Ah, balls - step 4 sounds a little extreme… I know where you’re coming from (when my MFRU screwed up I wanted to cry before we found out what it was!!!) but it’ll get sorted and then you’ll be back to many miles of happy motoring again! Sorry it’s being a pain in the aerosol right now - it’ll turn around soon mate, I’m sure 
I am impatient. In fact it took too long to type that.
I suspect that’s my problem
I have spent a couple of hours mostly swearing at the car. However I have fixed one issue. That being the IACV not getting power.
I wanted to validate it was 100% the IACV not working so I taped up the IACV port on the inlet after removing the air filter. Sure enough the car ran perfectly at 800rpm or so.
Next up was a 12v direct feed from the battery to the old IACV that I replaced.
It worked.
Thats good enough for me as now I know that I can use this as a test bench on my loom.
I took off more parts ; the ECU , and started looking at the loom. The IACV loom is a fly lead from somewhere underneath / behind the block, on the side of the driver. I undid most of the tape that was holding this together and lo and behold , a snapped wire.
I put the two wires together with some bodge tape and voila. Working IACV off the car.
I have then soldered it back together, sleeved it and tessa taped it whilst testing at various points with the old, unmounted IACV.
Ignore the voltage here - the IACV is 3 pin. One is earth , one seems to get 9ish volts, the other 12+v
Finally tested the one on the car and voila. A solid, stable idle.
Its now back together however its not perfect. The age old issue I had of the fuse I have to remove in the engine bay to stop the dash staying on is a mystery. I think, and its only a think its something to do with the alarm. I noted that sometimes the immo chirps when I press the plipper to deactivate, and sometimes it doesnt.
I also note that sometimes the car wont start, and a wiggle of the left of the two fuse boxes sorts it out.
However, at least the car is useable now. It was running -5 deg of timing and getting hot idling ( or bounce idling )
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Well done👍Patience paid off
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Well done.
I know who to call I ever get a similar problem.
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01482702111
Ask for Dave.
Great bit of troubleshooting that.
Enjoyed
Spurred on by my recent success I am now looking what the Switch pack module controls
Taken from here : Lotus Elise Switch Pack Module Repair
Sidelights
Dip Beam Headlights
Main Beam Headlights
Daytime Running Lights Control
Rear Fog Lights
Illumination
Soft Touch Button Control
Button Tell Tale Warning Light Drive
Re-Circ Motor Control
Air Con switching functions.
I sort of do have an illumination issue, but no mention of anything to do with starting , or not starting.
The site does mention :
Common faults include relay failure, circuits switching on and staying on and random circuit activations.
I have no idea if the odometer / temp area is on a separate relay to the regular backlights on the dials though
Any update on these before I take the plunge on Alias23 set?
Not at the mo my friend. I would buy the alias23 set. I cant commit to getting them fitted at the mo even if I had them
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I have been out for a Friday night shakedown post my wiring exploits
I can confirm :
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The car goes well
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Nothing is broken that wasnt broken before
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If you see a white mini cooper with blacked out rear windows I went to the right at the junction. He wouldnt have seen which way I went after being 13cm from my rear bumper in a 30 zone
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I also used mine today… fappin’eck it’s awesome! 
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We need a MattUpdate on a thead!
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I think my fuse related dash staying on issues are MFRU related.
The reason I think this is as follows ( please , if anyone thinks this is BS let me know. I will not be offended. Stumped, but not offended )
Symptoms : If fuse R4 is present then the car the dash odometer stays illuminated when powering off via ignition. The backlight is on , engine switches off, but the light stays on
Removal of the fuse yields no know side effects.
This has been occurring PRE aftermarket ECU and it only manifest itself after me owning the car for a while.
I wanted to take the car out for a spin today. Car wouldnt start. Rather than do the usual wiggle the left engine bay fuse I grabbed a long handled screw driver and prodded the MFRU vigorously.
Car started straight away.
I have the following schematic :
What I think this is telling me is :
Fuse R4 - ECU
Fuse R3 - Alternator Sense
This is the MFRU
What I am thinking is something in the Main ECU relay is staying energised.
A side note though is sometimes the alarm chirps when immobilising and other times it doesnt. It never fails to disarm though. CDL etc works as designed
This is now ruled out - the dash unit.
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Tonight I changed over the throttle spring and took off the support that routes the cable throttle , and the spring.
A word of advice. Never , ever , ever take off that triangle. Ever.
I have never sworn so much before trying to get two bolts into captive nuts whilst upside down.
2hours of my life I will never get back
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Hahaha 
All those bags of bolts, are you swapping them all?
Spares.
Inevitably when I remove one I drop it. It then disappears into the 10mm socket void never to be seen again
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Is there any chance you can take the triangle bracket off so that we can get it remade?
It’s only 2 bolts after all??
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Imagine an S1. They don’t even have the holes for the two bolts. You would have to drill them. Upside down. 
It does make the throttle pedal soo much more responsive.
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