Ignorance is NOT bliss!!!

This post isn’t me having a go at anyone, just trying to offer some help and maybe a word of warning.

As regualar readers will know I currently have an oil temp issue when on track and I am in the middle of fixing a fuel pressue issue.

How do I know about these problems??? Because I measure various temps and pressures, so that I can fix any problems before they cause something to break. So I guess I am aiming this at those of you without any auxillary gauges.

The thing that worries me guys, is that I have the same car as the rest of you, so if I am having the problems, then its a good bet that you are to. Even you guys with honda and audi conversions are not going to be immune to these little issues.

Please do not think I am scare mongering here, I just care about my fellow enthusiasts and don’t want to see anyone with a big bill and the associated stress and hassle that mechanicl problems can cause.

A drop in fuel pressure will cause your engine to run lean and over time, it will melt (tThis time can be measured in seconds in extreme cases).

A drop in oil pressure, even for only a few seconds can kill an engine. I know I have done it. Long fast corners and sticky tyres connected to a well handleing car can throw all of the oil to one side of the sump and your oil pump sucks fresh air, and hey presto you’ve spun a bearing.

Oil temp is also important, oil as we know has an effective operating temp range. Just like thrashing your car when cold, giving it stick when the oil reperesents knats piss (because its so hot) is just as, if not more harmful.

I know gauges aren’t cheap especially if your not fitting them yourselves, so I have been trying to think how to help out.

I reckon I could bring some testing gear to croft, that would test fuel pressure. I could rig up an auxilary gauge to a bit of pipe with the right connectors so it could be fitted in 5 minutes just after the fuel filter. The gauge could be hand held in the car and the fuel pressure monitored on your next outing on track.

For oil temp, I am sure I could rig up a dip stick type temp probe (similiar to that used on some MOT tests) so that people could dip there oil and see what the temp is when they come off track.

Oil pressure is more tricky, as the pressure sender isn’t just a quick in and out thing to fit. Hmmmmmmmmmm, i’ll have a think about that one. Anyone else got any ideas???

I reckon though that one of the SPA dual oil temp / pressure gauges should be on everyones Christmas list.

Better to be safe than sorry I guess.


I do agreew ith you and have seriously missed my Oil pRessure gauge which was stock on my old MR2!

But I prefer analouge style gauges as I can see them better int eh light than digital ones… So have been looking at Demon Theives and trying to pair up a oil pressure / oil temp with needles gauages, a few choices but I just need to find out what threads where and how and what sizes and wiring and AARRRGGGHHH!!!

But I do agree with you there!

How did you sort your fuel pressure BTW?

Sean, what was the thread size of the oil pressure sender? was it 1/8th NPT again?

Been looking at analouge gauges today, I know you said you can get a deal on the SPA gauges but do they do any analouge ones (with the needle )?


Following my ramble on Monday I can confirm the thread on the oil filter head is 1/8 x 27 NPT same as the sensor from SPA. There is a 90 degree union to allow space for the standard fit oil pressure switch.

What you cant easy do is add a “T” peice at that point for both sensors - The advanatge of the SPA gauge is that you can use the alarm output to go to the existing oil pressure light on the stack - think that what Sean did ?

If you want to use both senders the best way is to use some -3 600 hose and place a “T” peice remote which is what I did.

Excellent! Thanks Andy, it was a bit of a ramble But I think it’ll make more sense when I’m under the car again (yes… Again! LOL!), I’ll be putting new CV boots on the other side now so will have everything apart…

I think I can get the Telemetrix Smith gauges for an OK price, analouge, white backed with ali bezel so should match the stack (BLING!)…

I’ll keep you all posted as to how I get on and hopefully get another choice for those who can’t see digital gauges with mole like eyes

I actually agree with you on the analogue gauges, you can just glance at an analogue gauge and know by the position of the needle, what is happening. With the digital guages you do have to actually “read” the gauge. The only reason I like the SPA’s is because you get two in one.

Yeah i plumbed the external alarm wire from the SPA’s into the existing oil presure light.

No mate sorry, don’t have any contacts or analogue gauges. I simply know the guys at SPA quite well as we have used so many of there gauges on customers cars and stuff, so they give me a good deal.



I fitted those Telemetrix gauges a few months back. They look pretty cool and go nicely with the stack dash. Mine are fitted to one of eliseparts dashpod thingies. I got the one that replaces the left dash panel so that I could keep my cd player. Went for an oil temp gauge and a clock though to try and stop me from being late for work.

Be careful if you are using the eliseparts sump plug adapter for the oil sender as its not the best of designs and i ended up shearing it off in my sump when i tightened it up

I,ve changed my oil pressure switch for a 17psi one instead of the standard 5psi one and have fitted a warning light just in front of my wheel so hopefully I,ll get enough warning of low pressure.

Some oiccies of how I did mine - Thanks to Martin and Steve Edwards who thought up the idea. If anyone want to know the exact parts needed - PM me

Also - temp sender is in the sump plug - Eliseparts version

Oh and on the RHS there is a blanking gromment through the bulkhead that you can easy get to when the rear WAL is out to get your wires into the cabin





SPA guages

need this as well

Sean, re - oil cooling - do you measure the coolant temperature increase across the engine? (i.e. “pump” in to head out). I’m just a bit concerned that you’re running an EWP with a large oil to water heat exchanger. The coolant flow will be reduced massively compared to the stock pump and I’m not sure it can remove the heat from the engine, so instead the heat is going to the oil (it needs to go somewhere) and this is also being cooled by the oil/water cooler heat exchanger.

What sort of heat exchanger is it?