Do you need to remove the disks or is access ok? going to have a pop at this hopefully on Friday night 
I can’t remember TBH. However, did you get any replacement front upper brackets in the box? You may need slightly wider ones as the damper body is too wide for the channel in the bracket on yotas meaning you can’t get the right angle to put the bottom bolt in. I did on mine but they may have changed the design since, so i’d do the fronts first to see whether they fit.
Didn’t need to remove the disks when i fitted the Ohlins on my S2, i’m sure these are no different.
No need to remove the disks. You will need to disconnect the ARB to get enough independent travel for the fronts.
cheers guys, is disconnecting the ARB simple enough?
I didn’t disconnect the ARB when I did mine? Easy to do though, wire brush the rust off the thread sticking out the bolt that goes through the drop link then use a 17mm socket/possibly a ball joint splitter.
Neil, yes I did get brackets with the shocks so hopefully they are the correct ones! It does not sound like too bad of a job so fingers crossed 
Easy peasy then!
In the photo where the top bolt goes through there is a gap between the shock and the left hand side of the bracket, my bracket is wider than the shock and inserts so what fills the gap to stop it moving about?
cheers
Boothy
Ignore that photo, it was just thrown on to see whether it fitted. You re-use the stuff from the oe suspension when doing it for real.
Cool, I’m sure we’ll get there.
Well I had them fitted today and got the car geo’d, I have to say its taking a little getting used to and I have a few questions. The car rides really well on the road but I took it on one of my favorite roads and scared myself half to death, it felt very lively at the back (pretty up and down country road) and I found it seemed to leave the ground alot more. I am running at -12 front and -10 rear (the settings off the hofmanns sheet on the last car) the guy who fitted and geo’d said he felt it could go harder.
So would what I am describing mean I am too soft or too hard? I am no driving god so dont really fully understand what it was doing tbh.
Is it a case that nitron shod cars dont do country roads?
I am starting to worry it could be one bling too far…
Boothy
I think you’ll need to try it on track Boothy. Mine feels awful on the road now but on track it’s something else. Go softer on the same roads, see how that feels. Make a note of each set up so you find the optimum setting.
I’m just learning too mate, you’ll find where you need to be.
[quote=jonnyfox]I think you’ll need to try it on track Boothy. Mine feels awful on the road now but on track it’s something else. Go softer on the same roads, see how that feels. Make a note of each set up so you find the optimum setting.
I’m just learning too mate, you’ll find where you need to be. [/quote]
Hi Jonny,
Thanks for that, I have tried 2 clicks softer front and rear tonight and it does feel different again, I could not have a good play but it felt pretty good on the country road I was on.
Considering the spring rates it rides the road fantastic (probably as well as std) I guess that the stiffer set up will never suit some country roads but I am looking forward to getting it on track.
The rear does feel a bit more playful (could be my crappy driving tho) I really want to get her back on track in a safe enviroment to get further training and find out more about what she’ll do.
Very impressed with the dampers so far tho.
Boothy
The rear rotating a bit quicker could just be a function of the geo. I’ve had a few geo’s and the cars felt different after each one. I think the car will go airborne if your not careful as the suspension doesn’t have as much travel as the oe stuff.
As for settings you’ll just need to fiddle with them and see what suits you/your car.
Hi Neil,
Thanks again for your reply, Could well be the geo as I am told it was well out before and now has the maximum front camber without machining the uprights 0.7deg IIRC
I had ride height set at a conservative 125 - 130, I think the hofmann stuff has more droop than std nitrons (sounds like Pesky) but I guess will still be less than the OE stuff.
Boothy
I’d say you’re good to go there mate…John Schorrocks (JSRACING) told me the same and I’m glad I’ve left it. Master how it is now, don’t go to far and regret it later.