Ian
Not “sudden death” - flickering, then on constantly Your battery will be getting a reduced charge (if any).
Time to replace the alternator, I’m afraid.
Well at least the AirFlow is keeping the battery going then.
Ian
Ian
The airflow will of course top the charge up whilst the engine is not running. However, as soon as you run it, there will be drain (ECU for starters), which will increase when the lights/wipers etc are used.
As a matter of interest, I managed to drive about 120 miles from Anglesey to home with a knackered alternator, which was giving the battery no charge. However, it was a summer’s afternnon, so lights & wipers weren’t needed!
A recon. exchange alternator will set you back about �80.
Best of luck
Out of interest Pesky, had yours been in the blink (no pun intended) before you got there, or just manifest itself on the track?
Ian
Ian
Started on first lap after lunch
A standad recon unit should cost �75 to �90 and cme with a 12 month warranty.
Where d’you pick one up Steve (or anybody)? Lakeside haven’t heard of recon units and are talking �270 + fitting!
I still don’t know whether to risk Anglesey. Seems like a long way -
Ian
Ian,
If you can get one, drive up here and i’ll fit it for you.
Do a bit of searching as i think the alt is the same as what a Rover 200 vi has.
I got mine from a local company in Wakefield that just repairs alternators I showed him mine and it was a standard replacement for them
Cheers chaps. I’ll see what I can do.
Thanks Phil, I may take you up on that.
Ian
IDG
Have you measured the voltage output with the engine running?
Put a voltmeter across the battery and run the engine… you should be getting around 13.5 volts charging the battery.
Also, if the alternator is phutt then you won’t get far… so make sure your AA membership is up to scratch !!.
Ok Rox, I got around to the voltage test this evening.
12v with the engine off, start the car 14v. Rev car to 3000rpm, still 14v, 4500rpm still 14v. When it turned the engine off the battery slowly headed back towards 12v, which I guess kinda makes sense.
The only odd thing was the 12v. Normally when the car has been on charge the Airflow as it up to just over 13v. It has been cold but could it be a duff battery rather than the alternator?
So chaps, does this mean my alternator is definately okay? Or does the flicking light at the top of the rev range mean it’s still likely to be heading south?
Ian
ps. AA membership is tipity top.
IDG
my opinion… the alternator seems okay but the battery is on its last legs
It sounds like the alternator is working and regulating properly, from what you say above, and a good healthy battery usually shows a bit more than 12volts…
see what others say…
Ian
Does the ignition light flicker all the time or just at high revs ?
Reason: An alternator develops AC not DC and has to be converted by diodes to DC … what can happen is these fail slowly and while you think you have charge your not getting the most, the usual tell tale is the ignition light flickering on when under a high load and revs ( more revs more voltage to handle )
So … this time, put on full headlights, heater full blast and anything else that takes up power and try the voltage test again - you still should get 14 volts … if not, try switching off stuff and see if the voltage goes up … if it does its on its way out - and try a few more revs and see what happens …
Used to happen to us all the time on night road rallies, 600w of headlights and stuff all night really killed the alternator and flickering ign light was the time to change another diode pack … ( rectifier )
The ignition light only flickers at top revs Andy and only really at night with the main beam is on.
You’re not the first person to mention diodes to me in the last 24 hours and is therefore sounding even more possible.
The thing is, I believe the ‘rectifier’ is built into the side of the alternator, so it’s still a replacement job.
I’ll keep an eye on the battery too.
I’m feeling a little safer for Friday’s trackday now though, as I’m expecting it to get worse, rather than just stop.
Giles, how’ve you got on?
Ian
Andy… is it possible to get into the alternator and replace the regulator/rectifier parts with some soldering iron handywork ??
Rox
Yes - thats what we used to do - just buy the rectifier packs - much cheaper
Having said that you gotta be sure there is no other damage like bearings or windings - but TBH this failure mode is very typical in my experience.
there ya go IDG…
a wee job for the winter if you make it that far…
Well, we’ll see how Friday’s trackday goes.
I’m going to try and find out exactly what they do to the reconditioned units. If it’s bearings and rectifier, seeing as the thing is gonna have to come off anyway, then I think one of those sounds like the way to go.
Ian
Ian - You have mail
Giles