I’m going to swap the front pads tomorrow. I know it’s the rear pistons that need screwing back in, what about the front pistons? Just push them?
Thanks in advance.
Ian
Yep, two fixed pistons so they just push back (no handbrake adjuster you see )… Much better than the ol’ sliding pin
IDG
They ‘simply’ need pushed back in… there are a lot of ways to do this and I asume you don’t have a proper tool, but whatever you do DO NOT LET THE PISTONS COME ALL THE WAY OUT. If you can’t wait to get a proper tool (Uldis posted a link for one) then I’d suggest going to Malafords before you start and getting something - or B&Q where you could get some small g-clamps which would do the job.
Its easy enough after you sus what you are doing.
Ian
It’s easy - if I can do discs and pads, front and rear anybody can.
Don’t forget to take shim plates off back of old pads and put them on new ones - they are stuck to old pads - otherwise new pads will drive you insane by rattling.
Thanks Tone. I have already had the mod on the retaining clip (a small end in the top!) that I understand helps as well.
Rox don’t you only need the tool for the rears?
Ian
Ian,
Also watch the reservoir when you push/wind the pistons back in, get an old syringe to suck the excess out as it rises.
Rox don’t you only need the tool for the rears?
Ian
IDG
No, the tool you refer to is probably the one which allows you to screw the rear pistons back, but long-nose pliers do a better job IMHO.
For the fronts you need to stop the pistons from pushing out-of the caliper by virtue of the hydraulic pressure and the fact that you have removed pads and disc from between them… thus meaning they could move all the way out, this won’t happen as long as no-one pushes the pedal when you have it all in bits, but remember they are under a pushing pressure naturally from th ehydraulic system so they may drift outwards if left long enough – you should really put a piece of wood, (i use a g-clamp) or something in there to make sure the pistons can’t move out. Also, and this is the tool i was talking about…, you need to be able to push the pistons back against the hydraulic pressure in order to create room to fit your lovely new ‘thick’ pads and still have enough room to put the caliper assy back over the disc rotor - like phil says this will put fluid back into the reservoir so keep an eye on the level. Like i said earlier you can do this using the proper tool or some other bodge (like me…) ie a g-clamp or a piece of wood or really wide-jawed grips, but you should try to make sure you push the piston back evenly, so it dosent jam or damage the liner (this is most unlikely IMO).
It’s all really easy but if you ain’t ever done it just take your time (keep a note of the way eveything comes apart and only do ONE SIDE at a time !!.. if you jack th ecar up with bothe wheels off you can compare and contrast…
But like with everything on an exige… just enjoy yourself…
Oh one thing i remembered, if you attach the bleed hose to the nipple and open it whilst pushing the pistons back in it will make it a whole lot easier plus the added benefit of getting rid of any trapped air in the piston.
As Rox says - Just Have Fun
Oh one thing i remembered, if you attach the bleed hose to the nipple and open it whilst pushing the pistons back in it will make it a whole lot easier plus the added benefit of getting rid of any trapped air in the piston.
As Rox says - Just Have Fun
ohhh and if you invert the caliper while you do this you will get more air out… but just be careful you don’t suck any air in…
Thanks chaps!
Do I need to Copperslip the back of the pads? How important?
Cheers, Ian
not really but it is good to do
I haven’t got any at the mo, so I’ll add some in a week or so. It will be after a track day but I guess they won’t bind that quick.
Also, I don’t have any buffers or backing plate on the pads, the piston pushes straight on to the pad. I didn’t really want the backing plate as it can remove feel and doesn’t appear to be causing any problems. Should I be concerned?
Right, one side down, time for the other!
Ian
ps. To anybody following this, here’s an old tip on stopping the bottom pin from rattling - click here
i wouldn’t have any concerns about not having either coppaslip or backing plates.
Job done, and I did enjoy myself! Just need to test them now and then bed them in.
I checked the disk thicknesses with a micrometer whilst I was in there and they’re about the minimum (24.9mm). I’ll get some new ones. However, the passenger side disk happily sits unattached between the hub and the wheel, whilst the drivers side was well and truely welded to the hub. Any tips for getting it off when I come to change it??
Ian
Oh yes, I forgot to mention, I didn’t undo the bleed nipples, instead I undid the cap on the brake fluid reservoir to make it easier to push the pistons back in.
Ian
what’dya eventually use to push pistons back??
ohh and btw… what pads were you fitting?
rubber mallet to remove the stuck disc…
RS14s and they’re fab. They feel much better than the old set I had on there and the peddle feel is improved with more material.
I tried the rubber mallet earlier! I don’t really want to use WD40 as it’s a braking system, even though I’m going to be taking off the item that gets covered in it. Any other ideas, or should I just get a can ready?
Ian
maybe heat it?.. if you keep hitting it it will come off… just be careful you don’t damage the studs…
If you can get some WD40 into the facing then i don’t thnk it’d do much harm… just try to keep it offa yer new pads - you could wrap the calipers in a rag or summat… then when you get the disc off clean everything with brake cleaner and a wire brush.
you still never told us how you pushed the pistons back…
Ah yes, sorry, to be honest, once I’d opened the reservoir it was easy to push the pistons back in with just finger force.
Ian