Went for a run out in the sunshine yesterday and stopped for fuel . . . pressed harness release button and it fell apart in my hand leaving me facing the prospect of limbo dancing out of the three points still attached while lined up for a tankful of
V-Power.
A bit of fiddling released the remaining belts but now need a replacement. A bit taken aback by the price as early research found nothing cheaper than £350!
Fit the passenger side harness to the driver, that will get you going.
Then just use a seatbelt for the passenger till you can get another/new set.
Unless its sided, some harnesses can only go in one side of the car.
They do seem to have shot up in price recently! I replaced mine in 2017 - similar problem with one of the buckles starting to crack, and the adjusters were all stiff. Not worth cutting corners or going second hand on safety stuff so I took the plunge and replaced the lot with a special-order silver set, just under £420 all-in for the pair from:
Sorry that doesn’t really help, they are nearer £350 each now! The non-FE ones (twist rather than push-button release) are cheaper but they’re less MoT friendly. Not an issue if you have standard belts fitted as well.
Gratuitous pic of mine: 
These are - the ASM shoulder belt is on either left or right, depending on whether it’s the driver’s or passenger’s harness. And, of course, the release is on the inner lap belt so also left or right.
Yep that’s what I was thinking, though my instruction book contradicts itself on that topic. It claims that ASM belts are no longer ‘sided’ (suggesting the design has changed) and can be used either way, but then later says that the yellow tag must always be on the inboard shoulder. I’m pretty sure those two pieces of advice are mutually exclusive…
To be safe I’ll follow the good old fashioned approach of keeping the tag on the inboard shoulder. I did see a post on FB quite recently of an S2 that had TWO yellow tags on the driver seat, one on each shoulder… god knows how that happened but I shudder to think of the implications to that in a big head on shunt. 
Thanks everyone . . . found one at £330 (every little helps, especially when the wine bill has been high of late 
) so best get it ordered
Should have given me a call!!!
Not bought yet. I’ll ring you tomorrow.
Re. ASM belts being sided.
They are only sided when you use both a passenger and drivers harness together . The yellow ‘break free’ tabs are placed inboard so that during a accident that is forceful enough for them to ‘break free’ the drivers and passengers heads both rotate outboard away from each other.
Using a single harness on the drivers seat and a 3 point in the pax can hav e the yellow tag inboard or out.
Never knew that, really useful, but I think even if my passenger only had a regular belt I’d still like to be moving away from them
Have you got the seats back in yet? Worth checking underneath to see what the condition of the runners is like. When mine were out I noticed a flap of material wrapped around the frame that had drawn moisture and caused some nasty corrosion 
Oh and the tub will clean up a treat with some magic sponges 
Yes, all back in now thanks, Deggles. Ashamed of the state of the central plastic divider and the floor…All cleaned up and sorted now. Also found an old style Pound coin which I’d never heard sliding about. Off to the bank to exchange for a new one.
In the course of refitting I lost one bolt down the hole at the rear left corner of the area below the seat, adjacent to the scruffy plastic divider. Sod’s law it went down there instead of under the seat. Retrieved with magnetic probe. All bolts replaced with stainless (both seats). Now seriously thinking I should replace the passenger belts as they now no longer match and passenger is out of date safety wise, although very rarely used.
There were a couple of tricky aspects to the job: first, was the fitting of the new belt mount/pivotS as they are sandwiched very tightly and held by springs (see pics). I had to resort to screwdriver to lever enough space to get it started into position before it finally clicked into place.
Also, the loose end of the left hand over the shoulder strap had somehow, over the years, got wedged over the harness bar and under the cross piece beneath the rear window. It was held there by a strip of metal, I think, sewn in to the end of the belt to form a seal to stop fraying of the material. I could not shift it so finally just cut it off. Fortunately the new belt has no such metal strip so making adjustment that much easier.
Nice job, yep it’s never straightforward is it 
You mentioned stainless bolts… I may be wrong but I think the ones that secure the rails to the chassis floor should be high tensile, not sure stainless will be strong enough. Worth double checking for safety 
Agree, I would not use stainless on seat or belt fixings, use the correct grade of steel.
Crikey, never considered that. Thanks will check it out.
Thommo,
I only use stainless where there is no real load on the parts. Undertrays, splitter fixings and trim are fine. Seats, drivetrain and suspension always get the correct grade of steel.
Keith
Well done 
The seat is heavier than it looks. 10.7 quality level of bolts is the one to use?