I need a new clutch on my S1.Does the clam need to come off and are there any specific problems I could come across?
Dave
No it doesn’t
I did it on my own but a couple of the operations would have benefitted from another pair of hands.
I removed the gearbox mounting (the horiz bolts are a bugga to get out through lack of clearance)using a crane hoist to support gearbox and engine. Then supported free end of engine on a jack - then lower gearbox end (hoist still attached btw) - remove all gearbox fixings (remember the 2no 13mm bolts under the engine 
- once all removed prise gearbox off engine so mating spigots are free - to remove gearbox (from below) you need to rotate gearbox circa 90 degrees to enable it to clear chassis - this is where extra hands are required
Pull gearbox off clutch and voila - change clutch - remembering to align clutch using a suitable drift
As Haynes manual says reassembly is the reversal of removal - again gearbox needs to be rotated through 90 degrees to clear chassis to locate splines onto clutch - once located turn through 90 degrees and put a couple of drifts through the spigots to align - this is where extra hands are again beneficial 
Just watch out for wires snagging when you lower engine
Best of luck - took me 5 hours on my own
Cheers
Simon
And don’t forget to buy & fit the upgraded thrust bearing. I didn’t know there was one when I replaced my clutch - the first track day we did in it at Anglesey it blew apart and we just managed to limp home.
Have fitted the upgraded one (about �20 I think) and have not had a single problem over 4 track days & normal driving.
Cheers
Mark
Thanks again!