It's HOT - DAMN HOT!

I guess its obvious my car and I live in Australia and even without the roof [that’s another story] we both tend to overheat. Can u guys give me your valued opinions on if I should try the following experiment? I intend to cut the rear underbody fairing panel and drop a section [approx 600mm wide between the two deflectors - cutting from back to front on the sides of the panel only] and bend the cut section down 100mm [fill in gaps (rear and 2 triangular sides) with mesh] to allow for as much air as possible to escape from underneath the engine bay/trunk. he EXIGE departure angle leaves lots of room to do this but I wonder if it will kill the underbody aerodynamics. What do u think?

If you only cut small vents in the undertray, the aerodynamics should not be affected. Do not play around with the two fins however. An alternative is to cut and mesh around the number plate and the two bottom indents where the backing lights are located. You have to remove the rear clam to do this neatly but it suits the car quite well. This is what is done on the race cars because the air comes in thru the roof vent and/or the side vents and the easiest escape for the heated air is thru the back of the clam.I am also in OZ and you can ring me on 0418 207 600 if you want to discuss.RegardsPeter.

Oz,Petrer is spot on about the cut on the license plate area.Another thing to consider is opening the (fake) rear vents. That lets hot air from around the exhaust area out. But I wouldn’t mess with the undertray, as the car’s aerodynamics rely in that upswept part (diffuser) to decrease the pressure in that area and therefore increase the speed of the air moving below the car (in the flat part), so that the pressure above the car is more than that under. Result: sticks to the ground.Cheers,Uldis

Thanks guys - you’re are spot on - now that I look at it the reaf fairing does complete the shape of the aerofoil section. I’ll take out the lights and cut the glass as sugested.Thanks again