Need some help. Can’t get the car to idle, revs just drop off and engine stalls.
Had a problem on Sunday, whenever I approached a junction or roundabout the revs would fall and unless I managed to keep my right foot tickling the throttle the engine would cut out. This was only after the engine had warmed up.
Had a look through service notes and followed the starting procedure, car seemed to idle okay, went for a long run and still okay. Parked in driveway to open garage door, idle dropped off and engine cut out. Restarted but had to keep adjusting throttle to prevent stalling.
So need some advice (and nobody suggest getting an electric garage door). Have had a look through some of the previous threads but still unsure what’s wrong.
Would appreciate an idiot’s guide to checking IAC valve, also where and how to adjust idle speed (or is this solely done by the ECU).
Nope, because you don’t really adjust it.
The IACV is the one, and it resets itself every time you turn on the ignition, like which postion it is in, how far it can travel, etc, part of the whiring noises you hear.
Then the ECU just reads rpm and opens or closes the IACV accordingly to keep it running.
Simple. Except that idle also relies on all sort of vaccuum hoses that I eliminated from my car.
Things like MAP sensor, vacuum accumulator, vaccuum from the top of the head and most importantly, the butterfly valve. Nobody has got it connected and yet all the caccuum lines are there.
When I rebuilt my engine I checked all these and found that one hose was worn through because of rubbing with an edge. Check that.
So, back to the IACV, follow this procdure:
-take it off,
-clean it with lots of WD40 and a small brush
-connect it electrically
-see that a friend turns on and off the ingition so you can
-check its operation while sprayoing even more WD40 and cleaning it with a brush.
If your vaccum hoses are tight and the IACV is working, your idle has got to be perfect with the std ECU.
If Emerald, then, have you been playing with the idle settings?