hi. me project is finished and everythin is finished…its on the road tax mot and insurance.
now im stressed…the suspension is all over the place.
the origional car is an elise. i bought nitron with springs suited for a s1 elise with a honda conversion,. i took advice from nitron on spring rate. i have the exige m sport bodywork fitted, the above shocks and springs and wheels a t dynamic…16 front 17 rear.
all fitted not adjusted i drove the car…pogo stick! going round the bends the front juddered creating understeer. i decided to set the damping at absolute minus to have a startin point. i also noticed the front was really high…the back looked fine but not measured…
i lowered the front to the lowest setting…just before the spring came slack. car back on the floor still to high! like lots to high. went for a spin…the problem is still there in massive amounts…bouncin at the front and all over really. the car needs to be lower at front for a start…springs??? then a geo…i need help and direction…im fed up with it now and have zero funds left…any thoughts would be warmly welcome. regards andy
you are not far away from a lot of the regulars who live in and around bolton/blackburn etc If its drivable bring it over some time, i’m sure its easily fixable…
A good geo specialist will also help out but there is obviously a cost…
Is the back too low ?
Have you got the right springs ? sounds soft at the rear !!
What ride heights are you running ?
Hi, I was hoping you’d finished the job and looking forward to seeing and hearing all about it. I can’t help with technical stuff but Ollie at Phoenix Motorsport, Acrington way would be the man to help. I have number if you want to text or ring,
You need to get a proper geo done on the car mate, it will transform it assuming you’ve built it back up correctly.
I would recommend Phoenix as well Mate. If you cannot be arsed driving to Accrington I am sure there is a TVR guy in Blackpool with all the gear.
How many clicks from full stiff are the dampers? If you hit a bump does it bounce down the road afterwards? If so damping is too soft.
If it’s bouncing over a bump and stopping immediately until the next bump it’s too stiff.
It should hit a bump, rise, lower and back to start point.
What are the spring rates?
Make sure the ride height is 10mm higher at the rear. Anywhere between 100 & 120 at the front is a good starting point.
it will always look higher on elise set up shocks mate as the Exige front arch is a lot higher. The exige ride height must be lower.
bought lowerin beackets from elise parts…will fit them then do ride height… then geo and set dampers…where is this tvr guy???
what about camber…?anks all…ill be in touch no doubt lol
rhs
im running elise nitron shocks and you should be able to get it low enough without the brackets.
the back is fine but the front is way high…u can fit a fist in between the tyre and arch lol…and yes im runnin right size / profile etc.
To get the correct ride height you will find the springs have no preload when the car is jacked up and dampers are at maximum extension - in fact they will be very loose.
Mine were almost coming out of contact with the adjuster ring.
andy, that dont sound too good…if you were to launch out of a pot hole your damper would extend fully leaving the spring to do as it pleases…then as the car hits the road the damper will compress until it hits the spring which could have moved position…therefore not sitting straight in its cuppling…i would suggest u also would benifit from the lowering brackets.
im fitting the following on wed…stud extension, spacers, 3mm and 3 at the rear and one 3mm at the front. fitting the lowering brackets, sorting the ride height, tracking and checking wheels balancin. then when funds are avalible…4 wheelalignment and poss stiffer springs if required.
No worries … the word was “were” …
andy, that dont sound too good…if you were to launch out of a pot hole your damper would extend fully leaving the spring to do as it pleases…then as the car hits the road the damper will compress until it hits the spring which could have moved position…therefore not sitting straight in its cuppling…i would suggest u also would benifit from the lowering brackets.
im fitting the following on wed…stud extension, spacers, 3mm and 3 at the rear and one 3mm at the front. fitting the lowering brackets, sorting the ride height, tracking and checking wheels balancin. then when funds are avalible…4 wheelalignment and poss stiffer springs if required.
A spring that is loose at full rebound isn’t a problem depending on how loose it gets. As long as it can’t move out of the seat it’s okay.
That usually allows for approx 5-10mm of looseness.