Mr Bean
I think you could have linked the 1st two connectors off the inlet tract as a quick repair - thereby negating the need for a new tee piece.
Out of interest do you still have all the resonator valve plumbing fitted?
Mr Bean
I think you could have linked the 1st two connectors off the inlet tract as a quick repair - thereby negating the need for a new tee piece.
Out of interest do you still have all the resonator valve plumbing fitted?
ok, i’m back! Had a quick look and i’ve found the charcoal canister and the vacuum reservoir. What happens to the multi plugs that go to them when they are removed???
Hi,
if you remove any vaccuum line, you need to seal it.
The remote charcoeal canister is there oinly to vent tank fuel vapours into it and has vaccuum connected to it so that when you start the engine again next time, the fuel is sucked it.
Works like a fuel condenser and dispenser.
You’d have to cut the line from the tank vent but be careful that these vapours don’t have the possibility to accumulate anywhere, they could catch a spark and your car would be toast.
Then the vaccuum line can be removed and its input plugged.
The other one can be removed as well, as in one end it goes to the complex relays for the intake resonator valve (deleted) and in the other to the fuel pressure regulator. Seal accordingly, do not leave any vaccuum point open.
But if you have the Lotus ECU the engine may run rich at anything other than full throttle. Better to have a remappable ECU to cure this.
If you intend to keep the Lotus ECU you can alleviate (slightly) the rich condition by fitting a CAT replacement pipe and connecting the airbox duct to the left scoop (advisable anyway).
Hope this helps.
20 question coming up!!!
1.I connected the presure reg to the manifold so it still gets a vaccuum, is this the right thing to do?
2.To remove the canister are the bolts on the inside if the car?
The two packs, one has a vaccuum going to it and each has a multi plug, what are these and should they remain on the car. If they do, do I need to connect a vaccuum?
Thanks for your help.
1- there is no manifold, I assume you mean one of the TB’s ports.
It’s going to be very pulsy, that’s why the one for the presure regulator has at one end a vaccuum accummulator, so it smoothes out the vaccuum pulses.
But I assume it’s beter than nothing.
2- In my car (if I recall correclty, this is out of memroy and I did it a couple of years ago) the charcoal canister didn’t have bolts but rather is mounted in a sliding bracket, so it just slides up.
3- The ones mounted on a rail/ One is a atmospheric pressure sensor and the other one is the vaccum pressure sensor.
If running the std ECU I suggest you keep them both connected electrically and the one to the vaccuum line as the ECU uses these parameters to determine the injection.
Cheers Uldis, so do you not run a vaccuum on your pressure reg then? If it had one it would be easy to reconnect, or are you running with a different set up and don’t need one???
Uldis runs a constant fuel pressure and his Emerald ECU is mapped to deal with the fueling at the various load/rev sites. (i think its about 3.5bar pressure or something)
he’ll prolly be along later to more accurately tell.
3.9 Bar but otherwise exactly as you describe
What happens to the multi plugs that go to them when they are removed???
I haven’t got my service manual to hand, but will try to check for you tomorrow…I’m guessing that you can just tie them out of the way.
Hope you have got the answer to this now off the other similar thread…
yep, belive I have What would I do with out you lot