Hi Chaps,
So had new bottom end as liners dropped - 200 miles after running in and now needs new head gasket as coolant leaking into 4th cylinder… all covered under warr luckily… BUT suggestion is that I now fit an External Thermostat to control the cooling. Is this worth doing does anybody know? Not sure it would have prevented HG failure though?
Car now covered 700 miles in past 12 months so keen to get it back for summer
Thanks
Yes - the Freelander PRT version is reputed to be the best option
What he said!!!
Deffo worth doing. Don’t forget to take your original thermostat out though.
Great thanks chaps.
Does this work on an aircon’d S1?
Yes I believe it is possible.
I took out my a/c in the end so can’t confirm from personal experience but I did investigate this. Try a search on here.
Ian
Mine has one fitted, i.e. A/C and remote stat. It seems to run at 81 -83 allthe time but fluctuates rapidly between these temps. The Lotuspower boys fitted it.
Mine has one fitted, i.e. A/C and remote stat. It seems to run at 81 -83 allthe time but fluctuates rapidly between these temps. The Lotuspower boys fitted it.
Mine too… no probs at all… 81 deg stable.
Another one here with AC and a PRT. Recently changed the PRT to the 82Deg one as my old one was all over the place and generally in the high 90’s. Now it’s reasonably stable at 82\83
which pipe installation did you do? Can you possibly post details of the exact plumbing you did?
I have one fitted on my car, a/c and the landrover PRT grey 82 deg, all seems fine as it warms up, holds a nice 80 degrees for a while, but then starts running a 85 ish, then even higher, on a longer trip it will fluctuate. Running for a while at 80, then 85, as high as 90 and then back under 80. in traffic, or congestion it shoots pretty quickly up over 90, even as high as 97 I have seen, and takes a while to come back down when cruising again. Strangly, it will sometimes drop and show as low as 76 degrees whilst cruising down the motorway at 80mph.
I wonder if my prt is wrongly connected, or the prt is faulty. either of these could restrict the flow from the radiator when the demands on the system are high, ie after slowing down on the motorway and in traffic.
but is does not explaing these fluctuations in cooling performance.
Airlock? I dont think so. I did the ezi bleed pressure bleed through, then after the themostat is open… 2000 rpm etc. but no difference.
Any ideas?
cheers,mitch.
My Stack occassionally goes walkies between 77 and 82 randomly! But the real temp shown on my Stack water gauge is rock steady at 82… with the PRT 82 thermostat.
Dont worry about the wigly amps… there is no way water can change temp that quickly!!! 
[quote=pete757]
Dont worry about the wigly amps… there is no way water can change temp that quickly!!! [/quote]
Never, ever underestimate the power of a VHPD
The main issue with the K series in the Freelander was 2 fold. Firstly the inlet manifold gasket leaked and as there was no low coolant level light the owner would generally cook the engine. A new manifold gasket would be fitted and then days latter the Head gasket would go. Other issue was the head to block dowel. Rover costed this down to a plastic dowel. This allowed head movement and again a head gasket failure. With both of these replaced and the later head gasket which used the V6 material the K series is a robust engine and does not deserve the reputation is gets.
The thermostat change on the Freelander was to stop thermal shock of the Block. The rad on the Freelander was good for up to 45 deg ambient, this resulted in the rad excessively cooling the water at low ambient temps. The thermostat would open and in comes a load of super cooled water causing a contraction/expansion cycle of the engine. By using the PRT kit this reduces the thermal shock to a much more suitable level by better blending and controlling flow rates.
I am not yet sure if I will convert to this PRT system yet, the feedback form various site seams to indicate owners how have done this have a positive outlook.
Re temp changes on the stack, this could be electrical load, try going from no fan to fan speed 3. This used to put 12 deg on my temp until I found an earth problem. I also seem to remember a good thread on SELOC with pictures of a PRT installation.
my temp does jump up 2 degrees when i switch the lights on…
[quote=mitch]my temp does jump up 2 degrees when i switch the lights on…
[/quote]
So turn them off then! 
[quote=Mr Pesky][quote=pete757]
Dont worry about the wigly amps… there is no way water can change temp that quickly!!! [/quote]
Never, ever underestimate the power of a VHPD [/quote]
I always thought you knew that ‘the truth was out there’
does the replacement disc which replaces the original thermostat play an important role in the RPT install? or is it there only to fill the gap to the O ring.
just wondering if the size of hole or lack of restriction makes a difference to the function of the PRT install.