I run 17x9 245 tires front, 18x12.5 345 tires rear…
You need to build your car around your tires. Don’t forget wheel travel when the car is set to track ride specs…
A proper fender bulge needs to be done when running 245’s up front…
Question for Greg/Frank…is there really much benefit going for such large wheels??
I want to try and preserve the handling, which is one reason why I thought Lotus couldnt be far out with the sizes on the V6 and concept car. I’m also not running crazy horsepower, so traction not so much an issue.
I’m only running big wheels and tyres because when I was running 195 fronts and 225 rears on my last Audi Elise with 420bhp, it used to spin up the rears all the time even with A048’s fitted.
Now I have 315 rears and traction control I’m hoping that problem will be solved.
[quote=N17VES]Question for Greg/Frank…is there really much benefit going for such large wheels??
I want to try and preserve the handling, which is one reason why I thought Lotus couldnt be far out with the sizes on the V6 and concept car. I’m also not running crazy horsepower, so traction not so much an issue.
[/quote]
The handeling is perfect in the canyons with more grip than you can use safely. I had to slow myself down in the corners due to the incressed speeds the better grip allows…
My last setup was 285’s on the rear with 10.5 rims but I did spin then from time to time with my power on corner exit.
Bigger is always better they say now let’s see how the 245s work out up front.
Tried a few different wheels on the car yesterday and I’m now beginning to think 16/17 is the better idea…there isn’t actually that much clearance in the arches. Just don’t want the wheels to look too small.
I also measured that the wheels need to be 60mm further out at the rear…think gregs gone for 80mm which looks a little better, but not sure with the suspension travel the wheels would clear the rear arches. Might need a lot of negative camber if I went 80mm!
I stuck rears on the front yesterday, apart from the fact they stick out slightly too far (can be sorted with offsets), they don’t allow full lock without hitting the front bit of the sill. Yes low profile tyres will help, but it is very close.
Also stuck TD’s from a k series car on the rear…actually only needs about 30 mm spacer per side due to the differences in yota and rover car offsets.
I use CCW Wheels, these guys can make any offset in any size.
Like I said before you have to build the body around the wheel tire choice.
It’s fiberglass and it’s not painted yet so why not modify it for performance. To do all this and not do it right is just dumb.
Weight transfer over the contact patch will determine how much actual grip you have. This changes with acceleration and braking.
If the vehicles weight does not change, then too wide on the front could cause under steer. Too narrow can cause similar problems.
All depends on weight transfer, if you are trail braking or not in to a corner. Under braking the weight is transfer’d forward on the the front tyre contact patch increasing grip. Turn in off the brakes and all may change…
Under acceleration the load is thrown back to the rear tyres. So too narrow and they will spin up.
But if the rear is too wide, then turning in to a corner the weight over contact patch equation will cause the rear to break away causing over steer. Especially if trail braking.
It is a fine balance if you want to track the car.
Some of this can be dialed out with certain types of Geo and tyre type/compound.
