Heya
So looking to pop a bias valve into the line that runs down the centre of the cabin.
Now the lazy part of me is thinking of getting some hoses made up from an online company to the right length and fittings. However am I going to wreck the pedal feel? Other option is doing it with the copper alloy stuff, and swage the ends myself.
Obviously I’m doing something to tip the bias back, 2 pots on the rear with 38mm pistons and 295mm disks.
T
Tim, I would recommend getting the proper aero quip style hoses made up to length. They should be more durable, plus they give you more flexibility when fitting the valve. Importantly the aero quip also looks more professional 
Are you fitting a lever type or rotary valve? I find the lever type a lot easier to adjust with known positions, you loose a bit in terms of fine tunning but you can quickly adjust it on the fly if it’s wet or dry.
You’re lucky you have an S2 k series chassis with the single rear feed. It’s not an easy option on S2 toyotas with ABS
Hi Wes! Everything going ok for you? I trust you’re planning your next rally car…
Sorry for the thread drift Tim…
yeah the aeroquip route was preferable so I can use neater joints, as they’ll be on show etc.
Just need to figure out what to do brakes wise. Cheap route is 38mm 2 pots out back and keep stock up front.
Or get busy and do it right with some AP5000+ calipers etc
My bias-valve is by the master-cylinder, its not as though I’d ever be doing a Schumacher and adjusting it for every corner 
Plus as John pointed out at the time, if it was in the cabin my boys would dick with it and give me no rear brakes 
I really do feel I have only just got to the point of maybe having a little bit or rear brake bias, it has taken until i put 308mm rear discs on with the original 2 pot calipers to go with the 308mm and Lotus AP 4 pots up front, hence my reason to go to 315mm front discs.
I suspect if I wish to go any further with my brake setup I would need to junk what is there and go for a pilbeam setup
Ade, Tim will need the bias for the gravel stages, he’s a rally convert 
Ben, I’m always thinking about the next build it will have to wait a couple of years until I’m back in the UK. However I’m home for Xmas and eagerly awaiting a special early delivery from the Elves on Monday, following severe withdrawal symptoms … I’ll post details soon.
So I’m in a quandary about what do to with the brakes! I want some more rear bias and increased stopping power and essentially I see three routes through this:
1- Cheap & chearful
2- Tried and tested
3- …for not much more
Option 2 is just too close in price to the daddy spec and that I’d regret going so far then skrimping at the end, so for now thinking option 1 looks best.
Easy choice, go mental and do it once 
Go for the biggest you can afford/justify. If they are too much, then don’t press as hard!!!
Consider brakes the same as horsepower - too much is never enough.
ha shoulda guessed that answer really!
So what are the pedal box options?
We do one. But best part of £1k. 3 AP master cylinders/reservoirs are more than half of it. And you would need to remove your pedal box and refit, which is a bit of pain if you haven’t done it before.
Suppose that buys more freedom in choice though, as you can use different MS bore front to back to ensure they’re matched to the calipers, rather than trying to match calipers and then line limit.
Is there a limit though of how much braking you can put through the skinny 16" front tyres?
Anyone know what the stock K series MS bore is? and that the motorsport one takes it to?
Yup. Gives you all the options in the world. Sometimes a good thing, sometimes a bit of a pain!!
Whichever way you go with master cylinders, you will need to re jig the hoses to suit. The motorsport MC only has 1 outlet to the front, rather than 2, plus 4 pots tend to have banjo fittings, rather than M10x1 threaded cones. Plus most S1/K series S2 are +10 years old, so end up changing from master cylinder to caliper at the front. Soon adds another lump to the costs.
yeah this is why part of me just says put some cheapo 2 pots on the back, leave the MS well alone.
Then when funds allow do pedal box, 330 4pots front, 330 on the above 2 pots with a proper pedal box to allow proper MS selection and bias settings.
I’d redo the lines anyway as I’d want to get a pressure sensor in there too.
Just work harder bitch,…what you doing reading this? Do some work, you’ve got brakes to buy 
Yes, there is a limit to what you can put through any tyre. The question isn’t can I lock the wheels up. It’s can I lock the wheel up at 130mph with hot sticky tyres on track? Totally different to what you can achieve at 20mph on a rough car park in the middle of winter.
Somewhere out there in the net is some data of a GT on slicks showing brake pressure. It shows a massive spike of pressure at the start of braking at +120mph, then the driver coming off the brakes as the speed drops and the inertia of the wheel drops. Was some crazy short braking distance down to 40mph ish too.
Going from memory, bearing in mind its almost midnight!! Standard is 3/4" and the motorsport one is 7/8"
Straight to the point as ever Mr. P!!! 
There’s a lot to be said for the standard brake setup up to a point. Unless you are having issue’s don’t do half measures. Either play around with pads or leave as is. 99% of the time cooling isn’t required. Spend £60 on AP brake paint to find out before you spend ages making ducts and stuff, that you either don’t need or make things worse.
Hmmm I may have had a bit of Xmas cheer last night sorry about that.
You still want uber brakes though bud. I think cars as quick as ours need proper brakes. Sounds like that’s in the plan it’s just when…
hah to be fair though, do need a good year next year!
bet the pedal box is a pig to do! might pay for that job.