nah not CV boot, the section of the clam that forms the boot (in the british sense of trunk)
I would love to move the bulkhead as it would give me more space to play with, I was chatting to olly at phoenix about it a couple of weeks ago, I might be able to make and come up with different ideas for things but I do know my limitations and cutting all my bulkhead our and making a new one is beyond what im capable off.
I was thinking in the future if I want to fit a cage whoever is fitting it for me can do it at the same time, if I attempted to do it myself I would just end up making a big mess of everything.
Giving that I dont have the ability to remove the bulkhead, is your opinion to zirotech the lot? Bear in mind I dont really have the £600 spare to do it, the wrap my mate gave me a massive roll sat around so it was free.
Unless you can recommend someone I can take the car to who can cut the bulkhead out and make a new one that looks decent without costing a fortune.
Also remember im 6ft3 and my seat literally touches my harness bar which sits further back that my roll over bar so I dont think I will save much room by replacing it
The intercooler wasnt going to block the number plate area completely, it was going to sit between the numberplater area and the subframe so to still allow all engine heat to get out(hopefully with a little bit of suction from my wing)
Im happy to learn from anybody on here so im grateful for the input, but some of the more obvious things in building an exige racecar I dont have the skills to do.
The only reason for the carbon is because hes my best mate and makes stuff for free to help me along
I dont have any boot, assuming your talking about where im storing stuff, unless you mean the engine cover? and all the section where the rear lights/number plate is open to the air.
Any chance he could make me a splitter?
was more highlighting my exhaust gave my boot a raw deal, yours will do the same to the bulkhead.
heat is a nigthtmare out the back of these cars
sure I missed it, whats your plan for oil cooling?
What size do you need, do you have any dimensions etc to work from?
Currently have a 19 row oil cooler, hopefully that will be enough(it did for track days with 220bhp) if not ill just get a bigger one
Elise packaging is a nightmare. There is no way of getting around it. I’m just over 6 ft and a little larger than I should be!! Some of my customers cars I cannot even sit in the drivers seats as they are not, so I feel your pain! But don’t put your safety second to performance. Saying that, Chapman allegedly did, so you may be in good company!!
The bulkhead is a horrible job to do, and requires having your cage fitted first, other wise you may end up doing it twice. If you can’t move the whole bulkhead, cut out the area that is too tight and make a box that gives you more room where you need it. Just make it out of suitable material and seal it properly. Don’t worry about it looking 100%, you’re going to cover the area with heatshield anyway. Always think that if the worst happens, what bits don’t I want in the cabin with me, and how do I stop that from happening? We did have a template for the bulkhead, but not sure where it went to at the moment.
As for the intercooler not being sealed to the rear clamshell at the back, it won’t work anywhere near well enough. You need to feed the air in from the side pods, but then pull it out the rear of the car. If there is a gap, this will stop the majority of the air from being pulled out. The air in any engine bay is so turbulent it needs all the help it can get.
Cooling is a nightmare in the engine bay. It looks like there is loads of cool air being pulled in, but in reality there is hardly any. Look at the front of a normal car, all the front end is open to good airflow, the bottom of the engine and gearbox normally pokes out and there is a massive ‘draw’ out of the bottom like a chimney. On an Exige, you have 2 tiny NACA ducts in the undertray - you still have these yes? - the roof scoop - that catches some warmed air off the radiator - and 2 small side intakes, that also take warmed air from the rad - that you are using to feed your intercooler. Suddenly you don’t have much air for cooling anymore.
Carbon, good. Free carbon, even better. Free carbon that doesn’t do what it needs to do when it needs to do it, not so good.
And get a proper fire extinguisher that is plumbed in. There are going to be some pretty high temps in your engine bay, with some fluids that cannot wait to get at and spoil your whole day. Imagine a fire/smoke on track, mid corner when you’re properly on it. Would you prefer to A press a button and the fire extinguisher does its thing, giving you a chance to slow down, stop, get out. Or B fumble for a fire extinguisher, then realise you are spinning as well as being on fire, drop the fire extinguisher, hit the tyres, still on fire, get hit on the head by the still full extinguisher, still on fire, etc. Its kinda like the bloke holding the rope with all bricks on sketch.
Well ill have to measure how much clearnance there is between the harness bar and the bulkhead and maybe cut out a section of the bulkhead nearest the manifold, I could then bend some ali plate into an open box and pop rivet that in place so that gives me additional space, ive just been in the garage and checked and theres 50mm of clearance between the harness bar and the bulkhead so I could cut it out I suppose, I think im just scared of going past the point of no return as even though ive done alot to my car, everything is reverseable back to a stock elise.
Maybe I should take the car to Olly at Phoenix and ask him to cut it all out and do it properly from top to bottom, unless you fancy a go at a horrible job! I dont need to fit a cage to do it, just make a new ali bulkhead 50mm further forward, looking at the pictures of the s1 roll cage I would need a custom one making anyway so that the harness bar is further back else ill be to close to the steering wheel.
I was thinking of having it ducted out of the numberplate area first, but with you saying about what to do with the heat of the engine you do make a point which I hadnt thought of, hence saying maybe not having it ducted out to allow the heat to escape, so sounds dammed if I go with my first idea, dammed if I go with yours haha
Im planning on running ducting to the intercooler ala 211 with 4 inch ducts, I was thinking of running s2 scoops to get more air into the engine bay, that way I can run 4inch ducts and still have some air entering the bay and to the oil cooler.
Stick the intercooler pre rad at the front. Gets some of the heat/stuff out of engine bay. Yes, it heavier, yes the pipe runs are further, but other than that, its better for heat, weight distribution, more area for cooling, better good flow of air, the list goes on. Most the people who run water intercoolers run the pre rad at the front. There is a good reason for this. 4 inch ducts aren’t big enough really, unless you are running a 2-11 intercooler.
Not top of my list of things to do if I can’t find the bulkhead template!!! Will see what I can find. Reason for fitting cage first, is they are all just different enough. The bulkhead template we have is for a Safety Devices cage, but this wouldn’t work with the ones sold by Hofmanns. And the same the other way around.
when I say intercooler, I mean air to air intercooler, not a chargecooler setup, after the last water pump failed I want to try and remove parts on the car that can fail(hence why I ripped the supercharger off)
I have a spare twin pass intercooler that just a little bit bigger than the numberplate area I was going to try out.
The car is currently chargecooled so I could stick a barrel cooler on there and just hook up my water lines to it and turn the pump back on.
Ive pulled alot of weight out of the rear of the car(infact all the weight has come from the back) so it would be nice to pull some out of the front and allow the engine rad to get all of the air rather than having it after the chargecooler rad
could you not just water jacket the intercooler you have?
I could do, but since this engine is a bit of a unique build I would probably get wayne to make me a chargecooler so make the most of the setup ive got, the engine was getting around 45-50c temps with the supercharger with 10psi with a tiny chargcooler so I would hope with the turbo running 15psi I would be able to the temps into the mid to high 30s with an large intercooler(going off Dave as ES setup on his s2) as the lower the temps the more chance of keeping the engine together.
As John has already said above, with an intercooler or chargecooler pre rad in that location in the boot area, it’ll basically be impossible to get it to work efficiently whatever you do. People have tried and failed. Agreed, up front is not ideal either because of the space available and some flow being blocked from getting to the engine rad, but that’ll be the least of your worries. If you didn’t want to hang it under the engine rad you could always mount it on the underside of the crash structure. It needs some careful thought with regards to a good feed of air and venting it back out, but it’ll be miles better than a rear location regardless.
Please tell me you intend to fit a proper cage ? 
I know you are concerned about weight, but having a proper cage is an essential if you are planning to take part in competitive motorsport in my opinion. Don’t be fooled into thinking the rollbar is up to the job - at the very least get an old A-Frame setup.
oh sorry forgot to say, your manifold would benefit from having the flange sliced in half.
The alloy head expands at a different rate and having a steel plate on one side doesn’t do it any favours.
I did see pictures of you doing that with the chargecooler rad, but I wasnt sure where it vented to, I assumed it was into the wheelwells as you wouldnt want to vent it underneath.
well maybe ill get a bigger chargecooler as inlet temps are more important than weight in this situation
dont intend to fit a cage, if the car becomes fast enough to the point I need to move up to a class that needs one ill get one fitted.
thanks for that, never thought about that with my old janspeed being one all one piece
My exhaust/downpipe components arrived today
3 90* bends, a flexi pipe 1.5m of straight and a reducer.
The reason for the reducer(only £3) is my current back box is 2.25" so the plan is in the short term to fit that while we are low boost and see what sort of noise we are making, that way when the boost is turned up ill know whether my current size is big enough rather than buying blind.
From testing the good news is the reducer fits perfectly over the 2.5" pipe so I wont need to buy a v band kit, I can just use an exhaust clamp, this means i only have to one more reducer for when I put the cat on come MOT time.
Whats the power goal again? I kinda regretted going 2.5" on mine, when 2.75" was on the table.
Sorry, but that just doesn’t make sense - lets not bother with seat belts and helmets whilst we are at it ?
You are adding a huge amount of aero so that you can go around corners as fast or faster than anything else on the track, but you won’t fit a cage unless you make your car faster on the straights ? If you are aiming for 480bhp/tonne, you will be capable of some pretty ridiculous corner entry speeds, and if your aero works as you are hope, you might not have to slow down that much.
Where do you think you are most likely to get into a situation likely to lead to a crash - on a straight ?
I’m afraid this thread is getting more and more ‘wacky racers’ by the minute. Please take on board advice shared with you by people here… we are not a nasty bunch, and there’s very good reason for everything that is being suggested - usually it’s because someone has ‘been there and done that’ and is only trying to stop you wasting your money or getting hurt.
300-320bhp is the aim, though the final figure will be what Dave at Emerald thinks it will stay together at in its current configuation, if its 270bhp so be it, if its 320bhp then great.
I understand your feelings on me fitting a cage, but ive made my decision, so can we leave it at that.
Getting thrown out of a vehicle because of no seat belts or pulping your head against a windscreen with no helmet is a little bit different than having a roll bar instead of a cage.
What are your thoughts about people who do sprinting then, say steveb who will be doing 120mph inches from trees, this is with a standard elise setup.
Never said what im doing with my car is perfect but I make my choices based on what I feel is best(hence my car not really looking like anything thats come before it)
I appreciate peoples advice on here and some of it I do take into consideration, but for the money I would rather put it into other parts of the vehicle(also because of my height I looks like I would have to have a custom cage made for my anyway)
At least with a circuit generally there is some safety in place there.
http://www.christullettexhausts.com/shop/race_silencers.asp
Could just get on of Chris’ silencers and make up your own at like 2.75"
Well some more parts arrived today from eliseparts
Got my polycarbonate windows, very light and also wobberly so ill use a velcro pad at the top edge to stop them moving at speed.
Also got my full bump steer kit which should help as im running the car fairly low and allow me to dial in 3 degrees on camber on track
And got a lightened flywheel and crank pulley, the flywheel should help with response and make the engine rev a bit more freely and pull some more weight out of the vehicle as the turbo setup will add a fair bit of weight to the car.
also stuck a magnetic sump plug on aswell, it might be worth nothing but having a big magnet in the oil cant hurt.
Also had a bit of time to fit some end plates for my wing.
Now ive designed them in terms of size so that I can set the twin element wing at its maximum setting to produce downforce which is 28 degrees(12 main and 35 upper) which worked out to be 320mm from cord to cord, ive still got to fit the upper element hence the maskin tape still on there.
Now I have no intension to run them at that angle as it means the wing would produce close to 400kg of downforce at 100mph in free air which will be impossible for me to be able to balance, so Ill be able to run it at a very shallow angle and hopefully have fairly low drag
Im sure ill have the hate coming my way in terms of the size of the plates but reading aerodynamics books shows the larger the end plates are the more they magnify the power of the wing so ill be able again to run the wing at a less of an angle.
Of course if I find there is an issue with them I can shorten them, but for the moment the calculations say they will work, only thing I might do is make a brace from the bottom of the plate to the upright, but we will see how they react first before adding to it