Looking good, something about wet trackday photos make them look even better!
Something is happening.
PXL_20201122_172818495 by zimbarbaluba, on Flickr
PXL_20201122_172735749 by zimbarbaluba, on Flickr
The old exhaust came out very easily. HOON sold me a hanger 111 signature exhaust. I hope it’s not too loud. I think maybe there are two versions and this might be the louder one. I will find out tomorrow, fitting was cut short by dinner and the fact my tube of exhaust fitting paste had gone off.
Good stuff, I had a H111 Signature on my Elise and I think andybond has one on his Exige right now - I never had noise issues, but I bought mine used so no idea if it was the loud or quiet one.
Controversially I think it sounded better than the 8" 2bular I eventually swapped it for. Don’t tell the internet.
Well, I’ll let you know later today hopefully, I’ve just been down to pick up some exhaust sealant so should finish the job by tonight.
Right it’s on, went on pretty easily. Please ignore the state of my garage right now 
Eagle eye’d viewers will notice I’ve recently put a vanity plate on the car too (although I haven’t managed to get the old plate adhesive sticky pads off yet).
PXL_20201123_151835091.MP by zimbarbaluba, on Flickr
PXL_20201123_151839391 by zimbarbaluba, on Flickr
Sounds good on the ‘rev it in the garage’ test so I’ll take it out after dinner when the traffic has calmed down on a road test
I did some basic tests with a rubbish dB meter app on my phone before and after, at idle and holding revs at 5k it registered the same max dB. However to the ear it is definitely louder, deeper and a fuller sound. Took it out on a road test, above 5k the supercharger whine dominates the noise anyway. Below that it sounds more purposeful now. There’s no reverb ‘drone’ at motorway cruising speeds but with any load on the engine it’s definitely louder than the stock exhaust.
I kept putting off attaching the battery charger, it was annoying to do with the crocodile clips. Then the cold hit and the next time I tried to start the car a couple of weeks later the battery was completely dead, registering less than 2v and I couldn’t recover it.
I bought a new battery and a new charger/conditioner, fitted it today with permanently attached charger fly lead to the battery posts so it’s easier and quicker now to stick the battery conditioner on with just a little plug connector in the boot.
Over Christmas I wanted to take the front clam off, a combination of a bad back and the cold has kept me out of the garage so far. Today I figured out where the clam will sit in the garage while it’s off the car, hoping to start work next weekend. I’ve got a new tow post, will order a radiator and probably air con condenser too. I really want to get the ac working again but I’m apprehensive to discover how much work and parts that might entail. I’m OK with most stuff but it’s the pipes that are going to be a pain.
Been there quite recently witg air conditioning and radiator, really not that bad when you get into it.
Replace the reciever dryer also and all the O rings on the pipes.
Use PAG 46 oil to lubricant of all O rings too
Check your radiator fans as these can cause issues too.
Thanks, will get hold of some of the oil and look at new dryers, what about the o rings, are these going to be something special or is it just a case of matching some generic ones from a big o ring set like Halfords sell?
Brilliant thanks
Have an ask around for a local mobile AC guy, when I had my clam off I had one come over to test/regas everything and it’s a great opportunity to identify any/all leaks that the system may have. I know a few people who have gone to lengths/expense to restore (or even just remove/refit) their AC systems, put clam back on and then drive somewhere to get gassed up to find it all pissing out somewhere.
That’s the plan. I think I’m going to order a new drier and condenser
Then I might also need:
The two pipes from the condenser (one to the sill pipe connector, one to the drier) - (B117P0051F and B120P0006F)
Then there’s that new thermostat kit which prevents the system from getting ice’d up but one thing at a time!
Sounds like you’re all on top of it. I put the thermostat kit in mine too, but not when I had the clam off - like a renegade I did it afterwards via keyhole surgery… 
You need to assume that every pipe you touch will turn to dust, it’s a shame - but hey-ho. Lotus supply on the pipes seems to come and go in waves, nothing available when I was working on mine (hence getting some made up instead) but a friend was able to source some fairly easier a few months after that. I also know somebody who recently had to overhaul the system on an S3 cup car and he got pipes fairly easily, but apparently were the last ones in stock.
I guess I’ll just fill my deroure basket and see what they can get hold of! It’s quite frustrating sometimes.
The lotus service notes say to remove the rad etc I’ll have to disconnect the oil cooler lines, is that true?
Sort of. It is possible (I think) to separate the rad and condenser in situ, then sort of loosen the radiator shroud and slide it all out through the top but would be very awkward. Disconnecting oil coolers lets you lift the entire shroud off and work in more comfort.
Hi Andy, as a matter of interest what rad are going to fit, a triple pass unit?
I’ve just gone with a single pass 42mm core radiator from coolex, painted satin black. My understanding is all these guys get the cores in from china and then coolex weld the end tanks on in the UK.
My Elise had a Coolex radiator in it, still going strong to this day - great value for what you get. I would have gone with them again for my Exige but the bundle with chargecooler from ProAlloy made it work out to go that way.