I have a pair of very noisy fron wheel Bearings, has anyone replaced these, is it a difficult job?
I am working in Newbury at the moment any reccomendations on a local garage that I could trust to do the work?
Cheers
Roy
They can be replaced quite easy … if you have a hydraulic press …
Basic you have to unbolt the top steering arm ( not losing the shims ) , the bottom swival joint - bit of a pain to access the bolts and then the complete upright comes off.
Undo the M16 nut and bolt to remove the drive flange, remove circlips ( if there !!) and heat the upright in a bucket of boiling water ( or oven at 100 degree ) for a good 10-15 mins and then push bearing race out with press.
Clean it all up and heat upright again to drop new bearing in ( maybe gentle use of press needed ! )
Reassemble everything - suggest new M16 bolt and nyloc as they are torqued up quite high and use duralac on any ali/metal interfaces.
You will ideally need a crows foot “socket” for torquing up the two of the four swival bolts …
Make sure you get genuine timkin bearing races though - nothing else will do IMO - Paul Matty have them on the shelf at about 35 quid - main dealer price is double that.
Notes - Circlips need a good pair of circlip pliers, you need a torque wrench upto 220 n/m. Complete new upright with bearing installed is only about 120 quid from a dealer …
Hope that helps
Did you get this work sorted…if so how long did it take/cost?
Steve,
[email protected] did the work trackside at Donny Park. No idea what was charged or how happy Roy was with the work though!
regs,
Jonny
BaT/BLiNK
cheers Jonny…seems Blink get everywhere now…are they interested in regular servicing/repair as well as the Honda conversion work?
Steve,
BLiNK Motorsport Ltd (Rich Breland and I) will be at all the BaT events, primarily to support our own fleet of track cars, but Rich will also be doing trackside support for Caterham/Elise/Exige and obviously the Honda-Power cars.
The plan is that the customers of the Honda-conversion can use BaT track days to get the car serviced and maintained etc.
So, to summarise. Yes.
regs,
J5
BaT/BLiNK
Roy
They can be replaced quite easy … if you have a hydraulic press …
Basic you have to unbolt the top steering arm ( not losing the shims ) , the bottom swival joint - bit of a pain to access the bolts and then the complete upright comes off.
Undo the M16 nut and bolt to remove the drive flange, remove circlips ( if there !!) and heat the upright in a bucket of boiling water ( or oven at 100 degree ) for a good 10-15 mins and then push bearing race out with press.
Clean it all up and heat upright again to drop new bearing in ( maybe gentle use of press needed ! )
Reassemble everything - suggest new M16 bolt and nyloc as they are torqued up quite high and use duralac on any ali/metal interfaces.
You will ideally need a crows foot “socket” for torquing up the two of the four swival bolts …
Make sure you get genuine timkin bearing races though - nothing else will do IMO - Paul Matty have them on the shelf at about 35 quid - main dealer price is double that.
Notes - Circlips need a good pair of circlip pliers, you need a torque wrench upto 220 n/m. Complete new upright with bearing installed is only about 120 quid from a dealer …
Hope that helps
Does it makes any difference if you heat up the hub before pressing out the bearing?? thought the bearing and the Hub will expand the same… or will the hub expand slightly more then the bearing if you put it in the oven…??
Before fitting the new bearing its of course a must to heat the hub first…
Just like to remove the bearing now, and have it ready before my new bearing arrives…
I need a hub bearing replaced and found this when reading around… none of its verified but it must be a good starting point for all your info…
Old MG Rover P/N GHK 1366
New MGR P/N for all MGF/MGTF and Metro is
RFM000050 hub bearing kit , including hub nut and 2 retaining clips
Wheel bearing / Radlager / Timken JRM 3938A
QH QWB661*
QH QWB594
Technostart KIT661
SKF VKBA1452 *
AP WBK405
BRT BRT994*
BRT BRT907
ABK ABK994
RING RWB105 *
BK BK446
Timken JRM3938A
if you want to save some money and you haven’t got a bearing press, take the upright off yourself and take it to your local garage who’ll push it out and push in your new bearing for about a tenner