If he’s near Cheshire he might like to pop over in cases he’s missing doing them 
I messaged, forgot to mention about the gravity trick! I must say , even with that, it took a while to get some of the air around the system and needed the engine warmed and thermostat open to really shift the residual air out.
Absolutely in a heart beat, change it, if you don’t mind doing it yourself it is not expensive, I’d also replace the tow post for a stainless one at the same time while the front clam is off.
After doing this, you will know a lot more about how the Exige is designed and put together, placement of antennas is one…
I reckon you can doing it in a day, just remember to reverse into the garage if yours is a single and getting the clam off can be done on your own, but don’t
Could someone explain this a bit more for me.
When I have the new rad on and connected, and I pour coolant in the header tank, does it not flow straight into the radiator and through the bleed nipple? And which way does it flow? From the header tank, into the block and through the rad passenger side to driver side? I don’t even know which way it’s sposed to flow 
Not that near Chesire I’m afraid, otherwise I’d be more than happy to help out.
The biggest problem we have found is getting water around the system, so that you have half a chance of bleeding it with the engine running. If you are just replacing a rad with the water still in, then its not so bad, if its dry can be more of an issue.
Change your rad and get to the point you are about to fill with water. To get the thermostat open, you need to fill the heater loop. It makes life much easier if you have a pipe clamp, so that you can close off hoses as and when you need to. Fill your header tank to the brim and open the engine bleed screw. Depending on how dry your system is depends on if anything comes out. Clamp off the hose by the bleed screw on the engine side - this should be before it goes into the metal hose - and see how much water comes out. If the system is dry you may need to go to the front and pull off each heater hose in turn until you get a good flow of water, then you will get some at the bleed screw in the engine bay. If you are struggling, you may need to add some air pressure to the filler neck, try not to drink any antifreeze!! Once you have a flow of water out the bleed screw, move the pipe clamps to the other side of the bleed screw and repeat the process. This should be much easier as the water is only going from the engine, rather than a lap of the car. Then is similar on the main water pipes, clamp the water pipe just by the front bleed screw and fill til water flows out, then swap the clam to other side and do the same.
You should then be able to run it up to temp. As it runs up, check that the heater circuit warms up, and the water temps on the dash don’t go crazy. Check both sides of the heater, and that the pipe with the bleed screw in the engine gets hot. Before it gets too hot, open the bleed screw occasionally to make sure that any air burps out the pipes, rather than back around the system. At about 80 or so on the dash, the thermostat should start to open. You need to repeat the checking of the main water hoses around the car, occasionally bleeding any air out the bleed screws. You should then be able to follow the warm water around all the hoses, and in theory the temp should rise gradually til the fan comes on, it cools down and repeat a couple of times.
I have always tended to let things cool down and then rebleed everything, as any air does collect at the bleed screws. Depending on year/build/etc you can open the front bleed screw through the mesh in the front clamshell with an appropriate sized screwdriver, once you have the clam back on. Recheck your levels the next day when completely cold and you’re done.
Don’t burn yourself, don’t drop the bleed screw and be aware that there should be an O ring on the bleed screws to help them seal. You should only need to remove the bleed screws a couple of turns rather than all the way out. Good luck and take your time and work it through logically. The water needs to flow to work, so getting a big lump of air stops everything dead. If one part is red hot, and the next part is stone cold, and the temps are rinsing/fans on, turn off the engine and leave it for 30 mins.
If you’re really, really, really, really struggling, I’m coming back from Newcastle late on sunday, so ‘may’ be able to detour to the other side of the country and give you a hand.
The Shorrocks legend lives on 
Well, maybe. He’s not done it yet!!!
Awesome offer there mate.
A sound lad on here called turbo t has offered to pop over to help on Sunday. He’s the guy with the black s1.
After reading this thread think I will get mine done at next service. Looks fairly rusty when looking in from the front grill. Would it be worth doing the one for a/c at same time.
Slight update.
New rad in, just need to get coolant in and bled now. Job for another day.
It’s been a long job to swap a rad for me. About 16 hours atm but a bit of a novice. I expect 23 hours when complete!
You might find this interesting
And
http://youtu.be/zBNH1k7RjKc
In connection with this, I think I’ve found the engine bleed screw. Could someone confirm it’s location for me please. I know where the front one is, no problem. Want to make sure I have the correct one in engine bay. It’s on the passenger side to right of the header tank if I have found the right one. It’s like a standard head screw with a knurled outer edge. Is that it? Inline at the top of a 1 or so inch wide hose. Ta all
Good stuff, well done.
Better on yer patio than your windscreen
I agree with that mate! Just to get it bled now.
For those with an s2 and little mechanical ability, if you have a decent toolkit and gear and an urge to complete, you can remove the radiator without disturbing the ac condenser. It requires some effort and dexterity but completely doable.
It’s done. I found it a job from hell on first run. My hands feel like they have been soaked in acid. 22 hrs to do it. I know the front end of the car intimately.
But at least the wheel arches sparkle now 
And a pic for johnny
Good job well done 
Freshly swigged! 
Great news Colin, now time to enjoy the mota.
Me + JDS (mainly) managed to do it in around 4 hours !
some creative work with a holesaw sped things up somewhat 