Got my new motor on monday morning. Exhaust should be here tomorrow and I can get underway cutting the firewall to house dry sump tank and over the top, of the motor not common sense, exhaust. Was hoping to map it this weekend but next seems more likely with all the new plumbing.
Luckily I passed the stage of feeling bad about taking a pneumatic hacksaw to the car a while ago, which will make it much easier.
Between the motor and the 3 way dampers I should gain at least a second a lap without improving my driving skills at all
after countless hours of fitting, due to the dry sump and exhaust system.
My oh my I love mid range, still running on my old map so still plenty to come, but it is gonna be epic when mapped properly. The twin plate clutch has taken some getting used to due to noise and a completely different action.
I cannot believe how crisp it is, very very pleased, for a while i thought I was going to give up, there was alotof work involved in fitting it. Holding thumbs for some impressive torque figures.
The airbox is supposed to run directly off the roof scoop, but it needs the std air filter to run in the trunking, which I don’t have.
The HT leads are quite far away from the exhaust, I have made a bracket which got them as far away as the leads would allow.
The plan is to wrap the headers in some exhaust wrap which should shield quite a bit of the heat. I have already made duct from the roof scoop which puts some cool air onto the exhaust system and shields the air filter.
I will have to work on heat management as I go along, things are so different on this motor that nothing I had before applies.
mind you routing the exhaust like that would worry me a bit… some wee things been discussed above but also the fuel pipe running over the manifold flexipipe
Yes I need a new adaptor for the fuel rail, right now I am dictated by the bend on the solid pipe, as I said some things are only discovered when the engine is fitted in and then dealt with accordingly.
Some of the things I have had to adjust to get the motor in were:
Firewall had to be moved back to clear dry sump pump and alternator, this needed to go further back than even the motorsport cars.
the fittings for the dry sump pump have to be routed quite carefully to avoid the wishbone mount.
Thermostat (eliseparts type) had to be moved as the dry sump pulley lay right on top of it.
new water pipes to get to the new thermostat location, once again avoiding all puleys and belts, as well as scavenge pipes and wishbones.
Fit remote oil filter
Relocate water tank
Fit new silencer into it’s location, with cut outs in rear tray
Strangely space gearbox as I can only imagine the Hewland box had a different input shaft length and it was configured differently.
Machine starter motor to compensate for spacing of gearbox.
Make bracket for coil pack, was easier than re wiring for coil on plug setup.
As soon as I have had a chance to wash out the engine bay I will take some photo’s detailing all the bits described above, hopefully I can sort something with the fuel line today.
The lower firewall which had to be deepened to accomodate the pulleys and fittings comfortably. It probably would have been ok but I was not comfortable with oil fittings possibly bumping and cracking against the firewall:
Oil cooler boxed in to ensure all the air from the side scoop has to go through it, have not seen more than 104 degrees on the track, that’s 10 degrees down from the usual temps and a subsequent increase in pressure due to the shorter pipe runs has also been good:
Support bracket for the slave cylinder, the stiffer pressure plate caused alot of movement on the bracket which I was not happy with, an internal slave cylinder is definitely on the cards, if anybody knows which one will fit the PG1 box that would really help, if not it will be a task for next time the motor is out:
Well all seems ok for now, just need a decent map then it can go to the track, really cannot believe how much torque it produces, it is gonna be such a pleasure on the track.