Pass with 1st class honours - what was really wierd tho’ was when they jacked up on the rear jacking points - car was perfectly balanced front and rear. - had to hold the lil’ monsters nose down while they attended to the rear
what was really wierd tho’ was when they jacked up on the rear jacking points - car was perfectly balanced front and rear. - had to hold the lil’ monsters nose down while they attended to the rear
Hi Simon,
By “rear jacking points” do you mean the ones immediately in front of the rear wheels? If so these should NEVER be used as part of a 4 point jacking system for the very reason you mention - it is tail heavy. In the early days of the Elise many were lost backwards off of a 4 point jack lift because of this. To successfully lift the Exige on a four point jacking systems you must remove the rear undertray and use the rearmost jacking points (referred to as point D in the handbook)
If your MoT man used these (i.e.point D)and the car was still tail heavy we all need to be warned!
Anyway, I’m glad the car sailed through the MoT - mine is due in January.
Since my original post on this topic I’ve done a bit more research. According to both the driver’s handbook and the workshop manual it is jacking points ‘C’ that should be used as part of the 4 point lift. Points ‘D’ are for a straightforward lift of the rear end. The ones at the end of the side rail and just in front of the rear clam are points ‘A’ and are for lifting one side of the car at a time. Points ‘B’ are at the front.
Interestingly the diagrams show that there is a perforated panel under the fuel tank and this must be removed to get to points ‘C’ but the Exige does not have this but a one-piece undertray which presumeably must be removed to reveal points ‘C’ - just how you do this without jacking the car up I don’t know!. So come on all you people who have had your car in bits, what is the average MoT tester supposed to do?
So, Simon, please check the notation in the driver’s handbook and tell us was it ‘A’, ‘C’ or ‘D’ that your MoT tester used?
If it was ‘A’ I can understand the problem you had but otherwise it should have been OK I would have thought.
Unfortunately don’t have workshop manual or handbook to hand, but rear jacking point used was located on main chassis (circular blue sticker) where the front of the rear clam ends? - will look in manual tomorrow for positive location
Unfortunately don’t have workshop manual or handbook to hand, but rear jacking point used was located on main chassis (circular blue sticker) where the front of the rear clam ends? - will look in manual tomorrow for positive location
Cheers Simon
That explains it Simon… your tester jacked the whole car up on the “A” jacking points which are only meant for one side at a time jacking !!! hence i ain’t surprised the wee fella thought he was floating…
83man - the rear diffuser (shown as having large holes (like the front one behind the splitter) can easily be removed with all 4 feet firmly on the tarmac - you just have to crawl around a bit. However, if you jack one side up using the “A” points then it makes life easier. Then remove the diffuser and the “D” jacking points are right there… this is where I put my axle stands when working on rear brakes (esp. if I need/want both sides off at same time).
job done
non-experienced mekkies could do lots of damage to our cars if you don’t tell them what to do - most of them want to put a trolley jack onto the rear A-frames/toe links. I think every owner should get very familiar with how to jack our cars up even if we never do it ourselves… you can at least instruct the mekkies at Kwik Fit and the like what to do.
Cheers for that Rox - I had to restrain mecchie from putting a block of wood and trolley jack under ali undertray ‘hoch it’ll be awright’ he said’ - missus has had an early springclean and it appears the workshop manual cd (cheers Pesky!), service book and entire collection of ‘classic’ non car mags have disappeared…
83man - the rear diffuser (shown as having large holes (like the front one behind the splitter) can easily be removed with all 4 feet firmly on the tarmac - you just have to crawl around a bit. However, if you jack one side up using the “A” points then it makes life easier. Then remove the diffuser and the “D” jacking points are right there… this is where I put my axle stands when working on rear brakes (esp. if I need/want both sides off at same time).
job done
non-experienced mekkies could do lots of damage to our cars if you don’t tell them what to do - most of them want to put a trolley jack onto the rear A-frames/toe links. I think every owner should get very familiar with how to jack our cars up even if we never do it ourselves… you can at least instruct the mekkies at Kwik Fit and the like what to do.
Hi Rox,
Yeah, I was quite clear about the ease of removing the diffuser tray to get to the ‘D’ points (have done it many times) but I’m not sure that this gives access to the ‘C’ points (I’ve never looked that hard because I’ve never needed a four point lift)
Anyway, Simon has confirmed our worst fears about his MoT tester’s competence with the Lotus beast and the point of your last piece of advice is well made, exactly right, and is why I asked Simon to clarify what his man had done.
Big cheers Rob - yep if you take it to Oulton I’ll def make it there to collect - reckon my young un bundled it up with her cd collection and taken it back to uni
FAIL on emissions only; was very close, CO2 limit 30ppm, registered 38ppm
Fitted CAT
Result:
PASS - zero on emissions
[/quote]
I need to get mine done in March, problem is that I am one of those who suffered the lack of power due to CAT collapsing and then when it was all spat out of the back (knackering the baffles on the way) my power was returned. Don’t think I’ll get through the MOT, anyone got a spare or want to rent one out when my MOT time comes?