to this!

Not sure about the rpm limit, but I believe “mineral” (not synthetic) oil should be used in the running in process. I was advised, after my refresh, to gradually increase revs to 4500rpm over 600 - 800 miles, then replace the oil/filter with 10-60 synthetic, before giving it some welly.

Thanks for your replies so far; im currently running in on mineral oil using a genuine filter, plan was to drop the oil after 500 miles, fill back up with mineral and take it steady until 1000miles, drop oil again and use Mobil 1, possibly 10W40??

Also, just spoken to Dave Walker, he has said that it can be played in one of two ways, a running-in map and then come back after a few thousand miles for a ‘proper’ map(going to Norkolk twice is a bit of a headache at the moment) or just do all the light mapping work and after an hour get on with the rest of the map.
Probably going to do the latter…