Rear Toe Link Kits.

Hello to all of you, new proud owner of S1 Exige posting for first time.

I have just aquired a set of 038’s and have read about the warnings of breaking toe links on the track with stickies fitted. Does the Exige require this mod. It is not clear if this mod. is for Elises only. Looking at my suspension I have steel rear uprights so there would be no extra aluminium profile on the upright side should the kit be fitted , and as the parts look so similiar I really don’t know whether it has or it has not…what do you track dogs recommend?

It’s not clear weather you should or not but once you start to pick up the pace on the track then it may be worth it as peace of mind (AFAIK the Exige uses the same rear toe links as the Elise)…

…I’m going to undertake this pretty soon myself before trying out some sticky rubbber

The cheapest kit I’ve seen is on, I guess they’re all the same kits… They’re all gonna be stronger

Now I’m just wondering if I should do it myself or pay someone to do it as getting the covers on the inboard link throughthe subframe looks like a total behatch of a job…

I would advise the uprated toe link. They areless likely to break and also the standard ones wear and cause excessive bump steer which isn’t too clever. If you are running sticky tyres I would also strongly advise you uprate the suspension from standard LSS otherwise expect to see holes in your wheel arch liners and, worse still, bent wishbones.

Yep, need to rob a bank at some point, uprated suspension, uprated toe links, nylatron wishbone bushes and I’d be happy… FOr a while at least

Please consider the quality of the stuff supplied with the toe link kit vs the price.

The rod ends can vary considerably in quality and price, cheaper means replaceing more often on a car that is used on the road - by varies I mean from 15 quid to 60 quid each

Also the way assembly is important, you need to make sure that you have somewhere near the right stack heights for bump steer and the obvious your toe setting needs getting right.

The bolt that goes through the hub takes a lot of load and its important its tight and that a proper “K” nut is used so it doesnt come undone easy - also note that you should check it after a few days as the shims can settle ( in my experience anyhow ) A loose bolt can be a broken one quite quick …

Another point on assembly is to make sure the shank of the bolt is in the hub and that you dont just have thread in there …

So yes its stronger but only with the best components and when fitted carefully and correct.

And I didnt even mention the quality of the bolt

Well I’ve had hubs off loads of times and the toe link is the easy bit

Getting the right number of shims does make a difference, I left one out and could feel it! Only slight but it was there!

The bastard bit looks like the inboard one to attach! Looks shockingly painful in terms of grazed knuckles etc… But I’m tempted to do that along with the PRRT, oil temp and pressure, so get the rear clam off and have some room for it all…

Also, what would you guys recommend then? Everything done by the Geary (Elise Parts) has been top notch and I’ve no complaints at all so would be tempted to go with them again just because (plus the great service they’ve always done for me!)

I had Geary’s parts fitted to mine and I am impressed with them. I paid extra for the boots but i think they come as part of the standard kit now.

I chose the TADTS one because it’s the only one with screws (but also comes with rivets, if you really want them).
Top quality the kit was

I have not had luck with other Eliseparts items, so whenever possible want to see what else is out there.

I’ve got the Eliseparts kit on my car, and it fits great and seems to be working well.

However it only fits great after I spent over an hour tweeking it, some parts just didn’t fit together beforehand.

thanks for the info chaps, seems i have a few hours scratchin around under the car to do. the 038’s are on and look fantastic.

I’m tempted to do that along with the PRRT, oil temp and pressure, so get the rear clam off and have some room for it all…

remarklima, i am about too order some gauages for oil temp, pressure from merlinmotorsport as sugested on the forum, where are you sourcing the sensors, are they all standard thread fittings? dont really want to receieve order the wrong parts if necessary…and the remote themostat installation with AC, is it a goer?

Yep, the telemetrix gauges seem like a good fit and match the stack… The sump sender is 1/8th NPT thread (from Geary’s sump nut tapped thingy)…

In fact, loads of info here:

Then here: for a load of info on the PRRT from Land Rover and some ways to cut it etc to fit


top info, cheers!

I’ll probably try and do my Oil pressure and oil temp gauges this weekend so will take pics as I go and see how I get on…

I used a set of uprated rear toe links provided by AndyD himself !!!

And he helped me to fit them…

Bad news is I am pretty sure he is eurotrotting so much now that I was the last