Hello to all of you, new proud owner of S1 Exige posting for first time.
I have just aquired a set of 038’s and have read about the warnings of breaking toe links on the track with stickies fitted. Does the Exige require this mod. It is not clear if this mod. is for Elises only. Looking at my suspension I have steel rear uprights so there would be no extra aluminium profile on the upright side should the kit be fitted , and as the parts look so similiar I really don’t know whether it has or it has not…what do you track dogs recommend?
It’s not clear weather you should or not but once you start to pick up the pace on the track then it may be worth it as peace of mind (AFAIK the Exige uses the same rear toe links as the Elise)…
…I’m going to undertake this pretty soon myself before trying out some sticky rubbber
The cheapest kit I’ve seen is on TADTS.com, I guess they’re all the same kits… They’re all gonna be stronger
Now I’m just wondering if I should do it myself or pay someone to do it as getting the covers on the inboard link throughthe subframe looks like a total behatch of a job…
I would advise the uprated toe link. They areless likely to break and also the standard ones wear and cause excessive bump steer which isn’t too clever. If you are running sticky tyres I would also strongly advise you uprate the suspension from standard LSS otherwise expect to see holes in your wheel arch liners and, worse still, bent wishbones.
Please consider the quality of the stuff supplied with the toe link kit vs the price.
The rod ends can vary considerably in quality and price, cheaper means replaceing more often on a car that is used on the road - by varies I mean from 15 quid to 60 quid each
BTW.
Also the way assembly is important, you need to make sure that you have somewhere near the right stack heights for bump steer and the obvious your toe setting needs getting right.
The bolt that goes through the hub takes a lot of load and its important its tight and that a proper “K” nut is used so it doesnt come undone easy - also note that you should check it after a few days as the shims can settle ( in my experience anyhow ) A loose bolt can be a broken one quite quick …
Another point on assembly is to make sure the shank of the bolt is in the hub and that you dont just have thread in there …
So yes its stronger but only with the best components and when fitted carefully and correct.
Well I’ve had hubs off loads of times and the toe link is the easy bit
Getting the right number of shims does make a difference, I left one out and could feel it! Only slight but it was there!
The bastard bit looks like the inboard one to attach! Looks shockingly painful in terms of grazed knuckles etc… But I’m tempted to do that along with the PRRT, oil temp and pressure, so get the rear clam off and have some room for it all…
Also, what would you guys recommend then? Everything done by the Geary (Elise Parts) has been top notch and I’ve no complaints at all so would be tempted to go with them again just because (plus the great service they’ve always done for me!)
thanks for the info chaps, seems i have a few hours scratchin around under the car to do. the 038’s are on and look fantastic.
I’m tempted to do that along with the PRRT, oil temp and pressure, so get the rear clam off and have some room for it all…
remarklima, i am about too order some gauages for oil temp, pressure from merlinmotorsport as sugested on the forum, where are you sourcing the sensors, are they all standard thread fittings? dont really want to receieve order the wrong parts if necessary…and the remote themostat installation with AC, is it a goer?