I’ve been suffering the common gear grinding on my 2007 S. I’m going to have a shot at adjusting the gear cables and wondered if there is a tried and tested method for best adjustment.
I have the cover off and tools in the car ready so that I can adjust every so often while out in the car.
Any experience would be very helpful.
Ta
Had a go at adjusting the cables, adjusted both cables so that they would no longer select a gear, both directions (tighter and looser) with the theory that I should find the sweet spot somewhere in the middle. Along with replacing the oil with MT90.
It seems to have eliminated the slight grind going up to 3rd but the grind going down from 3rd to 2nd has not changed at all, regardless of the cable adjustment. Starting to think that it must be the syncro on 2nd that is shot. I’m a little reluctant to have the gearbox stripped, inspected and repaired as it likey just to happen again, damn cheese gearboxes!
I think this is something I’ll be having to do come the spring, as my gear selection can at times be a bit hit and miss.
I don’t suffer the grinding, but do occassionally have to fish around for the gear I’m after - especially coming back down the box to find 4th and 3rd.
If you are lucky it might just be adjustment you need, sounds promising if it isnt grinding. I’m thinking of getting another gearbox built up as at 300bhp its just a matter of time I guess.
Does anyone know if the box is exactly the same as that from the Celica sport190? Same ratios etc etc?
Cheers.
[quote=JP1]If you are lucky it might just be adjustment you need, sounds promising if it isnt grinding. I’m thinking of getting another gearbox built up as at 300bhp its just a matter of time I guess.
Does anyone know if the box is exactly the same as that from the Celica sport190? Same ratios etc etc?
Cheers. [/quote]
The 190 celica box is the same, albeit has a slightly longer 6th gear. To be honest, the longer sixth is more suited to high powered exige anyway!
You thinking of going for jubu 3/4th gears?
Possibly going for the Jubu, that said it seems like my gearbox has synchro issues over the gears breaking themselves.
Was thinking that I could just put a celica box in for now then consider what to do with mine when it gets a refresh.
Thinking about swapping a celica one in myself, cant be that hard juggling a few spanners 
[quote=JP1]Possibly going for the Jubu, that said it seems like my gearbox has synchro issues over the gears breaking themselves.
Was thinking that I could just put a celica box in for now then consider what to do with mine when it gets a refresh.
Thinking about swapping a celica one in myself, cant be that hard juggling a few spanners [/quote]
I’ve swapped a few gearboxes myself on the vx220 (very tedious dropping it out below), but the exige has extra pipe work with the chargecooler/intercooler. Complete pain if I’m honest - I got mine done at such a good cost that it wasnt worth my own time.
I’ve pretty much taken it off the road now as my second car is more suited to the long commutes and oncoming winter weather. So I dont mind the challenge of getting the box out over a couple of weekends if needed.
Its prob beneficial for me to learn the mechanics of this particular car a little more anyway, could help out later just being familiar with all its gizzards.
Would be great if you could take pictures and do a narrative etc.
Probably gonna do mine in the spring when I’ve got my garage sorted out (moving house to Dudlaay)
Anyone know the best place to get hold of a workshop manual before I start removing the gearbox?
I guess most of it will be obvious as I go along but could be useful for torque settings and may avoid a few pittfalls.
cheers.
The manuals pretty vague…
Removal of clutch assembly:
The transmission may be removed from below:
Refitting clutch assembly
Thanks for for that Nick.
Just gotta get stuck in then I guess. Might just have one more blast tomorrow then make a start on it.
I’ve only ever aligned clutches by eye, not using this universal alignment tool. Ive never had issues refitting the gearbox after, is there something different about the toyota box that requires one?
[quote=JP1]Thanks for for that Nick.
Just gotta get stuck in then I guess. Might just have one more blast tomorrow then make a start on it.
I’ve only ever aligned clutches by eye, not using this universal alignment tool. Ive never had issues refitting the gearbox after, is there something different about the toyota box that requires one? [/quote]
No probs.
I�ve changed 3x boxes on vx220�s, but not on the exige (wasn�t worth my time tbh). Principle is the same though.
I�ve never used an alignment tool, but probably worth getting on. The problem I had with the vx is that there is very little room to wiggle the gearbox out underneath the car between the ebngine and subframe. Getting the box back in is a complete nightmare, and you don�t want to be trying to forcing the box on if the clutch is not aligned properly. I also don�t bother removing the driveshaft completely. I take the bolt out the bottom wishbone leaving the hubs still attached and then pull the driveshafts out front the gearbox. Saves a little time.
As said previously, it is a pain of a job though.
Biggest thread drift ever lol!
Had a go at double de-clutching going down into second and it was still griding going in 
Not sure what to think now, synchro still, cable adjustment, feck knows…
Will go shake some bones at it.
Are you fully double clutching old skool style�.
i.e. between gears neutral is selected � foot of the clutch � blip the throttle � then back down on the clutch � then into second.
The reason I ask is that I used to just blip the throttle with heal and toe between changes without depressing the clutch in neutral � when my syncro went I still couldn�t get 2nd with just a blip of the throttle unless I fully double de-clutched the change. I actually didn�t realise it made a difference!
If it still grinding whilst double clutching then it can�t be the syncro. You should able to change gears smoothly without any synchromesh what so ever using this method.
Tried to use the proper technique, much cluch mashing between changes. Could just have been bad technique tho I guess.
I can get it to go into second gear with little resistance, just a little clunk/grind as it pops in. Doesnt seem to matter if I’m changing normally, heel and toe or doulble de-clutching.
Only way I can get it to go in smoothly is if I change very slowly at much lower revs. Not quite the snicky quick change I would like it to be.
When my syncro went it was between 3-2 (its was fine 1-2 because it uses a different syncro ring), it was literally like changing gear without using the clutch. The only way I could get into 2nd gear from 3rd was to stop the car completely, or double clutch the change. I used the car for 14 months like this as I go so use to double clutching every change. Eventually had the box rebuilt with Jubu (after 3rd gear failure due to the power) and of course had the synchromesh replaced at the same time.
I still double clutch now as there is a lot of strain on the syncros with a high revving motor (and they are made of cheese!) particularly when using 2nd for the hairpins at Donnington, Knockhill etc. and keeping it in the power band.
Mines nowhere near as bad as yours was so maybe there is some hope, I’ll get it checked by a specialist before tearing the gearbox out. Will eventually need to anyways due to the power as you mentioned. That and the clutch bite point is too high for my preference.
Thanks again Nick, I appreciate the time you’ve spent going over this with me.
+1 for Nick too …
Also advised me 