Guess what I found today, and it may have been the cause for rough idling.
The vaccuum hose that goes after the vaccuum canister, between the intake resonator relays, was worn open, by one of the edges of the (worn) opening in the left wheel arch.
If you had an air entry on a vaccum line, strange things can happen.
My resonator was never there (the dealer took it off) but the relays were, and all the plumbing.
Check yours.
Had the same fault with my vacuum hose twice now, just had mine replaced. Made all the difference, was idling at 500 rpm before.Previous pipe only lasted 18 months though!
Use silcon piping, its a bit stronger and can be routed away from damage causing areas.
Well managed to sort out my over reving problem. Stripped down the throttle bodies at the weekend and found that the screw holding the throttle pulley onto the left hand pair of bodies was too tight. This resulted in the butterflies not closing properly, especially when the bodies heated up. I loosened off the screw slightly and threadlocked it into position and now i have a 1250 rpm idle - woohoo!!
Still running quite jumpy on part throttle - gonna try and block off the IACV feed tonight to check that this valve aint playing up - guess i could just clamp the hose after the valve and see how it runs ???
Had a go on a rolling road on thurs - engine seems to be in good health and is producing good power/torque. My mechanic, however, wasnt much use in diagnosing my over reving prob though - he suggested that i change out the throttle cable. Glad i didnt go and buy a new one now!!
Uldis - vacuum pipes seem ok. Did you manage to get your injectors/fuel rail out eventually?
Cheers
Scott
Use silcon piping, its a bit stronger and can be routed away from damage causing areas
Even easier, removed them altogether
Uldis - vacuum pipes seem ok. Did you manage to get your injectors/fuel rail out eventually?
Yep, used a hacksaw!
Actually, i always thought that the bracket was too flimsy and the design being so poor, I just cut it in half and will add a couple of alloy plates fixed with screws, so it will make life easier when servicing.
And there’s many things that I’m removing as well in my quest to simplify the engine bay.
I’m toying with the idea of deleting the IACV now. Not sure.
Those of you that have, what are the drawbacks?
The only drawback i had was during cold starting, I needed to keep the foot on the throttle to hold the revs up for awhile before it would idle properly.
Is your M3D mapped to use the IACV ?
Yes, and I would say it worked great this past winter.
Hmmm, may keep it, don’t know.
Uldis
Is your car off the road at the moment? If so any chance of borrowing a couple of sensors to try and track down whats making mine play up. I dont want to go buying new bits and pieces until im 100% certain whats wrong - wasted enough money already !! Sorry to be a scrounging scotsman !!
Yes, but the engine w/TB’s and gearbox have gone away today to different places.
Not many sensors left in the car, other than… MAP, barometric pressure, temp. senders, oil pressure sensor (forever there, as was not able to take it off)… whatever was left in the wiring harness.
Any chance you have a wheel speed sensor, throttle position sensor or the IACV left??
Seems like major work on your engine. Where’s it off too?
Wheel speed sensor and IACV yes.
The TPS went with the TB’s (inlet port and TB’s needed to be matched)
send me a PM to arrange if you want to pick them up and try.
The engine is off for a complete blueprinting by Simon Erland (check out the King K thread)
And since the gearbox was out, I’m sending it to BJW transmission for a check up, nothing wrong with it, but if the engine is going to be refreshed, it was a good time for the gearbox too.
Scooteroo,
Have you been to the dealer yet? If you’ve got the stock ECU then they can plug it in and get error codes for every sensor on the car, no need to try changing them about, it’ll have what one’s up the the duff…
If you look in the service manual it’ll show you all the codes for what’s gone wrong
Hmmm, that reminds me, I also have the stock 177 ECU, if you needed to swap and see.
No havent been to the dealer yet. At �75 per hour im trying my best to avoid them!!
Seriously though i cant see what else can be giving my poor running apart from problems with either the IACV, TPS or wheel speed sensor. Any other ideas??
Uldis - i’ve got a 190 upgrade on my car so i guess your old ecu wouldnt be much use ??
Are there any independants in your area? All you / they need is the lotus scan tool do dad thingmy bob… Takes all of 5 minutes to do.
If you could find someone friendly I’m sure beer token would be payment enough…
My dealer done it for I think �25 as it’s was such a short job.
Or you could try the “I’ll buy the parts from you if you scan it for errors”
I ran my car without the IACV with no problems, not even cold starting ones…
I still have the old IACV if anyone ever needs one!!
Yes, but the engine w/TB’s and gearbox have gone away today to different places.
Not many sensors left in the car, other than… MAP, barometric pressure, temp. senders, oil pressure sensor (forever there, as was not able to take it off)… whatever was left in the wiring harness.
Uldis
How do you fancy cross-posting this stuff to a new thread and documenting your progress in one place ?.. I could call you but i’m sure most of us are pretty interested in how you are getting on… how about some pics ??
I know your prolly busy… but its gettin scattered around a couple of threads at the mo…
you know it makes sense…
Yep, was thinking of something like that.
I will download the pics tonaight and put them on bookatrack.
Will let you know.