Hi,
coming weekend I am lookin’ to replacing oil hoses to and from the oil cooler as the original hoses are leakin a bit and it seems due to the poor quality of the original hoses
anyway, i now have a quality set including all connectors laid out waitin’ to be fitted
i assume i need to drain the oil before i start
but when everything is replaced and reconnected how will i get the oil cooler and hoses filled with oil again
anybody have any thoughts on this
cheers, Marten
Hi Marten, simply over fill the engine and then turn it over with the plug off the coil pack. I reckon if you fill it to the max line on the dip stick, then put about an extra 1 litre in and see how you get on after cranking it over to pump the oil round.
HTH
if it was me i would remove the plugs and turn the engine over on the starter until oil pressure was achieved (a few 5s bursts should do the trick). this should be enough to prime the system and hopefully the oil pressure light would go out. you can then put the plugs in and fire it up.
i need to type quicker!
Thanks Sean
sounds really easy then, great job to look forward to
will also grab the opportunity to fit an oil-pressure and temperature gauge which where allready on the shelf for a couple of months
cheers again
i need to type quicker!
so do i, Swilding
but thanks again, so all in all it;s just a question of starting the engine without firing it,
as i will have fitted the oil pressure gauge by then, any thought on what a normal pressure should be?
When cold you will probably see 5+ bar. When hot at tick over it may drop to about 1 bar, all of which is fine.
When cold you will probably see 5+ bar. When hot at tick over it may drop to about 1 bar, all of which is fine.
thanks Sean
would have had serious doubts about the engine if I wouldn’t have known this
Having done the job of replacing front to rear oil hoses just a couple of points …
Its really a great idea to use the old hose to pull the new hose through the sill - Just make sure its connected really well.
They can get stuck on the sort of “s” bend from the inside wheel arch down to the sill - I had to remove the trincket tray on that side and loose a kilo of flesh getting my hand in to help the hoses move …
If the hose is stuck be patiant, I had one bonded to the sill and it took a lot of pulling to get it free.
Basically it was not an easy job, and made worse on mine by the air con pipes …
Oh and I primed my pipes by filling them up with oil and filled up the cooler first - took about 1 mins on the starter to get pressure
Good luck !
Marten,
Where did you get your pipes/connecters from? I’ve got my clams off at the moment and have noticed that my oil lines have seen better days (hairline cracking in the outer rubber sheath. The fittings also appear to have been weeping slightly at the oil cooler.
Am toying with replacing these lines, although it’s not essential, but it’ll be easier to do while the clams are off.
I bought the following:
8 meter of special hose
4 connectors
from the main Lotus Specialist in Holland
total costs for this 330 euros which is 264 pounds
they advised me not to buy the original stuff, as this isn’t the best quality at almost the same price so it seems
they race in the GT3 themselves and found a much better quality hose
You can buy oil pipes and connectors for really small amounts of money at any hydraulic store.
They have a large range of products which you can use in your car.
Check your local dealer…
But clean them first Mine looked like they where leaking as well but after cleaning the connectors it has now been fine for many miles…
Good luck Marten, see ya 5th of August… www.maartenmemorial.com
cheers Ren�
have reinstalled the hoses today, only had to quit as i didn’t have the right 27mm spanner
will finish tomorrow including fitting of oil pressure and temp. gauge
will post a few pics
really lookin’ forward to the August 5th
have also just fitted my new motorsport seats, so car should be in pristine state