Andy, the fitting is the same as on carlo’s site but you dont have to fit the restrictor disk in the bypass. You dont need any ali tube either as you remove a long section of pipe under the header tank that can be cut to size to join the other pipework together.
Andy, the fitting is the same as on carlo’s site but you dont have to fit the restrictor disk in the bypass. You dont need any ali tube either as you remove a long section of pipe under the header tank that can be cut to size to join the other pipework together.
I am just sort of dry running this installation, trying to iron out any surprises and wasted hours until when i get around to doing this modification. All the polishing for lemans is taking too long… my question is how are you meant to get to the original thermostat!! After locating it the other day, i.e. under the throttle bodies, it occured to me, how on earth do you get that out without major surgery, or mini hands. Is it a throttle body off job to get the old thermostat out? Although getting that metal pipework out looks like it will necessary to pull quite some parts off?
The thermostat is easiest to get at by removing the airbox, then using an extension bar and removing the 3 bolts that connect the metal pipework to the block. I cut out a space in the clam behind the no plate and they are straight in front of you.(1 goes through the thermostat housing, dipstick and into the block & 2 others are to the left of the block.) when you remove the bolts and a few cable ties the thermostat is held in by 2 o-rings just pull it apart. Undo the 3 thermostat housing bolts & remove the old stat replace with either the spacer disk or cut the old thermostat up so you have a straight hole through the middle. If you can access the stat from the no plate you can drain it down and remove the stat in under an hour, if not then rear wheelarch liner has to be removed I think. I’d cut the clam out behind the no plate just leaving the 3 holes to hold the plate and use spacers so that the plate sits off the clam when refitting to aid in cooling the engine bay as well. Most people on here have already cut this area out anyway.
Is really not that hard, undertray off and get to the front two housing bolts from below. Do those after the bolt thats hard to get to. You don’t need to remove the air box, just the big hose. Get a 1/4 drive extention with socket on the end and guide it under the throttle bodies on to the bolt. It will take a few attempts but it can be done.
AFAIK the Caterham R500 operates with a 72 degree 'stat, I’m sure this uses a standard housing, there may be mileage in investigating the Caterham supply, it’s possible that it’s suitable.
a 72 deg stat in a QED (or Eliseparts/Elise-Shop) housing placed on the outlet is a different thing from the same thing in the original or PRT housing: the engine temp will be sensibly different.
But then Lotus think that 104 is an appropriate temp to swith on the fan , so who knows what they will think of next - maybe they’ll even think they could do better with a Japanese engine…
Yes I have it somewhere, and Bill’s schematic for fitting it. Will look it out,- I am surrounded with drawings and bits of paper at the monent, give me a day and I’ll post it.
However it is from a post june '2005 Freelander.
Simon - any joy on diggng these details out? it was with reference to the part no for the grey 78oC stat.
If I understand you correctly the difference between this kit (available now) and the one you are planning, will be @ 4 bhp and a little fuel economy?
Simon what are you views on the cooling circuit used in carlo’s diagrams?. HGF and remote thermostat
will yours follow a different route or will it be the same but with a lower stat?. I am waiting for a reply from the place where I bought the PRT kit regarding the 78oC stat part no.
a 72 deg stat in a QED (or Eliseparts/Elise-Shop) housing placed on the outlet is a different thing from the same thing in the original or PRT housing: the engine temp will be sensibly different.
errrrrrrrr could someone explain this quote please