Some of you will have seen this at the Exiges day at Cadwell, but I thought I’d post a few pictures for those that didn’t. Too bad you missed a great day
Many thanks to Simon at Reverie for sorting this out for me. Its a curved CF wing, 1245mm wide, tailgate mounted.
The eagle eyed will notice that thanks should also go to Graham at Plans for providing Simon with the mounts.
If you are interested please speak to Simon at Reverie. Let him know you saw it on my car
Will it not just damage the tailgate? I thought that was the weak point?
Boothy
I don’t think that there is an issue with the tailgate as long as it adjusted so that it is completely stable, with no scope for it to yaw side to sise, and assunming that you aren’t trying to get huge downforce from a full width wing.
The load from the wing is transfered from the tailgate through onto the clam section between the engine bay and boot. I changed the standard stoppers for some Sector 111 “wingnuts” to ensure a stable platform. Don’t think I’d buy the wingnuts again. Instead I’d just buy a some new bolts and some plastic/rubber furniture door buffers from B&Q.
In the first pic the front wheel seems a long way up into the arch (which looks great) i presume you have gone through your arch liner and are now chewing into the clam behind the lights? …thats whats happening on mine
I need to make some sacrificial element to glue on the clam, raise my ride height or get stiffer springs.
In the first pic the front wheel seems a long way up into the arch (which looks great) i presume you have gone through your arch liner and are now chewing into the clam behind the lights? …thats whats happening on mine
I need to make some sacrificial element to glue on the clam, raise my ride height or get stiffer springs.
Yes the arch liners are holed (second set in the last year) and this time the clam is also worn through behind the lights. I’m going to be doing a bit of a tidy up at the weekend and patching the clam and liners. The intention is to move that area of the arch away from the wheel. It is always the intrusions into the arch that wear first so I’m going to try to minimise them. I’ll post some pics if I’m successful.
Yes looking at those pics I am glad i have 450lb front springs now. >
I’m running an aggressive ARB to minimise the roll, but still have the Lotus Sport Ohlins 325 front springs. I was just running it on its road settings at Cadwell. I’m reluctant to change the springs or dampers because the car is handling beautifully just now. Just need to improve the arch clearance.
The car does look excellent know (I think I said as much on the day )
Now i see in what context you are talking about the 36/46 Ohlins and spring rates. I would recommend you talk to Plans and get you 36mms revalved and increase the spring rates (see if you cant get some Elbac springs - far more consistant) Keep the same % between front and rear and you wont look your handling balance
eg for easy of the example you current rates are 100 F and 150 R
You want to incease your front rates by say 25% so your new front rates are 125F and 187.5 R (you will be lucky to get 187.5s but you might get 190s)
And like I said in the other thread maybe give LMS/Plans a call and talk to them about the Cup race set up think they are decent spring rates and would have the appropriate valving already. Its good to get the Ohlins rebuilt every so often anyway
U.S. Cup rates are 425 front and 576 rear using the 36mm Ohlins. They are the same price from LMS as the Europe Cup ohlins which are a bit softer as a road/track compromise. (U.S.Cups are track only)
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