'Must do' jobs for S1 ?

Hey all,

Ok…I’ve been reading lots and now I have my S1 I’m trying to come up with a list of jobs that are pretty much ‘must do’ if I’m going to track the car pretty hard…

Are these all needed/worth doing ? - Have I missed any ?

The car is a standard 177 with no mods that I know of except for a short-shift.

Remote thermostat.
Harness Bar/harnesses
Nylatron bushes
Geo setup
Rear Toe links
Discs/pads/hoses
New suspension (Nitron/Ohlins)

I read something about a "Breather System dumps to a catch tank " ??? Is this required ??

Also, what about the anti-roll bar ?..Is the exige one already the motorsport item that Elises upgrade to ??

Thanks all ! - Any other ideas welcome !

May I point you to a few choice items I have for sale at the moment?

but to answer you questions…

Remote stat is a good idea.
Harnesses are very good for on track. Makes going back to a 3 point belt a bit scary.
Nylatron bushes are an area of debate still. No doubt they will improve the accuracy of the suspension but longevity seems to sometimes be an issue.
Geo is a definite must. Needs to be done if changing suspension or bushes anyway.
Rear toe links can go if you’re running sticky tyres on track but I ran with original for the last couple of years without an issue. I’m changing to the TADTS upgrade kit though as I’m getting a wee bit more power.
Disks and pads are ok as original but there are better out there now. I would upgrade but only after killing what you have on there already. Some good rotors (Alcon or AP) and some better pads (Pagid Rs14, SBS, PF are all good). Don’t need to upgrade the calipers, but some do that as well.
New suspension is also a good upgrade too. Ohlins or Nitrons, take your pick.

Have a look at your anti roll bar to see what setting it’s on already. It is adjustable so can be stiffened up if not already at the top setting.

You might also want to consider an Emerald ECU, verniers and mapping session.
That’s you just getting started, there’s an awful lot more you can do on top

Have fun

Thanks Steve…

Where/who does Alcon discs/bells ?

I know Plans do the AP’s…but not heard of anyone doing the Alcons ? I also believe Performance Friction do very good disks too ?

I think Demon-thieves do alcon rotors, but do a search on Google to find other distributors.

Best to do one thing at a time unless you know you’ve got a prob somewhere.
For what its worth I’ve now come across 2 owners ditching nylatrons and returning to std.
Remote Thermo seems a must and full geo also.
all the rest up to your wallet.
I expect to do suspension quite soon.
Dont forget the eXige was built as a track car so isnt bad out of the box…its just we always like to tinker…me included.
HAVE FUN

Rather than starting a new thread, I thought I’d resurrect this one as its quite relevant.

Done some reading on the Remote Thermostat/PRT - can anyone advise how I can identify if this has already been done? Doesn’t look entirely clear from pictures I’ve seen…?

Also, the Emerald/DVA setup is on my “to do” list also, but I’m thinking that because the engine is already on 33k, and a rebuild is a possibility, is it pointless getting this done beforehand? Would it be more sensible (and financially viable) to wait a while, and get a rebuild first, then take it to Dave Andrews (or get him to do both) ??

Wow…this thread is a blast from the past :smiley:

With the benefit of hindsight…if you are planning to track the car :

  • Brake pads/hoses - pretty cheap to do and will give you some confidence.
  • harness bar - I can’t possibly imagine going on track now without wearing harnesses.
  • one of the first things I did with my car was a full suspension refurb - stripped and powdercoated the wishbones and put fresh bushes/balljoints in. This is a must do in my opinion, as any car that’s done 30k miles is likely to have some rust and wear’n’tear. If you are going to track the car you need to be sure it handles correctly.

As for Emerald/PRT etc… you really have to start weighing up where you are likley to go in the future. You can probably spend 4k quite easily here with a rebuild factored in and that’s a good chunk towards an engine conversion.

I’m not saying an engine conversion is a necessity, but you don’t wanting to be spending 4k in the near future just to have to spend another 8-10k later on when you decide you really want an engine conversion.

Matt,

Ask Paul Matty!

Seriously, open the ‘boot’ and have a gander down the left side about 8 inches almost directly under the water reservoir. The PRT, if fitted, will be quite a large GREY plastic structure about 2’’ * 3’’ in size.(looks kind of like a small can of coke with about 3 pipes coming out of it!!). :smiley:

It will be REALLY obvious if it is fitted. If not, get JSR to fit you one asap… esp if you are driving the car in this cold weather where the ‘thermal shock’ will be at its worse.

AS I am sure you do know, but if not, the ‘secret’ to a long lived ‘K’ is a proper gently warm up for at LEAST 10 miles (no more than 3000 rpm on part throttle). Likewise, when you have been giving the beans on a track day, a nice couple of gentle cool down laps too. Look after it and it will look after you!

For that matter, that applies to any engine (and gearbox) really! :slight_smile:

Pete.

Well, quite recently, I’ve decided to fit a removable steering wheel. In order to do so, I went for a front train geometry to get the abovementionned wheel in “zero” position. Of course, you first check on the rear train alignment to get the geometry right. While trying to set the toe-links, threat of the inner balljoint broke… Rest of the parts were quite corroded and unwilling to be set up. So I went to the “race” system as proposed by the main parts dealers. In my opinion, seeing how the original setting is fabricated, upgrade on toe-links is a requisite, even if you use the car only in “street” settings.

[quote=MattyB]
Rather than starting a new thread, I thought I’d resurrect this one as its quite relevant.

Done some reading on the Remote Thermostat/PRT - can anyone advise how I can identify if this has already been done? Doesn’t look entirely clear from pictures I’ve seen…?

Also, the Emerald/DVA setup is on my “to do” list also, but I’m thinking that because the engine is already on 33k, and a rebuild is a possibility, is it pointless getting this done beforehand? Would it be more sensible (and financially viable) to wait a while, and get a rebuild first, then take it to Dave Andrews (or get him to do both) ?? [/quote]

Matt, I bought my S1 this time last year with the following spec;

Scholar rebuilt VHPD
Ultra close ratio gearbox
Elise Parts one way Nitrons
Some fast blue hoses
190 BHP ECU & Pulley
Janspeed exhaust
Sports seats with harnesses
QED remote stat
Pagid RS14 pads all round

First thing I did was ditch the QED as the engine temp would only get up to around 55 degrees C

Fitted a proper remote stat

Next was a geo by Andy Walsh at his DIY garages

Bought a trailer

Then off to DVA to have an Emerald fitted




JSR fitted my 8�x24� 2ubular along with ProAlloy rad




Followed by a visit to Dave Walkers for a dyno secession

Clicky

6 track days later I need to replace the front discs and pads, (standard discs and RS14s), full set of tyres (R888s).

Future mods include;

Play with the spring rates as the old girl leans a bit




Rear toe links otherwise Pete757 wont get in the car again � wuss

Overall verdict compared with my S2 218bhp S;

A real sense of occasion every time I push it out of the garage
Loving the looks

Don�t think I will ever tire of the stroppy lumpy nature of the VHPD
Awesome on track despite my enthusiasm far outweighing my ability � Rocket hey Graham!
Easy going on tyres
Hopefully gone up in value despite it being a �keeper�

Hope this gives you some pointers

Harvey

Great post Harvey! Must have had the afternoon off to put all those piccies up!

I was ahead of you to buy this car!!! But wimped out because it was 3K more than I had sold mine for only 5 months earlier… and mine had the same spec as you have got AFTER you made all your mods!!!

Sad that I sold mine, but very pleased with my S2… thats an ok feeling! Cannot believe how LIGHT gthe S1 is… mine was 938KG on the Nitron corner weights!!! :crazy:

AND… all your ‘mods’ are great! Just need some large heavy 308mm disks now! :smiley:

All S1’s rock. :sunglasses:

Thanks all - good post Harvey. As you’re not to far from me, I wouldn’t mind having a look at some point, hopefully give me some perspective on the ‘to do’ list. Probably best to wait until the roads aren’t covered in snow :wink:

Picked mine up today anyway, post in the other forum is on its way…

No worries Matt, just let me know when

I think somebody fitted the QED state in the wrong place. That’s why it ran so low.

Fluffy it was insisted upon and apparently fitted by Scholar themselves. I checked with QED, down loaded their installation guide, even changed the stat, all to no avail - a mystery

I fitted one to mine and the temps been 75 on track ever since. I fitted mine in the hose that comes out of the head. Rear left of the head as you look from the back of the car.