On a more positive note regarding my car I fitted a PRRT stat over the weekend. I have air con and it works really well temp stays @ 88 even when going to 8k revs. Getting the old stat out is pretty easy if you have a big enough holes cut out behind the no plate as you can remove the ali boot divider and use an extension bar to get to the bolts. I ordered the kit from http://www.lrdirect.com/customer/search.php?substring=pch001190
and followed the fitting guide on carlo’s site HGF and remote thermostat
only took 4-5 hours to do and the air con seems colder as well.
Thanks for that, I’m even more tempted now. Anybody else done this?
I’ve been trying not to spend on the engine in case I change it. But this does seem like a good idea and if you’ve done it with the A/c I’m very encouraged.
Ian
glad my page was of some help.
sorry for not replying to your U2Us, but last week was on hols
I thought you must have been away as you normally reply pretty sharpish. I used the ali tube that wasnt needed from the old pipework in the end and changed from green coolant to orange. With the car on ramps you dont need to do any bleeding at all, didn’t have any airlocks all in all a fairly easy job.
glad my page was of some help.
sorry for not replying to your U2Us, but last week was on hols
What spec is your car.
- 190 conversion / emerald / standard ?
177 with standard ecu but think the emerald can be used to control the air con as well now.
What spec is your car.
- 190 conversion / emerald / standard ?
glad my page was of some help.
do you have a printable version of the front page? - the other pages convert nicely to pdf for printing but I seem to have a problem with the 1st page.
not yet, I’m afraid…
I was thinking about splitting the first (main) page into 2 or 3 smaller parts in the future, but it may take some time…
Thanks for that, I’m even more tempted now. Anybody else done this?
Nobody else done it then? Anyone got any views - one way or the other? I’m off to Southern France & Spain this summer and was thinking that this combined with a Motorsport (was it Proalloy?) might give me a fighting chance of controlling temperatures, especially when you get stuck in the inevitable traffic jam that is Andorra!
unlike common belief, cooling problems occours more during cold winter time, when the thermostat is nearly closed and there is high pressure and little coolant flow in the circuit…
as long as they open, they are all the same when the coolant is hot
well done on the installation, i have been putting off doing this mod as it was not clear if it worked with the Acon cars like mine. I must have a look at the plumbing in my car and look where how the AC fits into the system. it is all a bit scary before i have become familiar with the cooling system.
the only thing with this kit is that the themostat runs at 89deg instead of 82deg for the 190 upgrade as mine has. although it only runs at 82 deg when it is pretty fresh outside and i am crusing along consistantly. do you know if is it possible to get a 82deg themostat?
the only thing with this kit is that the themostat runs at 89deg instead of 82deg for the 190 upgrade as mine has. although it only runs at 82 deg when it is pretty fresh outside and i am crusing along consistantly. do you know if is it possible to get a 82deg themostat?
that Land Rover kit is available only with an 89 deg stat.
point is why the 82� stat is fitted on the 190…
my opinion is because it stays more open and flows more coolant, while the actual temp is not relevant. The PRRT flows a lot more than the 82� stat.
the cooling system on my car is not capable of holding the temp down to the thermostat 82 deg opening point when being thrapped, which indicated a bottle neck somewhere. the temps run at 84-85 ish most of the time and on a royal thrapping on a circuit will come up to 89-91, of course this is in order but a lot more than the 82 deg opening temp of the thermostat. I have ac on my car, (only baggage never used it) i do wonder if the second rad restricts the efficiency of the engine rad to such an extent that it will not have the cooling capacity required. Alternatively as you suggest the themostat could be the bottle neck, quite literally in this instance.
engines are meant to produce more h-power closer to 80 deg as lets say to 100. co-efficeient of expansion and all that i imagine, but as a result they are dirtier with emissions. Just the information my little grey matter has retained from mini days. please correct me if i am wrong. what temp do the chaps with race engines run, maddog, what temp does your race beast run?
My problem was the opposite of yours, its not too bad in the summer but if you accelerated in second to 8000rpm the temp would shoot from 82 down to 59 in a few seconds and slowly come back up again. The new stat it stays at 88 all through the rpm range.
engines are meant to produce more h-power closer to 80 deg as lets say to 100. co-efficeient of expansion and all that i imagine, but as a result they are dirtier with emissions.
this really depends on the engine material and shape: cast iron is bad for transmitting heat, so generally speaking you need to run cooler (compared to ali) to keep the same temperature inside the combustion chamber.
again, if you flow inside the engine a lot of coolant at 90 degrees instead of much less of it at 82, the engine “core” could actually run cooler!
moles, any chance of posting a few pictures of your new installation. I would like to compare to whats in my car. I don’t have this, often talked about, temperature drop. well certianly not to that extent. i wouldn’t want to order a new remote thermostat kit and then find i have two.
Will try to get some piccies up over the weekend, but the pictures on carlos site HGF and remote thermostat
are what mine look like. The prrt stat is mounted under the expansion tank and the only other stat I know about is geary’s remote stat which is mounted below the altenator as the coolant pipe goes into the sill. The old stat housings the same to look at on both as its just removed from inside.
thanks, i will have a look at the website and go to the car after that.
One thing that seems to be different with the PRRT stat is the level of the coolant in the expansion tank. With the old stat the level would be on min-cold & high-hot but now when hot, the level doesn’t always sit at high? (about 15mm below the high level). The coolant always goes back to the same level when fully cold though, any reason for this carlo?.
Another for carlo, do you have to remove the ball bearing with the PRRT stat? I think we did on my mates elise when we fitted geary’s remote stat.