Well after drag racing a few times this year and sorting some gear changing problems out, I went to Shakespeare county race way and ran 12 runs! First two were 13.2’s and 10 of 13.1s!! So I think that’s it!! I tried everything to go faster let the tyres down burnout etc etc but best was a 13.111, now im running just legal toyo prox tyres and don’t want to go slicks as its a road car, Also don’t want to run nitros as in my eyes its cheating as I want to run the car as it does on the road. I would really like to get into the 12 secs which is only .2 of a sec off my time. So I think I need more power.
My spec is:
196.1bhp @ 7797rpm / 146.1 lbft @ 5821rpm
DVA Big valve Head, 29.5mm inlet valves 26 exhaust.
VHPD cams, Solid followers, Piper verniers, jenvey direct to head throttle bodies, bernard scouse airbox, Omega forged pistons, VHPD(PTP) Rods, VHPD (ptp) crankshaft, eliseparts lightened flywheel, ap racing clutch, Eliseparts Ultimate bore manifold, Emerald ECU, Close ratio gearbox.
The bottom end has all been balanced and the engine has been mapped by Dave Walker, it is really smooth, nothing like a lumpy VHPD.
As you can see im still on an Elise head so was thinking of putting an exige head on the car over the winter and maybe another set of cams??? Also is it worth porting an exige head or going for bigger valves than standard? I know I will need a remap after all of this but what sort of BHP would I be looking at? And whats the cost of a good 2nd hand VHPD head? My rev limit is set to 8k at the moment can I get it to rev any harder without touching the bottom end?
Anyway, I know nothing about the ol’ “living my life 1/4 of a mile at a time”… But.
Why would you want an Exige head, if you’ve ported your Elise head then it’ll be better anyway. And Exige head only has bigger ports and such like, that’s all and looks like you have everything from such a head change.
And why is Nitrons cheating? Tons of people run them on the road and say the ride is better than the LSS.
If it’s been properly balanced then I guess going for 8500 rpm limit wouldn’t hurt, just eat some more oil… But I can only see that being worth it if it means you don’t have to do a gearchange you normally would
Reliable power out of an VHPD lump seems to top ~220bhp, but then it’s a bit of a lottery still.
If you want more power, the 1.9 conversion (new liners + pistons), job’s a carrot!
One option would be the latest MotorSport (MS3?) head ported by Roger Fabry (kiwirog on www.seloc.org) of Sabre Heads. No idea how safe the engine would be with Nitros Oxide.
Lol im I being slated for running at qtr mile events? I have also done 0-60 events and I have done the odd track day and I enjoy all forms of motorsport, its all good fun!
I just dont fancy Nitros! Plus where would I put the bottle
As for why do I want a VHPD head? Well I have been told that they have bigger ports than the head I already have and fitting an exige head would take me over 200bhp.
With your existing cams and a well ported stock valved VHPD/VVC head the engine should be good for over 200BHP. 195+ from your current setup is good considering it has much smaller valves than a VHPD, the most I have seen with 285 cams from that (29.5mm/26mm) spec of head is 206BHP, with a VHPD head and change of cams you could see 220BHP+, if the bottom end is balanced and fitted with forged pistons then it should be OK fo 8200-8300 which should be enough RPM to see the extra power.
A properly ported VHPD/VVC head should flow enough air for up to 230BHP even on stock (31.5mm and 27.5mm) valve sizes.
I have over 120 VHPD/VVC heads out in the field , with hydraulic cams /VHPD cams they average 205/210ish and on 1227 between 220 and 230 depending on exhaust etc.
If I were you I would try to loose some weight out of the car. Steve B from seloc got his down to 657kg without using any exotic maerials, just careful preperation. Performance per � this has to be the way to go.
Don’t see why you can’t get to nearly the weight of Steve’s. Light wheels are important - steve was running fairly light mags and other than that it’s only the roof which is an addition and I’m sure the lining can be dropped. Thinking about it I know Guy had a lightweight roof made for his.
Not really for a road car.
Some of the things that Steve did (and would not be so good on a road car) was:
-removal of the passenger seat
-removal of the heater (bbrrrr!)
-lightening the door crossbeams (big holes in the only bit that protects you from Mrs numpty, big SUV driver)
-smaller aluminum tank (if anything I’d like a bigger tank, so I can stay more than 1 hour out on track at a time )
-no roof (Ha!)
-erm, I may be wrong but I don’t think he had an oil cooler and associated hoses(as his car started as an Elise)
-no stereo, speakers or rear bulkhead cover (Elises don’t have one, and really, no bling here but I need a stereo )
But I would consider all that in a track only car…
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