Replacing brake hoses

I have just bought a set of Goodridge hoses to replace the existing rubber ones on my Exige S. I just took a wheel off to have a quick look whats involved and the hose to brake pipe disappears through the wheel arch liner. I could not see anything through the top inspection covers so can anyone tell me the best way to tackle this. Will I be able to get at the union with the wheel arch liner out or is there another approach.
All advice welcome.

You’ll need to remove the front clam, unless you have tiny hands, & a custom made spanner.

You’ll need to remove the front clam, unless you have tiny hands, & a custom made spanner.

Yep it’s one B*****D of a job…but quite doable

If you are ready for a fast track course in french, just check the following post: here
or just watch the pictures

Did mine last week, wasnt that bad, but get someone to lend a hand lifting off the clam!

Ok thanks, Guess I was after some sort of miracle short cut.
I guess I need to decide if I take the clam off in order to do the job, or wait until it has to come off for some other reason and do the brake hoses at the same time. What sort of time do I need to allow for removal and refit ?
Of course the other approach is to go for it, but if the clams needs to be off I might as well plan to do all the other jobs at the same time in the hope that it does not become a regular experience. So this is what I am thinking -
-Brake lines
-stick an all alloy rad in with some better hose clamps
-check that there is some drainage around the heater resistor.

  • paint the tow hook support

Any other recommendations?

As this is somewaht virgin territory can I assume that if I note what a where all the shims are when it comes off and refit them as found, that I can avoid the hassle with all the panel gaps.

Sorry so many questions, and that you to all those that respond - its really appreciated.

Paint the brackets that hold the driving lights?
Mine only had one shim in it so it was easy to remember where that went.
Easy done in a w/e including painting etc. Might be easier with 3 people when initially putting it back on so that the 3rd can plug in the aerial and indicators.
You will need to remove some of the hard pipes to the ABS to get a spanner in (ie don’t waste time trying to do it without).
You may want to bleed the brakes twice as some air may be trapped in the ABS servo so bleed once then drive to activate the ABS then bleed again.

Can anyone just confirm for me the hose fitting that goes into the AP 2 piston caliper.
Is it a 3/8 UNF

Pretty sure it’s M10 x 1.

Sorry, just thought, I have drilled mine out to take a brake pipe in the proper place, not through the bleed nipple hole and I did mine M10 x 1, so yes I am pretty sure you are correct.

2009 a good year for posting…

Sorry back to the thread!