Toyota coil pack plug.
I need to repair the wiring going into the plug for the coil pack. Unfortunately there is only about 1cm of wire left poking out of the plug so not much to splice into to make the repair. Anyone know how to get the connector out of the plug to add a longer length.
There is a good picture of the plug in these shift light install instructions. The route of the problem
Cheers
Will
Can it be removed for splicing ?
If so It would be so much easier on a bench.
1 cm is fine for a soldered / heatshrunk joint.
Not much scope for error though …
I,m 150 miles away , but if it,s removable I,d happily solder/heatshrink it.
I,m 150 miles away , but if it,s removable I,d happily solder/heatshrink it.
LSD = Local Soldering Directorate
Just trying to help m8 …
as I,ve got time on my hands … buggar
Just trying to help m8 …
as I,ve got time on my hands … buggar
I know, mate. Hope the job picks up over the next few weeks so you can buy an Easter egg
Thanks lads, not really a clean option to remove it as its part of the whole loom. Guess I could cut all 4 wires further back to remove the plug and get it on the bench, then extend the short wire and re attach all four. Is that a really bad idea, when I’d only be doing it to make the soldering simpler?
Ideally i’d have liked to get the pin/socket out of the connector block to add a longer length to that so I wasn’t soldering so close to the connector block.
General question about splicing in the new wire. Would you just twist them together, or is there any attempt to wrap them back on themselves?
Cheers.
Having been here on my Honda loom for the air temp sensor, I had about 1cm left as well
Usually you need a specific tool to push down the pin and release the barbes so the pin can come back out.
So you need to know the make of connector to get the tool.
You could maybe do it with two very, very small screwdrivers or find tube that will be exact the right size to close the barbs down … Then there is still the chance a barb will break off when pushed back to its postion.
I simply stripped the loom back at least 150-200mm, got some heat shrink the right diameter and fed it over the long end of the broken wire ( far away from the heat ).
Twist the wires together a liitle in line ( not back on themselves )and then flood with solder - heat the wires so solder melts as it touches - but be careful to cool the plug ( triky I know ).
Then when its cold pull the heat shrink over the joint right into the plug covering joint complete. Shrink it carefully on a low heat, take you time. Check its not split etc and then wrap loom back up again.
My sensor still works ok …
Well its done and the car is running again but I don’t trust it. There must be a lot of vibration there and with the solder so close to the connector its only a matter of time before it breaks. Think I need to get hold of another connector with 6 inches of loom so I can do a complete swap and move the splice to somewhere where the vibration can be isolated.
Hi,
if it’s heatshrunk too I would’nt imagine it will fail as long as the solder flowed freely into the copper.
Hi,
if it’s heatshrunk too I would’nt imagine it will fail as long as the soldier flowed freely into the copper.
Men in uniforms eh!